From: "Stanley Magill" Subject: COZY: Spraylat Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 06:04:33 -0800 How have others on this list removed the spraylat on their canopy. I have applied warm water and soap to my canopy and cannot get all the spraylat off Stan Magill vaportrails@worldnet.att.net From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 09:42:35 -0600 (CST) Subject: Re: COZY: Spraylat Try adding a coat or 2 of spraylat on top of existing. Try a small area first. Is you problem that it comes off in small thin pieces, if so, added thickness will help. If you problem is bond to the plexiglass, the added may help soften. Careful of using chemicals, some will cause long term crazing of the plexiglass Date: Sun, 03 Jan 1999 23:46:40 -0600 From: Rob and Carla Kittler Subject: COZY: Spraylat for canopy Does anyone (Nat included) have any thoughts on why the inside of the canopy should be coated with spraylat instead of just leaving it covered with the plastic it was shipped with? If coated with the spraylat, is it left on the canopy until completion? Knowledgable input from those who have already completed their canopies would be appreciated. Feel free to reply privately. Thanks bunches Rob From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 04:29:41 -0600 (CST) Subject: Re: COZY: Spraylat for canopy Yes its left on until the end for protection from paint, scratches, dust, etc. I just used a paint brush to apply at least 4 coats. One or two coats could be difficult. leave dry between coats say overnignt or morning and then late afternoon or evening. If its going to be on there for more than 2 or 3 years, would suggest removing and putting new on, have been cases where difficult to remove. From: "Bill Kastenholz" Subject: COZY: Turtleback Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 11:17:30 -0500
    I'm setting up to begin the turtleback construction.  Chapter 18 says to use masking tape
on the foam joints to keep epoxy from seeping through to the outside. Does this tape remain
on the foam?  This doesn't seem to follow building procedures for the rest of the airplane.
 
Bill Kastenholz
wkasty@ix.netcom.com
 From ???@??? Thu Jan 21 22:29:45 1999 Return-Path: owner-cozy_builders@betaweb.com Received: from twc2.betaweb.com (majordomo@betaweb.com [206.43.209.18]) by acestes-fe0.ultra.net (8.8.8/ult/n20340/mtc.v2) with ESMTP id SAA26786 for ; Thu, 21 Jan 1999 18:37:22 -0500 (EST) Received: (from majordomo@localhost) by twc2.betaweb.com (8.8.5/8.8.5) id SAA22051 for cozy_builders-list; Thu, 21 Jan 1999 18:35:20 -0500 X-Authentication-Warning: twc2.betaweb.com: majordomo set sender to owner-cozy_builders@betaweb.com using -f Received: from m4.boston.juno.com (m4.boston.juno.com [205.231.101.198]) by twc2.betaweb.com (8.8.5/8.8.5) with ESMTP id SAA22034 for ; Thu, 21 Jan 1999 18:35:10 -0500 From: alwick@juno.com Received: (from alwick@juno.com) by m4.boston.juno.com (queuemail) id DZH9JY6S; Thu, 21 Jan 1999 18:29:09 EST To: cozy_builders@canard.com Date: Thu, 21 Jan 1999 15:28:38 -0800 Subject: COZY: New canopy latch sys Message-ID: <19990121.152851.-106397.0.Alwick@juno.com> X-Mailer: Juno 2.0.11 X-Juno-Line-Breaks: 3-4,9-10,14,18,20-22,24-29 X-Juno-Att: 0 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Sender: owner-cozy_builders@betaweb.com Precedence: bulk Reply-To: alwick@juno.com X-UIDL: 9713424510573ad361d4c25fc08af2f4 I've gone to a great deal of effort to develop a new way to latch your canopy. Just letting you guys know it's available. I posted 1 email to canard group and got inundated with orders, but never mentioned it to this group. Finally caught up on orders. It eliminates the fuselage access door (no more blue fingers), eliminates the alum brackets attached to your instrument panel. No more torn pants trying to enter/ exit fuselage. It allows canopy to be opened from exterior if pilot incapacitated, also allows back seat passenger to open canopy,. It's attractive, most components are hidden from view. Most important, it uses proven auto technology to replace the 'safety catch' in the plans. Very positive safety with "safe interlock" that prevents accidentally opening the canopy. The exterior of the fuselage now has flush mounted push button LOCK. Best part, it's inexpensive ( $90 complete kit) and I will continue to ship it with no money up front. Everyone I've dealt with has been very honest. You don't like it, then send it back with my $3 shipping. Obviously no risk for you. Downside, after first 3 orders, I will be VERY SLOW to deliver. The parts come from 2 obscure model vehicles (used). Email me privately if interested. PS. I had harddrive crash and lost name of last person on waiting list. Let me know if it was you. -al wick Cozy sn 389, 88% complete. Wiring and sanding. Using stock Subaru 2.5 ltr. Replacing most instrum. with Artificial Intelligence. ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] From: cozy623@juno.com Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 17:54:15 -0700 Subject: COZY: canopy hinge Does anybody know if the hinge is coated with something and I should not polish it on the parts that will show? Jeb From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com Date: Fri, 29 Jan 1999 20:02:12 -0600 (CST) Subject: Re: COZY: canopy hinge My Wicks catalog says the extruded piano hinge is anodized. Usually the anodizing imparts a yellowish tint to the aluminum, though many colors are possible. The anodizing is a corrosion resistant finish. Don't remove it. From: alwick@juno.com Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 18:24:55 -0800 Subject: COZY: Strake leading edge Anyone have a cad image of strake leading edge, or maybe a scanned image of template? I'd like to make sure leading edge is correct. I'm at the sanding point. Seems I no longer have my strake rib templates. Guess I cleaned the garage a little too well. Would sure appreciate it. -al wick Canopy Latch System guy. Artificial Intelligence in Cockpit Cozy sn 389 driven by stock Subaru 2.5 ltr.88% complete. ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] From: alwick@juno.com Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 19:14:00 -0800 Subject: COZY: Canopy strut location I relocated my canopy strut (again). Really pleased with new location. It saves you from having to order special strut...just pick up any gas strut (darned near) at auto parts. It also is positioned such that it doesn't block rear seat entry. It's pretty much hidded from view. I'm using 25" long strut c to center I purchased for $1 from auto store at their sidewalk sale. If I open my canopy to the full 63 degrees from horizontal, you can just see the top of the strut projecting behind the passenger head rest. The anchor point is behind the canopy rib. I just floxed small wood into the seat back. In line with the centerline of the head rest. When canopy is closed, the strut lays horizontal behind the canopy rib. Totally hidden from view. See the pictograph x x <-- strut at open position. x /\ /\ / ; \ head rests-> / \ -------/ ; \----------------------------/ \ ---------- strut-> xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx Well, you get the idea. Actually the strut is adjacent to the top to the seat back. Unable to find any drawbacks to this change. It appears to take around 10 lbs to lift canopy. Just about right. I started out with 2 extra struts. 1 died on my workbench from old age (used). I dripped epoxy on the other when it was installed. Closed the canopy and heard this strange hisssssing..... FWIW -al wick Canopy Latch System guy. Artificial Intelligence in Cockpit Cozy sn 389 driven by stock Subaru 2.5 ltr.88% complete. ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] Date: Mon, 22 Feb 1999 23:05:14 -0500 From: Bill Theeringer Subject: COZY: Canopy Strut Greetings; I also installed a neat little gas spring on the canopy that pivots about a point where the roll over structure meets the seat back, right side. This point allows the spring to push the canopy closed and open and is neutral with the canopy opened to about the 10 o'clock position. One fine day at Sun-N-Fun I couldn't get into my airplane. The gas spring's pressure caused the arrow stock to separate and bowed the canopy out forcing the latches into each other. I almost had to take a taxi home. Be sure this material is sound and that the ends are securely attached to the canopy skin. I later replaced the arrow stock with a piece of rigid aluminum tubing. Bill Theeringer N29EZ From: "Nat Puffer" Subject: COZY: canopy gas strut placement Date: Tue, 23 Feb 1999 08:51:42 -0600 Builders, It sounds to me like Al Wick has figured out some good geometry. I tried several locations and learned a couple of things which might be worth passing on. 1) The gas strut puts pressure on the structure. So don't select a strut that applies so much force that it busts the structure (it can happen). Or the converse, beef up the structure enough that the strut won't bust it. Mostly in the closed position, the strut is trying to push the bulkhead away from the shell of the turtleback, and away from the hinge. 2) The second thing I learned is that if the canopy becomes unlocked and the safety latch doesn't catch it (it can happen), there is a huge negative pressure (it is called lift) above the canopy that is trying to open it and slam it against the strake with buko damage to strake and canopy and prop. It can do this with so much force that it rips away any restraining mechanism. This has happened a few times with Variezes and Long EZs. It has caused a few fatalities, too. With the gas strut, the canopy will open only just so fast, and actually the strut slows it down before reaching its limit of travel. When Jim Patton was flight testing our Mark IV N14CZ, he forgot to latch the canopy, the safety catch (people keep bending it) didn't catch, and the canopy opened all the way up and stabilized in the upright position. Jim flew it back that way and landed with it open. I couldn't believe it! What an airplane, and what a pilot! Nat From: "Nat Puffer" Subject: COZY: Gas strut placement Date: Tue, 23 Feb 1999 09:19:54 -0600 Builders, This is a PS: to my last message on the same subject. One thing I was trying to achieve by attaching the gas spring on the headrest above the shoulder support about 6 inches or so was to get the gas strut to hold the canopy closed, just in case I (or someone else) neglected to latch the canopy. What I learned is that there is so much negative pressure (lift) above the canopy that the pressure exerted by the gas strut by itself wasn't enough to hold the canopy closed. This doesn't mean it wasn't a good idea, just that it wasn't good enough. Nat From: alwick@juno.com Date: Tue, 23 Feb 1999 11:28:23 -0800 Subject: COZY: Re: Canopy strut location Nat said: ....significant pressure on canopy. To add to Nats statement..... I suspect that the pressure caused by the slipstream on a normally closed canopy is relatively insignificant. However, when the canopy is allowed to open in flight, all of a sudden you have an extra wing. The open canopy would be an excellent example of an undercambered wing. Just speculating here, but I bet that baby would want to fly! Instead of adding Fowler flaps, maybe we all could just open canopy on final ;-) -al ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] Date: Tue, 23 Feb 1999 14:53:57 -0500 From: bil kleb Subject: Re: COZY: Re: Canopy strut location alwick@juno.com wrote: > > I suspect that the pressure caused by the slipstream on a normally > closed canopy is relatively insignificant. definitely not true if the fuselage is indeed a lifting body. -- bil From: "Nat Puffer" Subject: Re: COZY: Re: Canopy strut location Date: Tue, 23 Feb 1999 15:07:48 -0600 Builders, Now that we are talking about it, the Cozy Mark IV is wider than the Long EZ, and has more fuselage lift, and that is why we have a slightly shorter c.g. range, a little less canard airfoil, and a little more incidence on the canard. And that is why I tell people that the fuselage width on the Cozy is about as far as I would be willing to expand the Long EZ. I know the Velocity is wider, but the aerodynamics of the Velocity are completely different. Regards, Nat ---------- > From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com > To: w.l.kleb@larc.nasa.gov; cozy_builders@canard.com > Subject: Re: COZY: Re: Canopy strut location > Date: Tuesday, February 23, 1999 4:03 PM > > On 02/23/99 14:53:57 you wrote: > > > >alwick@juno.com wrote: > >> > >> I suspect that the pressure caused by the slipstream on a normally > >> closed canopy is relatively insignificant. > > > >definitely not true if the fuselage is indeed a lifting body. > > > >-- > > > > While working on mine, I assumed that the canopy plan area was a lifting surface, if I remember, > took the wing loading and came up with around 300 lbs uplift on the canopy. Not a very precise way, > but probably an upper limit on the number. If the canopy is slightly open, that number will reduce > considerably as air spills in. I do know that in flight with the front hinged canopy and 6 latches, > and the usual mechanical advantage of the lever, I couldn't relatch in flight. Probably each latch > had in excess of 30 lbs. on it, so maybe that number is close. > Date: Tue, 23 Feb 1999 16:49:34 -0500 (EST) From: "George A. Graham" Subject: COZY: Canopy Lift from Al: > > I suspect that the pressure caused by the slipstream on a normally > > closed canopy is relatively insignificant. > from bil: > definitely not true if the fuselage is indeed a lifting body. My airplane has the canopy hinged in the front. I have flown with it unlocked, it doesn't lift much. It could be that the airstream pushing it down is offset or equaled by the lift, I'm not sure. However, it does add weight to the nose when raising or lowering the nose gear. In my case, I have the latch handle so that it holds the canopy open enough to reach in for the gear switch, that also works nice during warm weather taxi. My point is only that it doesn't take much to keep it closed. George Graham RX-7 Powered EZ, N4449E ca266@freenet.buffalo.edu From: "Nat Puffer" Subject: Re: COZY: Re: Canopy strut location Date: Tue, 23 Feb 1999 16:25:43 -0600 Builders, Don't you dare open your canopy on purpose while flying! There have been people killed that way! Not yet in a Cozy, and I would like to see that record remain unblemished. Nat ---------- > From: alwick@juno.com > To: cozy_builders@canard.com > Subject: COZY: Re: Canopy strut location > Date: Tuesday, February 23, 1999 5:34 PM > > On Tue, 23 Feb 1999 11:28:23 -0800 Alwick@juno.com writes: > > >Bill said: ....slipstream may apply significant pressure on canopy. > > > > Easy to prove one way or the other. Just need to hold onto canopy release > handle while flying. Use spring gage to measure handle force needed to > keep closed. Then just calculate the moment arm X force. Bingo! > > > -al wick > Canopy Latch System guy. > Artificial Intelligence in Cockpit > Cozy sn 389 driven by stock Subaru 2.5 ltr.88% complete. > > ___________________________________________________________________ > You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. > Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html > or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] From: sdbish@juno.com Subject: COZY: Canopy strut location Date: Tue, 23 Feb 1999 19:28:35 EST alwick@juno.com wrote: ..... I suspect that the pressure caused by the slipstream on a normally closed canopy is relatively insignificant. I question this. A personal experience in an Aero Commander Lark 180 (fueslage and wing much like a C-182 if you are not familiar with the Lark), after a slightly hard landing (by my son, of course), I could hardly make the plane fly. After a quick and tight return to the field, struggling to hold altitude, found the hard landing had popped th top of the wind screen out of the C-slot into which it fit. While trying, the top of the wind screen would lift sufficiently to spoil the airflow over the fuselage, spoiling enough lift, the plane would almost not fly. I found this surprising, considering a some 40-45" wide fuselage on a 36' or so wing span. Marvin Bishop ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] Date: Thu, 25 Feb 1999 17:31:16 -0500 From: "Marc J. Zeitlin" Subject: Fwd: Re: COZY: Re: Canopy strut location bil kleb writes; > >alwick@juno.com wrote: >> >> I suspect that the pressure caused by the slipstream on a normally >> closed canopy is relatively insignificant. > >definitely not true if the fuselage is indeed a lifting body. I'd argue that it's definitely not true whether or not the fuselage is a lifting body. Take a look at the Sport Aviation articles by David Lednicer in the past year or two. There are numerous pressure plots of airflow over different airplanes. IIRC, in all cases there is a significant underpressure on the canopy area, due to the increase in free stream velocity needed to get around the bulge in the fuselage (Bernoulli at work again). The canopy WANTS to pop open, one way or the other. -- Marc J. Zeitlin marcz@ultranet.com http://www.ultranet.com/~marcz/ Date: Fri, 26 Feb 1999 08:21:04 +0200 From: "Rego Burger" Subject: COZY: Canopy opening What also helps to pop canopies open is positive pressure inside the cabin...from holes vents etc. The canopy area is almost 50% of the fuselage top and a good few lbs/sq" will pop it up like a jack in the box with the aid of the low pressures outside. What would be nice is to have a slightly lower pressure in the cabin to keep it shut but this almost impossible. Bottom line, whatever the explanation, canopies flying open can be pretty dangerous so take precautions. ( safe flying ) :-) Rego Burger RSA From: "Nat Puffer" Subject: Re: COZY: Acryllic tape Date: Sun, 28 Feb 1999 18:47:30 -0600 Lori, Don't use masking tape or box sealing tape. Look for a thin, smooth, plastic tape that stretches. It probably will have acrylic adhesive. Put some on a piece of plexi out in the sun for a couple of days. If it peels off easily without leaving a residue, it is okay to use. Nat ---------- > From: Lori Cruger > To: cozy_builders@canard.com > Subject: COZY: Acryllic tape > Date: Sunday, February 28, 1999 5:50 PM > > A good sunday evening to all. My husband and I are in Chapter 18 working > on the canopy and are not sure what tape to buy. The plans call for a > plastic tape with acrylic adhesive to use. If anyone can give us a brand > name and where purchase it would be of great help. Or at least tell us > what kind worked for you. If all goes well we should be airborne by > years end. Wish us luck. Thanks in advance for the help. > Lori Cruger > Date: Sun, 28 Feb 1999 23:26:10 -0500 From: "Marc J. Zeitlin" Subject: Fwd: Re: COZY: Acryllic tape Lori Cruger >...... The plans call for a >> plastic tape with acrylic adhesive to use. If anyone can give us a brand >> name and where purchase it would be of great help. I have found that 3M black electrical tape will stick to the acrylic canopy and leave no residue upon removal, even after a couple of years. I believe that this topic has been discussed previously and can be found in the archives, and possibly in the FAQ. See: http://cozy.canard.com/mail_list/ -- Marc J. Zeitlin marcz@ultranet.com http://www.ultranet.com/~marcz/ Date: Sat, 24 Apr 1999 21:53:32 -0700 From: Bruce McElhoe Subject: Re: COZY: Canopy locking and opening Mara, Al Wick makes a dandy canopy latch system. A few months ago he wrote: "I've gone to a great deal of effort to develop a new way to latch your canopy. It eliminates the fuselage access door (no more blue fingers), eliminates the alum brackets attached to your instrument panel. No more torn pants trying to enter/ exit fuselage. It allows canopy to be opened from exterior if pilot incapacitated, also allows back seat passenger to open canopy,. It's attractive, most components are hidden from view. Most important, it uses proven auto technology to replace the 'safety catch' in the plans. Very positive safety with "safe interlock" that prevents accidentally opening the canopy. The exterior of the fuselage now has flush mounted push button LOCK. Best part, it's inexpensive ( $90 complete kit) and I will continue to ship it with no money up front. Everyone I've dealt with has been very honest. You don't like it, then send it back with my $3 shipping. Obviously no risk for you. -al wick" He's at Bruce McElhoe Long-EZ N64MC Reedley, Calif. Mara Liston wrote: >Does anybody have any information or ideas about ways to open, close >and lock the canopy? A while back we saw some pictures of a Cozy >that only had a small key hole in the canopy which locked it and >looked pretty cool so we delayed putting in the door. We are about >to go ahead and cut the door because we can't figure out how just a >lock could open it enough to get any fingers in, let alone unlatch >the safety catch on the handle. > >Ideally, we would want it to be possible for someone to open it from >the outside in an emergency without a key, but we need to be able to >lock it from the outside too. > >I'm not sure there is a perfect and simple system, but does any one >have any thoughts before we cut the door? > >Thanks, > >Mara Liston >N559CZ > From: David de Sosa Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 16:18:02 -0700 I have a friend building a Cozy MKIV who wants to install a forward hinged canopy instead of the side mount plans version. He also wants to reinforce the underside of the canopy with carbon fiber over the foam on either side. He wants to know if there is a reason why the instrument panel cuts through the underside canopy foam or if the panel can be cut flush with the height of the longerons along its edges so that he can lay the carbon fiber straight across the underside foam on the canopy. Would he be compromising strength or any other unforeseen issue by doing this? David de Sosa Cozy MKIV# 080 From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com Date: Mon, 3 May 1999 17:02:01 -0500 (CDT) Subject: COZY: Re: Was asked If I understand, this is the instrument panel that is above the channel stiffener, above the upper longerons. This is valuable panel space, an excellent spot to mount switches, warning lights, intercoms, air vents, etc. This has nothing to do with the front hinged canopy. I would not also decrease the spacing between the two channel stiffeners of the instrument panel, the height is necessary to mount two 3.125" instruments (directional gyro and horizon, and others) above each other. Also radios like this clearance. From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 17:09:38 -0500 (CDT) Subject: COZY: Front Hinged canopy Was said: I have a friend building a Cozy MKIV who wants to install a forward hinged canopy instead of the side mount plans version. I would like to add, he should purchase from Uli Woelter for $25 the front hinged details. All the details are worked out, and it works well! Not a place for the blind to lead the blind. From: "Russ Fisher" Subject: Re: COZY: Front Hinged canopy Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 22:40:26 -0400 Carl Denk wrote: >I would like to add, he should purchase from Uli Woelter for $25 the front hinged details. All the details are worked out, and >it works well! Not a place for the blind to lead the blind. Carl, What advantages have you found with the front hinge? At first glance it would seem to hinder entering and exiting the cockpit, not to mention you have to make two sets of latches. Are these latches interlinked or do you have an access door on each side of the fuselage? Russ Fisher From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com Date: Wed, 5 May 1999 04:04:52 -0500 (CDT) Subject: Re: COZY: Front Hinged canopy Was asked: >What advantages have you found with the front hinge? Passenger and pilot can get in or out independent of the other, better ventilation on the ground while protecting from light rain (on the safety catch the aft is open several inches), better access to inside of cabin and instrument panel. At first glance it >would seem to hinder entering and exiting the cockpit, Same or easier, in particular for passenger, have slide out step just above lower longeron and aft of front seat back. Everyone that has flown in, has liked. >have to make two sets of latches. Yes I bought from brock. Are these latches interlinked Yes, alum. tube plus same arms as end of control torque tubes behind firewall. Not difficult to make. >have an access door on each side of the fuselage? One, one pilot side From: Todd Carrico Subject: COZY: Carbon Fiber Date: Tue, 4 May 1999 14:40:11 -0700 I have heard of Berkut buidlers having problems installing antenea in the wings, winglets, etc. because they are skinned with carbon fiber. Your friend may run into this if he plans to put his ELT, Comm(esp. hand held comm) I don't know for sure if it affects GPS, but everything else seems to. I imagine that the Berkut doesn't have Carbon fiber in the Fuse because of these reasons, but I can only speculate. tc -----Original Message----- From: David de Sosa To: cozy_builders@canard.com Sent: 5/3/99 4:18 PM I have a friend building a Cozy MKIV who wants to install a forward hinged canopy instead of the side mount plans version. He also wants to reinforce the underside of the canopy with carbon fiber over the foam on either side. He wants to know if there is a reason why the instrument panel cuts through the underside canopy foam or if the panel can be cut flush with the height of the longerons along its edges so that he can lay the carbon fiber straight across the underside foam on the canopy. Would he be compromising strength or any other unforeseen issue by doing this? David de Sosa Cozy MKIV# 080 From: Wayne Hicks Subject: COZY: Raising Canopy/turtleback Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 14:43:20 -0400 For those of you who raised the turtleback and canopy, can you confirm the following assumptions: 1. Leave the aft most point of the turtleback alone so it conforms to the upper cowling? 2. Raise the forward-most point of the turtle back 1 inch, or alternately, make the jigs correspondingly one inch higher? 3. Canopy is 1 inch higher the entire length? ____________________________________________________ L. Wayne Hicks Space Operations Division Sr. Engineer Zel Technologies, LLC 757-865-0900 phone 3221 North Armistead Ave 757-865-8960 fax Hampton, VA 23666 http://www.zeltech.com Date: Mon, 10 May 1999 22:51:39 -0400 From: "Marc J. Zeitlin" Subject: COZY: Raising Canopy/turtleback Wayne Hicks asks; >1. Leave the aft most point of the turtleback alone so it conforms to the >upper cowling? Yep. >2. Raise the forward-most point of the turtle back 1 inch, or alternately, >make the jigs correspondingly one inch higher? Yep. >3. Canopy is 1 inch higher the entire length? Yep. Actually, I tried to raise it as much as I could while still getting a smooth transition to the turtleback. I might have gotten another 1/2" or so near the front. It will depend upon exactly how big the blown canopy is, and how much extra material there is around the edges. -- Marc J. Zeitlin mailto:marcz@ultranet.com http://www.ultranet.com/~marcz/ From: "gdavis" Subject: Re: COZY: Raising Canopy/turtleback Date: Thu, 13 May 1999 17:02:33 -0700 Other food for thought... Besure to leave about 3/16 inch space above the closing surfaces to install a rubber seal. ACS stocks a V-seal burt rcomended for the EZ works great but you need the space for it. I did not leave enougt room and found it dificult to seal. But In Arizona you need some cooling air any way!!! Gene Davis Cozy MK4 N42CZ -----Original Message----- From: Wayne Hicks To: Cozy Builders Date: Monday, May 10, 1999 12:11 PM Subject: COZY: Raising Canopy/turtleback > >For those of you who raised the turtleback and canopy, can you confirm the >following assumptions: > >1. Leave the aft most point of the turtleback alone so it conforms to the >upper cowling? > >2. Raise the forward-most point of the turtle back 1 inch, or alternately, >make the jigs correspondingly one inch higher? > >3. Canopy is 1 inch higher the entire length? > > >____________________________________________________ >L. Wayne Hicks Space Operations Division >Sr. Engineer Zel Technologies, LLC >757-865-0900 phone 3221 North Armistead Ave >757-865-8960 fax Hampton, VA 23666 >http://www.zeltech.com > Date: Mon, 07 Jun 1999 14:42:49 -0700 From: Eric Westland Subject: COZY: Turtle Deck Gutter With the recent talk of keeping rain out of the plane, I'm still looking for the easiest way to catch the rain that will inevitably make it's way down the turtle back gutter into the rear seat area. I built it per plans and if you have too, you know what I mean about the channel just stopping. I knew it would not work too well here in the Seattle area where all it does is rain or get ready to rain, but always just figured I would see a better way and fix it later. Now that I'm essentially done, I'm still looking for that elegant solution to channel the water away. If you have an idea or a photo you could e-mail me, I'd be most appreciative. TIA, Eric Westland Mukilteo, WA From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com Date: Mon, 7 Jun 1999 17:11:54 -0500 (CDT) Subject: Re: COZY: Turtle Deck Gutter My front hinged canopy hasn't leaked one drop that I could detect. I get a small quantity in the elevator tubes with the MKIV offsets. Installed gutters with drain holes, but still get a little water after a rain on the ground. Haven't noticed any water in flight though. Location was verified with a hose while washing the plane. From: "Chris Byrne" Subject: COZY: Canopy Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1999 10:08:38 +1000 Builders Has anyone had any experience with the "green" canopy from Aircraft Plastics. They offer a clear, green, or smoke tint. Archives mention the smoke tint but not green. Am wondering how dark it is. Thanks Chris Byrne Sydney Date: Wed, 16 Jun 1999 19:21:48 -0400 From: "L. Wayne Hicks" Subject: Re: COZY: Canopy Chris Byrne wrote: > > Builders > > Has anyone had any experience with the "green" canopy from Aircraft > Plastics. They can probably send you some 2"x2" samples. I've got the light and medium smoke samples in about a week. Wayne Hicks From: "Nat Puffer" Subject: Re: COZY: Escape Window Date: Sun, 18 Jul 1999 18:49:02 -0000 Builders, It is good practice to carry a plexiglass breaking tool along side the seat or in the pocket next to you. I have a heavy duty survival knife with saw teeth on one edge of the blade. Nat ---------- > From: Gunrider@aol.com > To: cozy_builders@canard.com > Subject: COZY: Escape Window > Date: Sunday, July 18, 1999 5:29 PM > > I remember discussion on a window to kick out. > I am assuming less flox,no plexi sanding, cutting outer skin from the inside > really thin. > Any better ideas? > Hugh Farrior From: Gunrider@aol.com Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 10:34:19 EDT Subject: COZY: Split My CANOPY! Yes I actually did it... Things were going so well, six coats of spraylat, the tracing and the cutting. All of a sudden - pop! An eight inch split for the copilot. I was using a 20tpi jig blade which was working well. I believe I let too long a piece of plastic hang during cutting. I thought my dremel wouldn't be strong enough to cut the plastic. Wrong. Precisely what Jeff at Aeroplane plastics recommends - also leaving uncut "tacks" until most cutting is done. Then carefully finishing and sanding. I was pleasantly surprised when Jeff gave me a hefty discount when ordering the new canopy. A nice gesture for a bonehead move. Hugh Farrior Canopy then strakes. From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 20:06:26 -0500 (CDT) Subject: Re: COZY: Split My CANOPY! I used the dremel with the reinforced abrasive circular saws and it worked just fine. Since there is no table or other item to slide on the plexi, it can't get scratched. The dremel has more than enough power, but not enough to jerk your hand and the cutter to a spot not wanted. From: Epplin John A Subject: RE: COZY: Canopy Question Date: Thu, 22 Jul 1999 13:28:28 -0500 As I remember over an inch. You still may not get he kink completely out, may need to add some micro onto the plexi. John Epplin Mk4 #467 > -----Original Message----- > From: Wayne Hicks [SMTP:WHicks@SPACETEC.Zeltech.com] > Sent: Thursday, July 22, 1999 7:44 AM > To: Cozy Builders > Subject: COZY: Canopy Question > > > For those who've installed their canopies, how much did you have to cut > into > the canopy edge at the instrument panel to remove the kink out of where > the > top aft canopy joins the turtleback? Half-inch? one inch? What? > > Thanx! > > ____________________________________________________ > L. Wayne Hicks Space Operations Division > Sr. Engineer Zel Technologies, LLC > 757-865-0900 phone 3221 North Armistead Ave > 757-865-8960 fax Hampton, VA 23666 > http://www.zeltech.com From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com Date: Thu, 22 Jul 1999 21:15:08 -0500 (CDT) Subject: Re: COZY: Canopy Question On 07/22/99 08:43:52 you wrote: > > >For those who've installed their canopies, how much did you have to cut into >the canopy edge at the instrument panel to remove the kink out of where the >top aft canopy joins the turtleback? Half-inch? one inch? What? > If, I understand the question. The top aft of the plexiglass where cut is aft of the plexiglass highpoint and headed downward, where the turtleback is convex and going down as you head forward. Use a straight edge parallel to the fore/aft centerline. With the straightedge on the plexi and turtleback, use a 0.035" feeler gauge, tucked between the straightedge and plexi, mark the forward edge of the feeler as the straightedge is moved parallel sideways, until that line joins the aft edge of the plexi including the 1" overlap of glass. This line is the edge of 2 plys BID. Fill the area aft, allowing bond 1" to the plexi with a light weight filler and 2 plys BID on top that, lapping the turtleback glass. The scalloped top is not according to a particular template, but fairing the turtleback to a smooth surface. Its possible to heat the turtleback flange with a heat gun and bend it for a better match of contour. From: Wayne Hicks Subject: COZY: Chapter 18 Windows Date: Thu, 12 Aug 1999 11:44:35 -0400 I'd like to shake the hand of the fellow that wrote the rear window placement instructions used in the Chapter 18 FAQ (Question 18.8). I was getting frustrated trying to locate the cut-outs on my own...then I remembered the FAQ's. The 18.8 method is much simpler. Thanks for you and this forum! ____________________________________________________ L. Wayne Hicks Space Operations Division Sr. Engineer Zel Technologies, LLC 757-865-0900 phone 3221 North Armistead Ave 757-865-8960 fax Hampton, VA 23666 http://www.zeltech.com Date: Sun, 12 Sep 1999 10:42:00 +0200 From: Jannie Versfeld Subject: COZY: Canopy Trim Hi all fellow canardians, It has been quite a while since I last requested some help, bute here goes.... I have trimmed my canopy and fitted it to the turtle back. I have masked the deck trim line in accordance with the plans templates at FS 41, 50, 60 & 70. Question #1: Does the templates match the "newer" raised FS28 bulkhead ... the one that has about 3/4"-1" higher curvature than in the plans full scale drawing? Question #2: The plans state that the canopy frame must be shaped to a thickness of aprox. 3/4" from about 2" of the outside edge. does this mean that the plexiglass is embedded 3/4" into the canopy frame? Do I leave the final trimming of the plexiglass until I start work on the inside or do I trim it prior to laying up the first ply of UNI before I start fiiting th urethane foam around the canopy? I hope I make sense guys and thanks in advance for the help. Jannie Versfeld Cozy Buider # 673 Maybe 6 months from take-off !! Date: Thu, 16 Sep 1999 08:23:55 -0400 From: "Marc J. Zeitlin" Subject: Fwd: COZY: Canopy Trim Jannie Versfeld asks; >Does the templates match the "newer" raised FS28 bulkhead ... the one >that has about 3/4"-1" higher curvature than in the plans full scale >drawing? It's not dependent on F28 - i.e. you can make the curvature and shape anything you want, within reason. Once you get the foam in place and start shaping, you'll see what I mean. >..... does this mean that the >plexiglass is embedded 3/4" into the canopy frame? Yes. You end up with a wraparound on the inside, and a 3/4" deep connection on the outside that gets filled. >Do I leave the final trimming of the plexiglass until I start work on >the inside or do I trim it prior to laying up the first ply of UNI >before I start fiiting th urethane foam around the canopy? I believe I trimmed it prior to the foam fitting, but it's certainly not inconceivable to do it later after flipping the canopy. -- Marc J. Zeitlin mailto:marcz@ultranet.com http://www.ultranet.com/~marcz/ From: Epplin John A Subject: COZY: Head rests & canopy gas spring Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 12:43:54 -0500 Is there a problem with putting both headrests on the canopy? Are they considered in the roll-over protection? What seems to be the best geometry and size for the gas spring? Canopy frame is built to plans, nothing done for headrests yet. Would appreciate some input here. John Epplin Mk4 #467 From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com Date: Mon, 20 Sep 1999 16:25:51 -0500 (CDT) Subject: Re: COZY: Head rests & canopy gas spring I have slots on both of the faces facing the centerline. THey are an ideal spot to store flight guides for quick access to airport info including control zone shapes, radio freq.s, runway numbers, etc. Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 09:26:10 -0700 From: George Krosse Subject: COZY: Spraylat removal. The spraylat has been on my canopy for 5 years. I understand that it can be removed by adding a few more coats to the canopy and then just peel it off. Has any one come up with a solution that will allow the removal without another application of spraylat? I am about to try denatured alcohol. George Krosse Cozy Plans #433 gtk4923@pacbell.net gtk4923@juno.com Phone & Fax 949/644-7099 Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 18:22:40 -0400 From: "L. Wayne Hicks" Subject: COZY: Re: Spraylat removal. George Krosse wrote: Has any one come up with a solution that will allow the removal (of spraylat) without another application of spraylat? I am about to try denatured alcohol. -----------> Yessiree! It's well-documented in the Cozy FAQ's: http://cozy.canard.com/mail_list/cozy-faq.html For the FAQ-impaired :-) , I've included it here: 18.5 - What is the best way to remove Spraylat coating or tape residue from the canopy? A commercial product called "Goof-Off" is the best for removing tape residue. It is compatible with acrylics. Kerosene or avgas can be used in a pinch. Do not use alcohols or glass cleaners as these will cause damage to the canopy over time. Spraylat can be softened and removed easily by applying one or two new coats, then peeling it off as directed. Wayne Hicks Cozy IV #678 Chapter 18 http://www.geocities.com/yosemite/falls/2027 Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 17:42:11 -0700 From: George Krosse Subject: COZY: Spraylat removal Thanks for all the input for removing the spraylat. I had known about applying several more coats of spraylat would help in spraylat removal, but since I only wanted to remove enough so as to do a little glassing on the canopy, I was reluctant to get the spray gear out to make the application
I had used word search on the archives and found no reference to spraylat. 18.5 didn't show up.
Before I used the rubbing alcohol, I experimented with various tapes. Viola, Scotch brand brown mailing tape, when applied and allowed to set for a few minutes, pulled off and brought all the spraylat with it. Mission accomplished.
George Krosse
Cozy Plans #433
Structure done for 5 years, still filling and sanding. From ???@??? Fri Oct 29 06:34:31 1999 Return-Path: owner-cozy_builders@betaweb.com Received: from twc2.betaweb.com (majordomo@betaweb.com [206.43.209.18]) by acestes-fe0.ultra.net (8.8.8/ult/n20340/mtc.v2) with ESMTP id OAA05603 for ; Wed, 27 Oct 1999 14:32:29 -0400 (EDT) Received: (from majordomo@localhost) by twc2.betaweb.com (8.8.5/8.8.5) id NAA31523 for cozy_builders-list; Wed, 27 Oct 1999 13:48:09 -0400 X-Authentication-Warning: twc2.betaweb.com: majordomo set sender to owner-cozy_builders@betaweb.com using -f Received: from mail1.mia.bellsouth.net (mail1.mia.bellsouth.net [205.152.16.13]) by twc2.betaweb.com (8.8.5/8.8.5) with ESMTP id NAA31518 for ; Wed, 27 Oct 1999 13:48:03 -0400 Received: from bellsouth.net (host-216-77-208-116.fll.bellsouth.net [216.77.208.116]) by mail1.mia.bellsouth.net (3.3.5alt/0.75.2) with ESMTP id NAA22303 for ; Wed, 27 Oct 1999 13:43:51 -0400 (EDT) Message-ID: <38174876.BEB5A11A@bellsouth.net> Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 13:46:41 -0500 From: Bulent Aliev X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.7 (Macintosh; I; PPC) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 CC: Cozy_builders@canard.com Subject: Re: COZY: Spraylat removal. References: <381727A2.24ECFF85@pacbell.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Sender: owner-cozy_builders@betaweb.com Precedence: bulk Reply-To: Bulent Aliev X-UIDL: 8659c4649a812a79a141b1966c8939b4 George Krosse wrote: > > Has any one come up with a solution that will allow the removal > without another application of spraylat? I am about to try denatured > alcohol. I would stay away from fast evaporating solvents. They may over cool the area and cause cracks. I watched a $5000 custom boat window crack after the installer wiped access caulking with solvent. Bulent From: "Russ Fisher" Subject: Re: COZY: Spraylat removal. Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 19:53:24 -0400 George, George Mesiarik of LP Aero Plastics ( windshields@lpaero.com ) held a forum at Osh dealing specifically with acrylic windshields. The same question was posed to him and he said that he had never had a problem removing spraylat even after several years. The trick, he said is to make sure that you use a thick enough coat in the first place. Although this won't help you now, maybe someone who has not yet purchased their canopy can benefit. You may want to email him for further help - he seemed quite open to questions. LP Aero markets a number of chemicals for use on acrylic. Their phone is (724) 744-4448. Russ Fisher -----Original Message----- >Has any one come up with a solution that will allow the removal >without another application of spraylat? I am about to try denatured >alcohol. > >George Krosse Date: Wed, 27 Oct 1999 13:20:39 -0700 From: hrogers@SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Howard Rogers) Subject: COZY: Re: >The spraylat has been on my canopy for 5 years. I understand that it >can be removed by adding a few more coats to the canopy and then just >peel it off. >Has any one come up with a solution that will allow the removal >without another application of spraylat? I am about to try denatured >alcohol. >George Krosse George, I am wearing out on this subject, but here goes, one more time! Do *NOT*, under any circumstances *EVER* use alcohol (any type) on acrylic. That includes Windex. You might even think you got away with it, at the time you do it, but it will craze later. I have the same problem to deal with at some point, and I'm not sure it won't peel right off, even without any extraordinary measures, but if you must try a solvent, kerosene is approved by the makers of acrylic windshields and canopies. No garauntee it will work, but at least it won't HURT. --Howard Rogers A&P 2005148 Date: Sat, 30 Oct 1999 22:40:27 -0400 From: "Edmond A. Richards" Subject: COZY: Spraylat removal. >>George Krosse wrote: The spraylat has been on my canopy for 5 years. << George, as others have already posted don't use any solvents on the plexy. Adding extra coats of spraylat works great! My canopy sat for more than 3 years before I tried to peal the stuff off. I could see it was going to take hours pealing off little flakes. I painted about 4 or 5 more coats on, sort of just slapping it on with a brush and letting it dry before the next coat. When it finally dried I was able to peal the whole "skin" off in one piece. Many thanks to the person who originally posted this discovery, it saved me many hours and much aggravation. Ed Richards Cozy Mark IV #88 Date: Tue, 09 Nov 1999 08:25:04 +0200 From: "Rego Burger" Subject: COZY: Side windows - Lining This is a friendly warning to slow builders like me. After a few years of standing in a shed that has large temp. changes the plastic lining on my windows has degraded to a point that I can't peel it off.... rats... I can't use solvent to try to remove it as this will destroy my windows so I have been trying to "scrape" it off with a plastic squegee and a hair dryer to elevate the temp to soften it a bit. It took 3 hrs to remove it on one with some nice scratches on my "new" windows. So I will need to try and buff these scratches out. Any ideas welcome. Régo Burger Tel: 0800456789 Fax:+27 41 3631465 South Africa From: Militch@aol.com Date: Tue, 9 Nov 1999 08:36:23 EST Subject: Re: COZY: Side windows - Lining In a message dated 11/9/99 8:10:34 AM, BurgerR@telkom.co.za wrote: >After a few years of standing in a shed that has large temp. changes the plastic >lining on my windows has degraded to a point that I can't peel it off.... rats... > I can't use solvent to try to remove it as this will destroy my windows so I have >been trying to "scrape" it off with a plastic squegee and a hair dryer to elevate >the temp to soften it a bit. > Others have addressed this recently. They report that the best method is to paint on a very thick layer of spraylat and let it set up. That layer and the one underneath will then peel off ok. Regards Date: Tue, 09 Nov 1999 13:28:10 -0700 From: hrogers@slac.stanford.edu (Howard Rogers) Subject: Re: COZY: Side windows - Lining Rego, To get scratches out, you will need some wet/dry sandpaper of descending grit. How coarse you start will depend on how deep your scratches are. Assuming you can get them out with 320 grit, you can start there. Use plenty of water, sand the smallest area you can to blend out the scratch, and rub primarily one direction (make straight sanding scratches). Wash all grit away throroughly and go to 400 grit paper, rubbing in a different direction and covering a slightly larger area. When all the 400 scratches are gone, progress to 600 grit, then to 1000 (actually, 600 is probably far enough, but the 1000 will only take a small amount of extra effort. Each new grit will cover a bit more area than the preceding grit. At this point, I would use a special buffing wheel, but it is possible to rub out the final polish by hand. Perhaps someone on the list can furnish you with the name of an appropriate product. If you use a wheel, it should turn at a fairly slow rpm. It should be absolutely clean, and it should NEVER be used for anything but plastic. One touch to metal, and it is no good for plastic anymore. A place like Tap Plastics here, or your equivilent there, can furnish the right type of wheel and buffing compound. They are not expensive. Be careful not to get the plastic too hot when buffing. Use short bursts and wait, if you have to. The whole process is surprisingly easy, once you get into it. Howard Rogers A&P 2005148 From: "Ugolini, Nick (Efdsouth)" Subject: RE: COZY: Side windows - Lining Date: Fri, 12 Nov 1999 12:09:08 -0500 The appropriate product is 3M micro compound rubbing compound, and follow that with 3M Finesset (sp?) polishing compound. Actually, I first started using the products to buff out polyurethane paint. You sand using 1300 grit sand paper followed by micro compound (cloth disk) then use Finesset (with a sponge disk). Some dummy (who will remain nameless) didn't properly cover his canopy when spray painting in his shop. I used the products to buff out the fine mist of paint from my canopy with terrific results. It also pulled out all the very fine scratches that happen over time with paper towels. Now when ever I clean my canopy, I use some Finesset on a tee shirt and water. If you need the exact product numbers/names send me a email. Nick ....................................... To get scratches out, you will need some wet/dry sandpaper of descending grit. How coarse you start will depend on how deep your scratches are........ At this point, I would use a special buffing wheel, but it is possible to rub out the final polish by hand. Perhaps someone on the list can furnish you with the name of an appropriate product. Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 11:50:10 -0500 From: "Johnson, Phillip" Subject: RE: COZY: Re: Retractable Main Landing Gear >Tom Ellis writes: > >Noticed the above comment in your last post. Several of us are working on >hinging our canopies forward. I have the Cozy Classic plans, as well as >several others. Would be interested in hearing what you changed to improve >the installation. Of course, mine still might be quite different as I am >using the Lancair canopy. > >end< > >I used the words like the Cozy Classic only because many people have >interpreted the phrase "forward hinging" to mean that the hinges are at the >back like the Berkut. I have the hinges ate the front like the Cozy Classic. > >There are two 0.5" bronze bushings installed in the corner between F28 and >the upper longerons. I imbedded them in a block of Spruce before glassing >them in place. Two composite hinges curl around the fuselage top and attach >to the canopy I guess I need to do a drawing some time to explain the >concept. The canopy is a cozy canopy (bubble) with an additional four inches >in the hoop of the (bubble). Airplane plastics made a special at no extra >cost. Only the section over the front seats hinges forwards and access to the >rear seats is through a Gull Wing door arrangement. It's really difficult to >describe without drawings and photographs. > >Phillip Johnson > Date: Thu, 18 Nov 1999 22:28:51 -0600 From: vance atkinson Subject: COZY: semi structrial mods Modifications, I am here to tell you guys the best and lightest, easiest canopy is the current one called out in the plans. In addition to building 3 stock ez type canopies, I have helped build a cozy "slide forward" type. And, a forward hinge type, and, a gull wing door type. Each builder had his reasons for these canopies. As far as I could see they all had more drawbacks than the stock unit. I helped Al Yarmy build his Cozy and he insisted on the forward sliding unit. Several years later when a new owner wanted to fly in it and have me check him out in it, the unit would not track, wobbled incessantly and left a one inch gap in the back and numerous gaps here and there, and virtually, unlockable. The only course was to convert back to the stock unit. I helped build a forward hinged opening unit on a European Cozy. This unit unlike Als, was very sturdy, and weighed 50% more than the stock unit, and was a royal pain to boot. For what we have now is the simplest and lightest weight of all the combos. Building a hatch from scratch is a LOT of work, probably as much as the entire stock canopy. And, you need some pretty good latches for hatches. Catchy isen't it? Steve Drybread has designed, manufactured, and installed some very nice retractable main gear. But Last year Herb Sanders clean, stock Long EZ, with a stock (but tuned) 160 HP Lyc. with fixed gear, beat Steves magnificent machine in a head to head race in california. Sometimes it is the simple stuff that works the best. It takes a LOT of work to complete one of these aircraft and if you make a bunch of complex changes, that will double or triple your energy expended, you need to make sure what your doing is going to be worth it, because these type of projects will certainly take its toll in building time, money and energy. Vance Atkinson EAA Tech, Flt Advisor, been there done that. (and survived) Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 14:49:57 -0500 From: Paul Krasa Subject: Re: COZY: So, what did I forget? Depends on how close you are to flying. Avionics are changing rapidly, and Multi-Function Displays are already available. In the next few years, Primary Flight Displays which replace your standard six will also be available. Sierra systems already has a non-certified PFD on the market, but with it you need to keep the round instruments for flight in IMC, and the Sierra panel I saw installed in an airplane was prone to lock up. So, what does all this mean. If you have seen the current thread by Bob N. of Aeroelectric Connection, the all electric system is the way to go. I would use a derivative of the Defiant electrical system which is in Bob's book, and instead of having two engines just use the vacuum pump mount pad for the second alternator. A 10 amp alternator combined with a 60 amp alternator in the standard location. Paul Long EZ 214LP At 18:41 11/22/99 +0000, willav@att.net wrote: >I have just finished (I think) all the wiring and >plumbing behind the panel that I can conceivable imagine >needing. I've pre-wired for my dream avionics (of course >that will all change before I get to install it!), >electric nose lift, etc. and am thinking it's time to >glue the fuselage top on. However, just before I do, I >thought I'd ask around and see what, if anything, others >have wished they'd done before making it a whole lot more >difficult to do without cuttiong holes in the deck! > >Thanks for you experience, >Will > > From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com Date: Sat, 20 Nov 1999 19:25:55 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: COZY: semi structrial mods Re front hinged canopy - was said I respectfully disagree, with the vertical gas springs modification, I find it very convenient wher either the passenger or pilot can enter or exit without disturbing the other. Yes its a little heavy, but if it opens in flight its no big thing, and someone that the original writer knows well had his side hinged canopy open in flight, a headset blew into a position that prevented closing in flight. The ventilation on the ground is excellent with it open against the emergency latch. Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 14:14:42 -0600 From: vance atkinson Subject: [Fwd: COZY: semi structrial mods] Yes, That was me, and it was a non-event because I FLEW THE PLANE FIRST !! The trouble was a safety catch that touched the torque rods on the canopy which with a simple bend eliminated the possible problem. Vance From ???@??? Tue Nov 23 21:41:54 1999 Return-Path: owner-cozy_builders@betaweb.com Received: from twc2.betaweb.com (root@betaweb.com [206.43.209.18]) by acestes-fe0.ultra.net (8.8.8/ult/n20340/mtc.v2) with ESMTP id AAA07160 for ; Tue, 23 Nov 1999 00:40:33 -0500 (EST) Received: (from majordomo@localhost) by twc2.betaweb.com (8.9.3/8.9.3) id VAA13180 for cozy_builders-list; Mon, 22 Nov 1999 21:33:10 -0500 X-Authentication-Warning: twc2.betaweb.com: majordomo set sender to owner-cozy_builders@betaweb.com using -f Received: from antiochus-fe0.ultra.net (antiochus-fe0.ultra.net [146.115.8.188]) by twc2.betaweb.com (8.9.3/8.9.3) with ESMTP id VAA13172 for ; Mon, 22 Nov 1999 21:32:57 -0500 Received: from zeitlinhome ([146.115.235.235]) by antiochus-fe0.ultra.net (8.8.8/ult/n20340/mtc.v2) with SMTP id VAA12027 for ; Mon, 22 Nov 1999 21:25:32 -0500 (EST) Message-Id: <4.1.19991122212010.009b8f00@pop.ultranet.com> Message-Id: <4.1.19991122212010.009b8f00@pop.ultranet.com> X-Sender: marcz@pop.ultranet.com X-Mailer: QUALCOMM Windows Eudora Pro Version 4.1 Date: Mon, 22 Nov 1999 21:21:45 -0500 To: Cozy Builders Mailing List From: "Marc J. Zeitlin" Subject: Fwd: COZY: So, what did I forget? Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Sender: owner-cozy_builders@betaweb.com Precedence: bulk Reply-To: "Marc J. Zeitlin" X-UIDL: 94c1e09fb243ae6fc30f6ad78b395f6c Will wrote: >I have just finished (I think) all the wiring and >plumbing behind the panel that I can conceivable imagine >needing. I've pre-wired for my dream avionics (of course >that will all change before I get to install it!), >electric nose lift, etc. and am thinking it's time to >glue the fuselage top on. Well, if you make the fuselage top removable (as indicated as an option in the Cozy MKIV plans), you don't need to ask this question because it's trivial to get at the area behing the panel. So, my recommendation would be to make the top removable and don't sweat it. -- Marc J. Zeitlin mailto:marcz@ultranet.com http://www.ultranet.com/~marcz/ From: "Bruce McElhoe" Subject: Re: COZY: canopy color Date: Thu, 25 Nov 1999 09:58:11 -0800 Wydo, I purchased my Long-EZ canopy from Airplane Plastics Co. in Ohio. I don't know if they are the preferred supplier for Cozy. If they are, I suggest you arrange for a third-party inspection of the canopy before it is shipped. I built my Long-EZ in Hawaii and the shipping cost was horrible. Even worse, Airplane Plastics sent me a canopy with a flaw, minor to them perhaps, but unacceptable to me. (It was a clearly visible bulge in the side.) After I returned the canopy, and after a considerable delay, Airplane Plasitics replaced the canopy So I had to pay freight at the oversize rate for three trips....more than the cost of the canopy. I can only guess that they tried to push off the flawed canopy on someone less likely to return it. The freight to the Netherlands would be even more. Bruce McElhoe Long-EZ N64MC Reedley, California > Hi builders, > > I would like to known what color canopy to order ? > Please tell me the advantage/ disadvantage of the color you are flying with. > > Does anyone has an email address of this approved supplier? > > Regards, > Wydo van de Waerdt (NL) > #827 > From: Don Bowen Subject: COZY: RE: Chapt 18 - turtledeck Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 11:50:47 -0500 John Slade wrote: I'm about to cut my turtleback jigs. I know that many builders have made the turtleback a couple of inches higher than plans in the front to give more shoulder room and for aesthetic reasons. Hi John, Just my 2 cents worth regarding mod's to the turtleback: I am 6'1" tall, and have considered raising the forward edge of the turtleback. I sat in Nat's Cozy during last year's Copperstate airshow. With the canopy closed I found the head and shoulder room adequate, but a little closer than I am used to in factory-type planes. I am getting ready to build the turtleback, and am considering raising the front edge by around 1/2" to 1". At 5'7", you should be O.K. with the stock setup (just my opinion). Personally, I think raising it by "a couple of inches" would be too much. Of course, my head and shoulder room "problem" could possibly be solved by using seat cushions thinner than those installed in Nat's plane. Many times I have thought about changing something from the plans configuration. It seems that after investigation and considerable thought, I end up doing things the way Nat says in the plans. I may end up building a completely "stock" turtleback and enjoying the sleek lines of Nat's design. Good luck with your project! Don Bowen Cozy Mk IV, s/n 440 From: alwick@juno.com Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 10:02:34 -0800 Subject: Re: COZY: RE: Chapt 18 - turtledeck Just don't mess with the firewall end. No value to it, and could be a bit of a pain due to effects on engine cover fit, etc. I'm 6'2, happy with stock setup. Plenty of head room for pilot. -al On Thu, 16 Dec 1999 11:50:47 -0500 Don Bowen writes: > John Slade wrote: > I'm about to cut my turtleback jigs. > I know that many builders have made the turtleback a couple of > inches higher > than plans in the front to give more shoulder room and for aesthetic > reasons. > > Hi John, > > Just my 2 cents worth regarding mod's to the turtleback: > > I am 6'1" tall, and have considered raising the forward edge of the > turtleback. > > I sat in Nat's Cozy during last year's Copperstate airshow. With > the canopy > closed I found the head and shoulder room adequate, but a little > closer than > I am used to in factory-type planes. > > I am getting ready to build the turtleback, and am considering > raising the > front edge by around 1/2" to 1". At 5'7", you should be O.K. with > the stock > setup (just my opinion). Personally, I think raising it by "a > couple of > inches" would be too much. > > Of course, my head and shoulder room "problem" could possibly be > solved by > using seat cushions thinner than those installed in Nat's plane. > Many times > I have thought about changing something from the plans > configuration. It > seems that after investigation and considerable thought, I end up > doing > things the way Nat says in the plans. I may end up building a > completely > "stock" turtleback and enjoying the sleek lines of Nat's design. > > Good luck with your project! > > Don Bowen > Cozy Mk IV, s/n 440 > > ___________________________________________________________________ Why pay more to get Web access? Try Juno for FREE -- then it's just $9.95/month if you act NOW! Get your free software today: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj. From: "James A. White" Subject: Re: COZY: Chap 18 - turtleback Date: Thu, 16 Dec 1999 21:27:39 -0800 I am 6'-1" and I don't think you need to increase the canopy height. I did widen the front of the turtle back without too much hassle. I found that I needed shoulder room more than I needed the headroom When you widen the turtleback at the front, the top center of the canopy will need slightly more fill. I used pour foam with good results. Messing around with the width of the back of turtleback will require making your own engine cowlings to match. Even though it is going to be a lot more work, I don't mind making my own cowlings. If you want to widen the back of the turtleback you start running into structural details of the side wood pieces. It gets more complicated from there. I don't suggest going there. Good luck, Jim White Plans #16 -----Original Message----- From: John Slade To: Cozy Date: Thursday, December 16, 1999 8:53 AM Subject: COZY: Chap 18 - turtleback >Builders, >A little advice if you please... > >I'm about to cut my turtleback jigs. >I know that many builders have made the turtleback a couple of inches higher >than plans in the front to give more shoulder room and for aesthetic >reasons. I'm not a big guy - 5' 7", 160lbs. so I'm not sure I need the extra >height - but then - I've only been in an AeroCanard. Never sat in a stock >Cozy. > >Given that deviating plans is generally a bad idea, I'd appreciate arguments >for and against lifting the turtleback / canopy. Also - how did you go about >making the change? Any gottchas? > >Regards, and happy holidays to all. >John Slade, Cozy MKIV #757, progress: http://kgarden.com/cozy >West Palm Beach, FL > >PS - to any builders at NASA - I hope you get off tonight! > > From: "James A. White" Subject: Re: COZY: Chap 18 - turtleback Date: Mon, 20 Dec 1999 22:40:45 -0800 Dana (and all), Here is my response. Please be aware that one small change leads to many many more. In this instance I widened the front of the turtleback jig. I also widened the rear of the turtleback, molded my own side windows (which worked out fine and saved some money too), made a new firewall, fairing pieces, new cowling, new rear canopy latch (identical to Cozy III), etc., etc.... >1. The plans show the TB jig width at 36 and 3/8ths inches....is this >what you changed to 38"? Yes, I widened the front of the turtleback jig like you mention here. The 38" width is to the inside of the plexiglass, so I believe the turtle back jig was around 38-1/2". >2. Did the standard Airplane Plastics canopy conform to this extra width >ok? The standard Airplane Plastics canopy is what I used and fits fine. >3. Did you tip the canopy forward a little bit to decrease the fill >required at the top? No. There really isn't a need to tip the canopy forward. That forward intersection of the canopy is dictated by the contour of the nose and fairing over the canard. Spreading the canopy wider requires some extra filling at the top of the canopy, but the weight penalty is negligible. As I recall pour foam was less than 1/2" at the deepest and averaged 1/8" or so. I covered the pour foam with 1 py of bid. The resulting fill at the top of the canopy covers a larger area than the standard arrangement. The larger fill provides some shading for my ever receeding hairline and does not significantly impact overhead or sideways visibility. >4. How was the extra shoulder width faired into the top longerons and >adjacent fuselage? All of the fairings and attachment hardpoints worked out just fine. > >Just trying to get this chapter conceptually straight prior to actually >getting to it. >Please also post your response to the cozy builders if you wish, I think >it's a >subject that may be breaking a little bit of new ground. >__________________________ >Thanks and Merry Christmas, >Dana Hill >CZ IV #676 > >_________________________________________________________ >On Sat, 18 Dec 1999 21:36:29 -0800 "James A. White" >writes: >> Hello Dana, >> The inside of my canopy above the shoulder is 38". I don't recall >> what the >> plans had. How tall are you? It's not too hard to raise the >> canopy, but I >> am curious as to why you want to. >> Jim >> -----Original Message----- >> From: dhill36@juno.com >> To: jimwhi@televar.com >> Date: Friday, December 17, 1999 5:34 PM >> Subject: Re: COZY: Chap 18 - turtleback >> >> >> >Hi Jim, >> > I was wondering, in response to your recent canopy email(thanx!), >> to >> >what degree -or amount that you might have tipped the canopy >> forward to >> >lessen the filler at the top of the canopy? >> > >> > I plan on raising my canopy an 1" or so and very much would like >> to also >> >widen it. Very curious how much did you move the bottom edge of >> the >> >canopy outward? >> > >> >Thanks for any help, >> >Dana Hill >> >CZ IV #676 >> >Ch 7 >> >___________________________________________________________________ >> >Why pay more to get Web access? >> >Try Juno for FREE -- then it's just $9.95/month if you act NOW! >> >Get your free software today: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj. >> > >> > >___________________________________________________________________ >Why pay more to get Web access? >Try Juno for FREE -- then it's just $9.95/month if you act NOW! >Get your free software today: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj. >