From: Militch@aol.com Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 23:38:21 EST Subject: COZY: Angle and level measurement tools I will be starting chapter five in a couple of weeks, and it looks like I am soon going to need a tool that allows me to make precise angle measurements(other than level which I can do with a bubble level). Can anyone recommend a tool and a source that has proven useful during construction. Thanks, Peter Militch Cozy Mk IV #740 From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1999 08:15:13 -0600 (CST) Subject: Re: COZY: Angle and level measurement tools Militch said Sears makes a pendulum type of angle measurer that has about a 4" base, and reads to 1 degree, but I would assume its ok +/- 2 degrees. My preferred is make a template, normally cardboard, that is a right triangle with one angle of the desired angle from horizontal (or vertical), with one leg atleast 12" long. Then use your level with the template to describe the necessary slope. The measurements for a template with a 12 inch horizontal leg are determined as follows: 1: The horizontal measurement is 12". 2: For a 30 degree off the horizontal, from your calculater or trigonometric tables (found in many handbooks, math books, etc.), the tangent (tan) of 30 degrees, zero minutes and seconds = 0.577 3: Then the vertical measurement is 12 inches times 0.577 (the tangent) = 6.928 inches. 4: Layout your template by marking a 12" line on your material, on a perpendicular line at one end of the 12", mark off the 6.928 inches, connect the free ends of the lines, and you have you angle. Essentially no cost, and accurate. Can use much longer lengths than 12", and more decimal places. Land surveyors use 8 decimal places for the trig functions. p.s. I have on occasion been accused of being too elementary in comments, but without knowing the audience, I try to err on the conservative. As a suggestion (and not pertaining to this reply), at times if the request for info would include a brief description of the equipment and knowledge base available, the answers could be closer. From: lschuler@cellular.uscc.com Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 08:58:24 -0600 Subject: Re: COZY: Angle and level measurement tools Peter Militch wrote: >I will be starting chapter five in a couple of weeks, and it looks like I am >soon going to need a tool that allows me to make precise angle >measurements(other than level which I can do with a bubble level). Can anyone >recommend a tool and a source that has proven useful during construction. Wicks has a nifty smart level (reads out in tenths of a degree) if you are willing to part with the bucks and want to be dead-on from here out. I'm on chapter 13 and finally bought one at Oshkosh (10% discount) last summer. Wish I had gotten 'smart' sooner; would have made the tasks much simpler. I used the Sears pendulum angle finder for canard incidence and later compared it to my smart level. Missed it by about 0.2 degrees (positive, which is a good thing for safety). From that, I'd say the pendulum angle finder is probably adequate, and certainly less expensive. If you need to, you can eyeball 0.5 degrees using it. I am thoroughly content with the smart level; but then I'm one of those irritating perfectionists. Larry From: "Jim White" Subject: COZY: Digital Calipers Date: Sat, 30 Jan 1999 22:37:18 -0800 One tool I have found especially useful in building my Cozy IV has been a 6" digital caliper. It is like a digital micrometer, that measures down to 0.001". One nice feature is the adjustable zero point. You measure the distance to some point and then zero the reading to find the exact distance between two points. It is also handy for measuring drill bit and bolt sizes. The end tips are sharp and work great as an awl to scratch a mark on fiberglass. I think you will find lots of uses for it. I bought mine from Harbor Freight 1-800-423-2567, item 35384-OCYA. I paid $60, but I noticed the last catalog had them for $49. Jim White N44QT .__ ..\ \ ...\ \ .....\ \ l l l_l ......\__ l l_ < _ ..... ___ )_ > ...l l / l l ...../ / l l ..../ / ._/_/ Date: Mon, 08 Feb 1999 09:06:49 -0600 From: "Joseph H. Hart IV" Subject: COZY: What is a Surfoam plane? What is a Stanley Surfoam plane as Nat specifies for use in contouring the fuselage? What's it look like? How does it work? How much does it cost? Where do I get one? Thanks in advance. Jody Hart jodyhart@communique.net Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 10:10:40 -0600 From: Tom Brusehaver Subject: Re: COZY: What is a Surfoam plane? >What is a Stanley Surfoam plane as Nat specifies for use in contouring >the fuselage? What's it look like? How does it work? How much does it >cost? Where do I get one? It looks like a heavy duty cheese grater. Kinda grey, in color. Various sizes, palm sized, file sized, longer two handed size. You can get 'em at most hardware, and lumber stores. If you don't have one, you need one. From: Cozy7971@aol.com Date: Mon, 8 Feb 1999 21:01:40 EST Subject: Re: COZY: What is a Surfoam plane? In a message dated 2/8/99 9:06:39 AM Central Standard Time, jodyhart@communique.net writes: << What is a Stanley Surfoam plane as Nat specifies for use in contouring the fuselage? >> Its made by the Stanley Company (obviously) and looks generally like a plane from the top. Rather than a smooth bottom with a slot for a blade, the device has a bottom that looks a lot like a cheese grater. You should be able to find one at the local hardware store or home center. Dick Finn Cozy Mark IV #46 Date: Mon, 08 Feb 1999 20:55:42 -0600 From: "Joseph H. Hart IV" Subject: Re: COZY: What is a Surfoam plane? Okay, okay...I'm a dumbass. After the fifty or so ; ) of you who responded with descriptions and the fact that this tool was not some sort of highly-specialized composite-aircraft-construction-specific supertool, but rather a common tool readily available at Home Depot. So...I went to Home Depot to find that I had three of these at home already! Just never matched the description to the actual tool. If the plans (and your responses : ) ) had simply said "bondo-shaping-death-file," I would have known exactly what you were talking about! -- Jody Hart, New Orleans, LA Cozy Mark IV plans no. 648, N359JH (reserved) Chapter 6, see latest progress at: Date: Mon, 08 Feb 1999 17:54:37 -0500 From: "Marc J. Zeitlin" Subject: Fwd: COZY: What is a Surfoam plane? Joseph H. Hart asks; >What is a Stanley Surfoam plane as Nat specifies for use in contouring >the fuselage? It's a tool for scraping/planing. >..... What's it look like? Sort of like a cross between a plane and a large sanding block, but instead of a blade on the bottom it's got a serrated cutting surface, sort of like a large cheese grater. >...... How does it work? Works great. Oh, you mean HOW does it work. It works by "grating" the surface of whatever you're cutting, like a cheese grater does. Works well on foam and soft woods - probably other relatively soft stuff too. I used mine to carve the fuselage corners and the fuselage side contours. >...... How much does it cost? Geez, I forget, but it can't be $15. >..... Where do I get one? Well, in MA, you could go to Home Depot. I'd imagine any large hardware store would carry one. -- Marc J. Zeitlin marcz@ultranet.com http://www.ultranet.com/~marcz/ Date: Tue, 09 Feb 1999 08:24:50 -0500 From: bil kleb Subject: Re: COZY: What is a Surfoam plane? Hunter Welch wrote: > > In addition, Anyone in the process of shaping the bottom curvature and are > experiencing the difference in hardness between wood longerons and the foam > around them, a horseshoe file handles the curvature just fine without > damaging the foam i found the my hand-held electric planer from my sailboard shaping days made quick work (1/2 hour) of the whole shaping bit. (contrary to what the plans say about surfboard building experience being of no use.) [http://www.geocities.com/~kleb/homebuilt/ch07/ch07_19.jpg] actually i lie: neil c explained his use of a homemade milling machine for getting a flat bottom after adding the foam bits that help form the naca duct. it consisted of using two pieces of wood on vertical spacers to span the area length wise. then simply run a router back and forth over the area to "mill" a flat surface, moving the wood guides as necessary. [http://www.geocities.com/~kleb/homebuilt/ch07/ch07_17.jpg] -- bil From: "Michael Schrøder" Subject: COZY: Drill sizes Date: Sun, 7 Mar 1999 20:51:05 +0100 A quick question from Denmark. Can anyone give me a hint about the logic between drill- numbers ie. #12, #30, #10 etc. and their mesurement ie. 3/4", 3/16", 1/4", 5/16" etc. Last time I was in The US, I bought an "american" drill-set (we use metric over here), but the difference between numbers and size is still a puzzle. Mike, Denmark #220 Date: Sun, 07 Mar 1999 19:05:06 From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: Re: COZY: Drill sizes >It's actually worse than that. We have letter drills, number drills and >fractional drills. I don't have the specific decimal equivelants here but will >get them from work and send them if someone else doesn't beat me to it. I've published a number/letter/fractional to decimal drill chart on our website at http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/driltabl.pdf Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o========= < A mind abhors a vacuum . . . > < When deprived of facts, > < our fantasies are generally > < much worse than reality. > ================================= From: "John Slade" Subject: COZY: 5 minute epoxy containers Date: Mon, 5 Apr 1999 13:08:55 -0400 Sorry - my earlier post was not plain text I'll get this down eventually. Hello all, A thought which might be helpful... I was in Dennys the other day pouring syrup on my waffles when I realized that the containers they use would be perfect for storing 5 min epoxy. They have a metal slide which cuts off the flow when you release the trigger. I asked the waitress if I could by a couple (before figuring the tip) and got them for $1 each. Beats pouring from the plastic containers and cutting the flow off with the screw cap. John Slade, Cozy #757 (Ch. 6 - seat brace goes in today). From: Epplin John A Subject: RE: COZY: New Tool Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 08:00:13 -0500 > -----Original Message----- > From: Neil Clayton [SMTP:harvey4@earthlink.net] > > One question...it doesn't have a variable speed control - it's either > 30,000 revs or OFF. Could I use a commercial off-the-shelf reostat as a > speed controller or will that be the same as using s skinny extn cord and > cause the motor to overheat? > > Neil C. [Epplin John A] Dayton makes a AC/DC motor speed control. These are available in I believe 5 amp and 10 amp sizes. Should work great for this type of tool. Grainger sells them, suppose most motor supply housed also would. John epplin... From: "Wilhelmson, Jack" Subject: RE: COZY: New Tool Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 09:31:34 -0400 Neil: You need a speed control for series wound motors. These are available from woodworking tool suppliers. They use a solid state pulse circuit the same as the speed control in a dremel. You should not overload the tool a low speeds however because it's interrnal cooling fan is not operating fast enough to dissapate the heat generated. Jack Wilhelmson N711cz > -----Original Message----- > From: Neil Clayton [SMTP:harvey4@earthlink.net] > Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 1999 8:41 AM > To: cozy_builders@canard.com > Subject: COZY: New Tool > > I burned up my Dremel grinding off a frozen nut on the lawnmower, so I > needed a new one. > > I saw an ad on late-night TV for a tool called a RotoZIP, but they wanted > "3 easy payments of $39.95", but then I saw the same thing in Home Depot > for $80 and bought one....WOW! > > Margie (my wife) calls it a "Dremel on steriods". It's 4 amps (x 120v = > 480 > watts, or .6 HP) vs Dremel's 1 amp. It's supposed to be used as a router > for cutting holes in drywall, etc, but as a maxi-dremel it works GREAT! > > One question...it doesn't have a variable speed control - it's either > 30,000 revs or OFF. Could I use a commercial off-the-shelf reostat as a > speed controller or will that be the same as using s skinny extn cord and > cause the motor to overheat? > > Neil C. Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 08:42:12 -0500 From: Tom Brusehaver Subject: Re: COZY: New Tool >One question...it doesn't have a variable speed control - it's either >30,000 revs or OFF. Could I use a commercial off-the-shelf reostat as a >speed controller or will that be the same as using s skinny extn cord and >cause the motor to overheat? I used a dimmer switch, the kind you put in the dining room for controlling the lights, on a dremel without variable speed. It isn't linear, it starts about half way up, but there seems to be good power there even at low speed. Dimmers work by pulsing the 60Hz coming out of the wall. They will only give a fraction of the full voltage, in each cycle. It is kinda like turning the tool on and off really quickly. Some are rated 500W, and some up to 1500watt. The reostat will take the voltage you don't want and turn it into heat. At 480Watts, you'll need a very expensive reostat. Maybe an autotransformer would be better, and cheaper. Date: Tue, 06 Apr 1999 12:58:20 -0500 From: Michael Link Subject: Re: COZY: New Tool Tom Brusehaver wrote: > >One question...it doesn't have a variable speed control - it's either > >30,000 revs or OFF. Could I use a commercial off-the-shelf reostat as a > >speed controller or will that be the same as using s skinny extn cord and > >cause the motor to overheat? > > I used a dimmer switch, the kind you put in the dining room for > controlling the lights, ---. > > The reostat will take the voltage you don't want and turn it into > heat. At 480Watts, you'll need a very expensive reostat. Maybe an > autotransformer would be better, and cheaper. Light dimmers are not usually suited for motor speed control applications, as they are rated for resistive loads only,(such as a lightbulb). Use of this setup will often result in the dimmer burning up. Motor speed controllers ( try Grainger) are rated for the inductive load posed by the "SuperDremel" , and are generally cheaper than an autotransformer or the "big hoss" of a reostat that you would need. By the way, I have found with regular Dremel tools, that I always run them flat out. I have found that the high speed cuts or grinds with less applied force, and thus gives me better control than running the tool at a lower speed. Regards, Michael Link Cozy MK-IV N-171-ML From: "John Stricker" Subject: Re: COZY: New Tool Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 14:12:41 -0500 Michael, This is a secret that people that do porting and polishing of heads learn real quickly. You don't GRIND with a Dremel or die grinder, I like to think of it more like painting with one. The burrs and bits won't overheat and be damaged and you'll do twice the work in the same time. John Stricker jstricke@russellks.net "I didn't spend all these years getting to the top of the food chain just to become a vegetarian" ----- Original Message ----- From: Michael Link To: Tom Brusehaver Cc: Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 1999 12:58 PM Subject: Re: COZY: New Tool : By the way, I have found with regular Dremel tools, that I always run them : flat out. I have found that the high speed cuts or grinds with less applied : force, and thus gives me better control than running the tool at a lower : speed. : : Regards, : Michael Link Cozy MK-IV N-171-ML : From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 16:56:15 -0500 (CDT) Subject: COZY: Dremel's I have 2 Dremel's, found it time saving to have each set up with a different cutter, stone or router base. Also when one broke, I still could function. Dremel will for about $35 maximum repair or replace entire unit. I found it convient to stock the front shaft, flexible coupling (its really a mechanical overload protector, and switches. The old style rotary speed controls were excellent, when the went to the electronic speed control with slide reostat, things got bad. The electronic doesn't pass the current, and the slightest dust (fiberglass is bad) creates a open circuit. A blast of compressed air and/or TV tuner cleaner many times will help. I too, nearly alway operate at maximum speed. One of the most useful items is a disc sander, Wick's have them in various diameters. The shaft is 1/4". If you have the ability to turn them down to 1/8" they are great. I found some arbors with 1/8" at OSH Flymarket. ALso the scotch brite type pads work well on polishing metals, like gasket surfaces From: SBLANKDDS@aol.com Date: Tue, 6 Apr 1999 22:08:31 EDT Subject: Re: COZY: Dremel's When my Variable speed Dremel end stopped working (from too much pressure), I opened it up to find the plastic connector from the motor to the bur chuck failed. It protected the motor, as designed, from over use. A quick search of the Dremel web site located the parts for just a few bucks, and they were very prompt at sending them out. Good product support. Steve From: RWhitt1245@aol.com Date: Wed, 7 Apr 1999 16:18:19 EDT Subject: COZY: Re DremelI I have a Foredom flexible shaft machine that I rarely use. It came with a variable speed comtroller that is useful for older drills etc. I mounted an old single speed drill in a wooden fixture and use a "rotary rasp" run at low speed to carve angles in foam, places where a standard router wont do Ron W. eracer 346 Date: Wed, 07 Apr 1999 18:40:35 -0400 From: Neil Clayton Subject: COZY: RE: Dremel repair I e-mailed Dremel asking if they have a repair programme....got this helpful mail back from them. Thought I'd share it with the group; Neil C. ------------------------------------------------------------------ >From: "Camp, Jill" To: "'Neil Clayton'" >Subject: RE: Dremel repair >Date: Wed, 7 Apr 1999 10:40:41 -0500 >X-Mailer: Internet Mail Service (5.5.2448.0) > >Hello Neil, > >Thank you for contacting Dremel with your question. For authorized service >repair you may send your tool with a brief explanation to: Dremel Service >Center, 4915 21st Street, Racine WI. 53406. Please include your name, >address and daytime phone number in the event we would need to contact you. > >Once we receive your tool for service it will be on the way back within 3 >working days. > >If you have any further questions please feel free to give us a call at >(800) 437-3635 or get back to us via e-mail. > >Best Regards, >Jill Camp >Dremel Customer Service From: ZeroGCorp1@aol.com Date: Wed, 19 May 1999 07:59:39 EDT Subject: COZY: Neat glass cleanup trick. I should have posted this with the other message, but as I was painfully picking off pieces of small bits of glass off the foam and the surrounding table before breaking out the epoxy, my wife came to the rescue. She brought out the round sticky pet-hair remover brush (a roller with Masking tape) that we use so that you don't take pieces of your cat with you everywhere you go... It worked like a champ! had the glass and the bits of foam off the piece with no effort at all. You can pick these up at any grocery store and it was super-easy. Ray Cronise CZ#770 btw, for the record, she did make the "why didn't you ask me dear" comments. I'm glad she is supporting me on this project. From: "Brian & Susan DeFord" Subject: COZY: Neat little laser level Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 18:06:26 -0700 Folks, I just received a very nice laser level (brand name Infiniter) that will come in very handy at numerous stages of the Cozy building process. The level is 18" long and has conventional sight bubbles both vertically and horizontally. The neat thing is the built-in laser that projects a red line from the end of the level. It is aligned with the edge of the level so you get a true straight edge. Very nice for leveling the wings, fuselage, gear toe-in, and on and on... The laser is guaranteed accurate to .05 degrees or 1/3" at 30 feet. If you'd like to order one, I'd try direct from the factory. The name of the level is the Infiniter Laser Edge Line. The Invoice from the factory had a price of $55 but I ended up paying a markup through a distributor since that is how I actually located it. The factory number is (210) 520-8430 (Texas). Regards, Brian DeFord http://www.deford.com/cozy Currently leak testing the fuel tanks and mounting the engine. From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com Date: Thu, 17 Jun 1999 21:11:16 -0500 (CDT) Subject: Re: COZY: Neat little laser level Was said Check it yourself. Put a shim under one end 0.016" per 18", and see what happens. set a point 30 feet away that is the same elevation, then set the level adjacent to the distant point and same elevation, then aim at the old point and it should be within 5/8" , +/- 0.3" time 2 ways. This is called a peg test and is a common land surveyor's procedure. The instrument should be checked this way at regular intervals, and before and after any critical measurements. Guarantees don't cut the mustard, must verify yourself. From: JHTanstaaf@aol.com Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 13:22:19 EDT Subject: Re: COZY: Neat little laser level I got mine at Home Depot (or maybe Lowes -- I haunt both) for about the same $. Check with your local depot, you might save time/shipping. From: Todd Carrico Subject: RE: COZY: Neat little laser level Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 18:47:31 -0700 While we are on this subject... Have you ever calibrated your bubble level? I checked mine yesterday, and I will be making my own from now on. Take your level. It has four edges that should be "Level". Mark a point on the wall. Place your level on the point and draw a line. Do this for each edge. I had four distinct lines. Which one is correct? I paid extra for the fancy one! You must verify all measuring devices. Now where is my plumb bob? tc -----Original Message----- From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com To: brian@deford.com; cozy_builders@canard.com Sent: 6/17/99 7:11 PM Subject: Re: COZY: Neat little laser level Was said Check it yourself. Put a shim under one end 0.016" per 18", and see what happens. set a point 30 feet away that is the same elevation, then set the level adjacent to the distant point and same elevation, then aim at the old point and it should be within 5/8" , +/- 0.3" time 2 ways. This is called a peg test and is a common land surveyor's procedure. The instrument should be checked this way at regular intervals, and before and after any critical measurements. Guarantees don't cut the mustard, must verify yourself. From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 21:34:40 -0500 (CDT) Subject: RE: COZY: Neat little laser level Was asked Disregard any marks that say bubble centered or level. When the bubble stays at the same position when the level is "end for ended" is level. Note this means same distance from some mark. It will be say the left mark, both positions if you keep yourself at the same side of the level (still holding the left end with the left hand and not crossing the arms) THis may or may not be centered between some marks. If with the bubble centered you get 2 lines, split th difference, thats also level. Note for magnetic directions, old time surveyors were known for whether they shot a sidearm left or right. The holster position on the left or right affected the compass and biased the land survey directions. TO recreate a survey, the later surveyor had to carry a sidearm on the same side. From: Lee810@aol.com Date: Fri, 18 Jun 1999 23:58:43 EDT Subject: Re: COZY: Neat little laser level In a message dated 6/17/99 8:16:37 PM Mountain Daylight Time, cdenk@ix.netcom.com writes: > Guarantees don't cut the mustard, must verify yourself. You never know when the principles of physics may change. Last time I checked, coherent light always propagated in a straight line unless acted upon by a mass about the size of a star :-). Seriously though, as Carl points out you still must check that the laser beam is correctly registered with the level's housing. We had this discussion a while ago before laser levels were available in this price range. About 4 years ago we thought it might be able to use inexpensive laser pointers as leveling devices. We quickly realized there was no guarantee that laser beams were aligned with their housings. I think that a laser would be a great tool, although it has limited applications compared with a bubble or electronic level. For aligning the toe-in, I bought a $10 rifle scope and installed it on a block and calibrated it using my neighbors siding as a target about 100 ft away. There are screw adjustments for the crosshairs you can use to achieve perfect alignment. When I was satisfied that the crosshairs were within a tenth of a degree, I used it to set the toe-in on the flox pads on the gear legs using targets on a wall. A laser would have been much cooler though. Other than that, I can't think of other applications where the need to use distant targets would obviate the need for a conventional level. It sounds as if this level incorporates both bubble and laser techniques so it can serve as double duty making it a very versatile tool. If I were in the market for a level, I'd certainly consider it if for no other reason than to say my plane was built with 'laser accuracy'. Lee Devlin Greeley, CO From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com Date: Sat, 19 Jun 1999 06:15:46 -0500 (CDT) Subject: Re: COZY: Neat little laser level Was Pointed out My uncle, a mason (bricklayer) contractor, once had a 100 foot measuring tape with two 1 foot marks on it. He built a garage foundation a foot too long for my father. Don't trust any measuring device until you have confirmed its accuracy. If in doubt as how to verify accuracy of a device, between the other disciplines and my civil engineering surveying classes we should be able to come up with a way. From: "Michael Anderson" Subject: COZY: Chap. 9: Spot Facing Tool Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 15:35:12 -0500 So where does one get a Spot Facing Tool. I have looked at the local hardware stores and Home Depot, etc. People look at me like I'm from Mars when I ask about it. Thanks, Michael Anderson Cozy #484, Chap. 9 From: Fritzx2@aol.com Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 16:57:41 EDT Subject: Re: COZY: Chap. 9: Spot Facing Tool >So where does one get a Spot Facing Tool. I have looked at the local >hardware stores and Home Depot, etc. People look at me like I'm from Mars >when I ask about it. I recently posted a message about using a hole saw instead of a spot facing tool. I'm not the first to come up with the idea. Both will work but a hole saw cuts less material so the tool doesn't heat up as mutch and you can buy hole saws locally so long as you buy the type of hole saw that accepts a 1/4" diameter pilot rod. After posting my message, I even noticed that Aircraft Spruce has hole saws at a price that was only slightly higher than I purchased locally. John Fritz fritzx2@aol.com Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 08:48:39 -0500 From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" Subject: Re: COZY: Chap. 9: Spot Facing Tool >Date: Wed, 15 Sep 1999 08:47:57 -0500 >To: Fritzx2@aol.com >From: "Robert L. Nuckolls, III" >Subject: Re: COZY: Chap. 9: Spot Facing Tool >In-Reply-To: <3412f065.251010c5@aol.com> > >At 04:57 PM 9/14/99 EDT, you wrote: >>>So where does one get a Spot Facing Tool. I have looked at the local >>>hardware stores and Home Depot, etc. People look at me like I'm from Mars >>>when I ask about it. >> >>I recently posted a message about using a hole saw instead of a >>spot facing tool. I'm not the first to come up with the idea. >>Both will work but a hole saw cuts less material >>so the tool doesn't heat up as mutch and you can buy hole saws >>locally so long as you buy the type of hole saw that accepts a >>1/4" diameter pilot rod. After posting my message, I even noticed that >>Aircraft Spruce has hole saws at a price that was only slightly higher >>than I purchased locally. >> The thing that's REALLY nice about a spotfacer is that the hole it makes in sheet metal is almost burr free and it doesn't grab like a twist drill. What size cutter is everyone looking for? I can get them locally used but resharpened and I could stock them in our webcatalog if there's enough interest. I'm probably going to add a 15/32" for switches and a 7/16" for breakers. Bob . . . //// (o o) ===========o00o=(_)=o00o========= < Independence Kansas: the > < Jurassic Park of aviation. > < Your source for brand new > < 40 year old airplanes. > ================================= http://www.aeroelectric.com From: "dewayne morgan" Subject: COZY: measuring tapes Date: Mon, 13 Sep 1999 22:25:51 -0400 An experienced carpenter told me an interesting thing. Not all measuring tapes are the same so you need to use the same one all the time. To test this , I took two of my tapes and checked them. Sure enough, over a thirteen feet span i was getting close to an eighth inch difference. That may not seem like a lot, but if a person used two or three different tapes the errors would be multiplied. Anyone else heard of this? dewayne From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 17:37:08 -0500 (CDT) Subject: Re: COZY: measuring tapes Was said My uncle, a mason (bricklayer) contractor once had a tape with two - one foot marks, and made a house foundation a foot to big. Geodetic surveyors (land surveyors working on a country sized survey do such things as: 1: accounting for temperature with a thermometer affixed to the tape. 2: suspend the tape a special locations on special saddles. Then with a given tension the catenary (sag curve) of the tape is known. 3: Set the tension applied to the end with a fish type spring scale, then the stretch is known. 4: Calibrate the tape against a known distance. Here in Cleveland, there are a set of points in a long tunnel of a water treatment plant, and in an eastern suburb, in marble floor of a basement of a courthouse. One gets funny looks from the people with business in the courthouse when 5 grubby land surveyors stretch a tape on the floor. These points are set with a tape that as been recently calibrated at the National bureau of standards, numerous readings, then statistically determining the offical length. Date: Tue, 14 Sep 1999 17:42:57 -0400 From: "L. Wayne Hicks" Subject: COZY: Spot Facing Tool vs Hole Saw > >So where does one get a Spot Facing Tool? > > John Fritz says: I recently posted a message about using a hole saw instead of a > spot facing tool. To which Wayne Hicks adds: Yes, several of us have used the hole saw. Check my chapter 9 web page description and pictures. http://www.geocities.com/yosemite/falls/2027 From: Epplin John A Subject: RE: COZY: squeeges Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 14:07:03 -0500 I use the ones you get at the auto supply store, polyethylene I think. Work fine, will eventually crack but the cost is OK. John Epplin Mk4 #467 filling & sanding.... > -----Original Message----- > From: dewayne morgan [SMTP:dmorgan@mis.net] > Sent: Tuesday, October 05, 1999 1:46 PM > To: cozy_builders@canard.com > Subject: COZY: squeeges > > The plans call for a RUBBER squeege. Is there a reason for this or will a > plastic or teflon one work also. > > > thanks > > dewayne morgan > > cozy #815 (just did my first practice layup in chapter 3, oh yeah, oh > yeah!! ) From: "John Slade" Subject: Re: COZY: squeeges Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 15:41:16 -0400 DeWayne, I like the 6 inch rubber squeege. I get mine from Wicks. I have about 3, (one of which is cut in two - perfect for spar caps). When I forget to clean them I just hold them up against my belt sander for a second. I've also tried squeege's from paint and auto stores, but haven't been very happy with them. >(just did my first practice layup in chapter 3, oh yeah, oh yeah!! ) Cool. Regards, John Slade Date: Tue, 05 Oct 1999 15:10:48 -0500 From: "Daniel D. Pettinger" Subject: Re: COZY: squeeges Dewayne, I bought the 6 inch squeegee from Wicks. I used them for my initial lay-ups of the seat back. Someone recommended using old credit cards. I tried it and haven't been back the the 6 inch squeegees. Now if I could just convince my wife to use them this way. Dan dewayne morgan wrote: > The plans call for a RUBBER squeege. Is there a reason for this or will a > plastic or teflon one work also. > > thanks > > dewayne morgan > > cozy #815 (just did my first practice layup in chapter 3, oh yeah, oh > yeah!! ) From: "Hunter Welch" Subject: Re: COZY: squeeges Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 21:06:34 -0700 for the big jobs there are also ones that I have gotten at Home Depot that are used for drywall or wallpapering Bill W -----Original Message----- From: Larry & Jenny Schuler To: cozy_builders@canard.com Date: Tuesday, October 05, 1999 6:02 PM Subject: Re: COZY: squeeges >>The plans call for a RUBBER squeege. Is there a reason for this or will a >>plastic or teflon one work also. >> > >I like the cheap plastic ones purchased at auto supply houses. Difference >is that it sometimes takes a little bit more pressure and few extra passes >since they are thinner and more flexible. Don't have to wait for mail if I >need one.... Available in several sizes. The narrow, maybe 1-1/2" is nice >for corner tapes. > >Larry > > Date: Tue, 05 Oct 1999 21:19:36 -0400 From: Jeff Russell Subject: Re: COZY: squeeges Larry & Jenny Schuler wrote: > > >The plans call for a RUBBER squeege. Is there a reason for this or will a > >plastic or teflon one work also. dry wall knifes or putty knives work great on flat lay-ups. Your hand stay out of the goo. Pressure is much better. -- Jeff Russell/AeroCad Inc. From: "Larry & Jenny Schuler" Subject: Re: COZY: squeeges Date: Tue, 5 Oct 1999 21:58:53 -0500 > >dry wall knifes or putty knives work great on flat lay-ups. >Your hand stay out of the goo. Pressure is much better. >-- Dry wall knifes are VERY nice for spreading micro fill. The wider the better. Larry From: "Capps Family" Subject: COZY: Hand Tools:Perma-Grit tools Date: Tue, 2 Nov 1999 10:05:42 -0600 To All, Wicks sells an indispensable tools set called (Perma-Grit Tools/Sanding Blocks & Strips), these tools are ideal for, wing building, fuselage shaping, windows, arches and curves. I highly recommend their Coarse and Fine sanding Block and Stiple Roller. WICKS Sanding Blocks Part# SB140 Part# SB280 Stiple Roller 58253 58253A Blue Skies; Larry Larry A. Capps #829 cappsfan@ameritech.net Naperville, IL Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 15:48:10 -0600 From: "David Burkes" Subject: COZY: Water Level Home Depot has a nifty one man water level for $25.00. It has a sensor/signal at one end of 25 ft tube. The maker claims accuracy to within 1/10 degree at fifty feet. My personal opinion is that it will beat almost everything out there. It worked well for the pyramids....they're still level...... From: Jim Hocut Subject: RE: COZY: Water Level Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 19:18:55 -0500 > Home Depot has a nifty one man water level for $25.00. You can just use a long piece of tygon tubing, no need for the extra $21.95 worth of fancy stuff. Move the tubing up or down at your reference until the water line is even with the reference. Then just walk over to the other end and adjust whatever it is you're leveling to match the water line there. (Not that I'm against anyone spending money at Home Depot, their stock has been very good to me.) Jim Hocut jhocut@mindspring.com Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 22:39:51 -0500 From: "L. Wayne Hicks" Subject: Re: COZY: Water Level > Home Depot has a nifty one man water level for $25.00. Jim Hocut wrote: You can just use a long piece of tygon tubing. Move the tubing up or down at your > reference until the water line is even with the reference. ---> To make Jim's water level easier to use, I taped yardsticks to each end of the tygon tubing. Instead of trying to adjust the tube, I just slide the yarsticks so that the bubble is on the same number. I've got a picture of this on my Chapter 12 page at: http://www.geocities.com/yosemite/falls/2027 Wayne Hicks From: Muzzy Norman E Subject: RE: COZY: Water Level Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 08:28:12 -0600 I have also heard of people adding a few drops of 'Jet Dry' and food coloring to the water to cause the meniscus (end of the water) to be more discernable. I like the idea of using a reservoir to and tees to be able to establish multiple points at an adjustable height. From: alwick@juno.com Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 06:53:45 -0800 Subject: Re: COZY: Water Level What a creative solution Wayne! One note of caution with water levels. I found mine out of calibration by 1/4" one time. A bubble had developed near the middle and caused bad reading. So I just twirled the water line like lasso and the bubble disappeared. I'm sure my neighbors thought I was crazy twirling this thing in the middle of the street. -al wick Canopy Latch System guy. Artificial intelligence in Cockpit Cozy sn 389 driven by stock Subaru 2.5 ltr 106% complete, Aug 00 first flight sched.. On Mon, 22 Nov 1999 22:39:51 -0500 "L. Wayne Hicks" writes: > ---> To make Jim's water level easier to use, I taped yardsticks to each > end of the tygon tubing. Instead of trying to adjust the tube, I just ___________________________________________________________________ Get the Internet just the way you want it. Free software, free e-mail, and free Internet access for a month! Try Juno Web: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj. From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 17:26:59 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: COZY: Water Level Was said Before and after measurements the water level ends should be brought next to each other, and the match of the liquid levels should match. All measuring devices should be checked for accuracy and sensativity regularly Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 22:25:19 -0500 From: "L. Wayne Hicks" Subject: Re: COZY: Water Level alwick@juno.com wrote: > > One note of caution with water levels. I found mine out of calibration by > 1/4" one time. A bubble had developed near the middle and caused bad > reading. --------> Yes, if your tubing is of small diameter, the surface stiction will cause inaccuracies. Every time I use the water level, I raise one end to allow the water to rock back and forth. If the water bubble doesn't return to same mark, then I look for air bubbles. When it returns repeatedly to the same mark, it's ready to use reliably. Hicks Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 07:55:07 +0200 From: "Rego Burger" Subject: COZY: Spar mounting. Hugh Farrior wrote: I have actually found differences in all 3 of my levels. Any tips on this subject would be greatly appreciated.<<<<<<< If I understand you correctly your spirit levels are giving you trouble. Some time back I had the same problem. I found my one spririt level would go out by a 1/4 bouble if I turned it around 180deg. So what I did was mark a ref. direction on the level with a perm. pen. Then set your primary ref. e.g. longeron with "arrow" pointing to the nose. Then place the level on all other surfaces to be campared in the same (nose) direction. To check the spar for twist lay it face down on your work bench and using the same level arrow facing one way... move level to left wing attach point and check bouble accuracy then move it to the right attach point and check the difference. Don't panic if you see up to 1/8 bouble discrepancy you can always shim the wings latter. Choose the one closest to the centre "level" as a ref. for mounting in the verticle pos. (arrow up) With all this you will find it pretty easy. Good luck mounting your spar. Régo Burger Tel: 0800456789 Fax:+27 41 3631465 South Africa From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com Date: Tue, 23 Nov 1999 17:23:44 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: COZY: Spar mounting. Was said The reference marks (properly called fiduciary marks) are just that. First the instrument (level) must be consistant, the bubble vials must be fixed and not loose. Then by shimming one end of the level, and then end for ending the instrument, when the 2 (the fixed point and top of the shims) points are actually level, the bubble will be the same location in the vial with the instrument in both positions. Then you can mark the bubble location with a premanant marker. This same can be used with those EXPENSIVE electronic levels, when shimmed to read zero, end for end, and see what is says, thats your error. I bought a cheap 4' aluminum extrusion level in a small discount tool store. Before buying, I used a thin dime (US 10 cent piece) as a shim from level and vertical surfaces to check accuracy and sensetivity. The bubbles stayed centered when end for ended, and I could see bubble movement with the dime. Don't need expensive tools to build nice airframes.