Date: Mon, 04 Jan 1999 14:54 -0600 (CST) From: Michael Pollock Subject: COZY: Cozy MKIV Camber Question? Could one of the Cozy Builders on this forum tell me what you measured for camber when you were setting the toe-in while the fuselage was upside down (chapter 9)? I am using the FeatherLite gear and currently have around 8 degrees off vertical. I believe this is too much, but I have no reference. The manual does not state a number and Nat was not sure what it was when upside down. From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 16:21:32 -0600 (CST) Subject: Re: COZY: Cozy MKIV Camber Question? Don't worry about it, until the plane is complete. There is an easy way to adjust it after complete. I'll try to describe the method of making tapered BID shims for the next CSA newsletter. Checking camber and toein should be part of periodic (annual) inspection. From: "Nat Puffer" Subject: Re: COZY: Cozy MKIV Camber Question? Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 19:42:04 -0600 Builders, Eight degrees may be the right angle. I never measured it because this question never came up before. If anyone has pictures of their airplane upside down, they could measure it from the picture. Nat ---------- > From: Michael Pollock > To: Cozy_Builders > Subject: COZY: Cozy MKIV Camber Question? > Date: Monday, January 04, 1999 2:00 PM > > Could one of the Cozy Builders on this forum tell me what you measured > for camber when you were setting the toe-in while the fuselage was > upside down (chapter 9)? I am using the FeatherLite gear and currently > have around 8 degrees off vertical. I believe this is too much, but > I have no reference. The manual does not state a number and Nat was > not sure what it was when upside down. > > Date: Mon, 04 Jan 1999 18:20:58 -0500 From: "L. Wayne Hicks" Subject: COZY: Chptr 9 Landing Brake Question I'm now ready to glass 3-BID over the landing brake and flox the hinge to LB-23, ensuring that the hinge is firmly against LB-23. Fine. (1) How do you do that?... How do you press the hinge into the flox and LB-23 without the hinge moving? (2) Do you attach something between the hinge and L-19 to "preset" and hold the hinge at the proper angle while pressing everything together? To me, it looks like a blind fit requiring a leap of faith. Anyone have a good technique for doing this step? Wayne Hicks Cozy IV #678 Chapter 9 From: Don Bowen Subject: COZY: RE: Chpt 9 Landing Brake Question Date: Mon, 4 Jan 1999 17:15:14 -0700 Wayne Hicks wrote: I'm now ready to glass 3-BID over the landing brake and flox the hinge to LB-23, ensuring that the hinge is firmly against LB-23. To me, it looks like a blind fit requiring a leap of faith. Anyone have a good technique for doing this step? Here's my two cents worth: I finished this section of chapter 9 last week. I studied the plans over and over but could not figure a good way to make sure the hinge stayed in place when pressed onto the LB-23. I knew this was something I didn't want to get screwed up. Here's what I did: Prior to the 3-ply glass layup I pilot drilled (#40) the four aluminum slugs and the corresponding locations on the hinge. Then I drilled and tapped the (10-32 threads) four aluminum slugs. Using a black fine point felt pen I marked the locations of the four holes (horizontal and vertical) so they could be located underneath the 3 ply layup (this is important, make the marks large enough to be seen through the glass). Then I stuffed small wads of Kleenex tissue into the holes, followed by a small amount of candle wax to prevent the epoxy from entering into the holes. Do the layups per plans. After cure, carefully drill through the glass at the four locations and dig out the wax and tissue (tweezers work good for this). Now you can check the fit of the hinge and drill the holes out (the ones in the hinge) to final size (#10). You may have to trim down the hinge, as the three plys of glass may have taken up some of the room. I had to round off the corners and trim approximately one tenth of an inch off the bottom of the hinge. Your results may vary. With the 1 x 2 boards in place (per plans) you are ready to flox the hinge into position. When all looks good, put the four AN525 screws through the hinge and into the threaded aluminum slugs and snug them down. When the flox cures you will be certain that the hinge did not move during the curing process. Good luck with your project! Don Bowen Cozy Mk IV s/n 440 Chapters 9 and 14 donbow@symix.com Date: Tue, 05 Jan 1999 08:27 -0600 (CST) From: Michael Pollock Subject: Re: COZY: RE: Chpt 9 Landing Brake Question Wayne Hicks wrote: >I'm now ready to glass 3-BID over the landing brake and flox the hinge >to LB-23, ensuring that the hinge is firmly against LB-23. >To me, it looks like a blind fit requiring a leap of faith. >Anyone have a good technique for doing this step? I used one or two wood stirring sticks covered with tape and pressed them into the void in front of the hinge to keep the hinge pressed against LB-23. Just remember to keep the landing brake centered into the hole that it came out of. Michael.Pollock@mci.com Flying Velocity N173DT Building Cozy MKIV #643 Date: Wed, 06 Jan 1999 18:12:05 +0000 From: Paul Kuntz Subject: Re: COZY: Chptr 9 Landing Brake Question L. Wayne Hicks wrote: > > I'm now ready to glass 3-BID over the landing brake and flox the hinge > to LB-23, ensuring that the hinge is firmly against LB-23. > I simply put a few pieces of foam rubber between the hinge and the landing brake to ensure that the hinge would have some pressure against LB-23 while the flox sets up. Then I floxed the mating surfaces and put the landing brake into position (held flush with the fuselage bottom by the two boards you bondo'd in place earlier). After the flox set up, I lifted the brake, drilled and tapped the holes and bolted it in place. Everything came out fine. Paul Kuntz Cozy MkIV England From: sdbish@juno.com Subject: COZY: Cozy MKIV Camber Question? Date: Tue, 05 Jan 1999 17:09:34 EST Measuring from a picture, could be misleading due to distortion in the picture, or depending upon what perspective or angle the picture was taken from.. Marv Bishop Builders, Eight degrees may be the right angle. I never measured it because this question never came up before. If anyone has pictures of their airplane upside down, they could measure it from the picture. Nat -------- > From: Michael Pollock > To: Cozy_Builders > Could one of the Cozy Builders on this forum tell me what you measured > for camber when you were setting the toe-in while the fuselage was > upside down (chapter 9)? I am using the FeatherLite gear and currently > have around 8 degrees off vertical. I believe this is too much, but > I have no reference. The manual does not state a number and Nat was > not sure what it was when upside down. ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] Date: Sat, 09 Jan 1999 09:18:08 -0500 From: Neil Clayton Subject: COZY: Matco Brakes instalation I've decided on the Matco 3-puck heavy duty brakes, and it's time to carve the gear strut-ends to accommodate them. Before I start cutting, has anyone done it? What shape did you choose for the end of the gear legs? How did you overcome having a bolt end up close to the end of the leg? Thx Neil C Date: Sat, 09 Jan 1999 13:03:34 -0500 From: Bulent Aliev Subject: Re: COZY: Matco Brakes instalation Hi Neil, I installed my 3 puck Matco brakes without cutting anything. Just made 1" aluminum spacer under the axel mounting plate and the calipers are almosr horisontal at the top. This way the gear leg is not exposed to the heat radiation from the disk. Neil Clayton wrote: > I've decided on the Matco 3-puck heavy duty brakes, and it's time to carve > the gear strut-ends to accommodate them. > > Before I start cutting, has anyone done it? What shape did you choose for > the end of the gear legs? How did you overcome having a bolt end up close > to the end of the leg? > > Thx > Neil C From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com Date: Sat, 9 Jan 1999 12:29:26 -0600 (CST) Subject: Re: COZY: Matco Brakes instalation Bulent wrote <1" spacer under axles> This increases the lever arm on the strut, incrasing the bending and torsion stresses and reducing the factor of safety. How much, I don't know, but a consideration. Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 11:29:26 -0800 From: "LCDR James D. Newman" Subject: COZY: Re: Matco Brakes instalation Hi Bulent, Carl and All, > Bulent wrote: > Hi Neil, I installed my 3 puck Matco brakes without cutting anything. Just made 1" aluminum spacer under the axle mounting plate and the calipers are almost horizontal at the top. This way the gear leg is not exposed to the heat radiation from the disk. > Carl Denk wrote: > Bulent wrote <1" spacer under axles> > This increases the lever arm on the strut, increasing the bending and torsion stresses and reducing the factor of safety. How much, I don't know, but a consideration. Bulent, Carl's right. You shouldn't do this. Besides, it makes for a wider draggy wheel pant. The Matco's dissipate heat much better so shouldn't be as much of a concern, particularly if you still do the typical Fiberfrax wrap around the strut and under the axle. You may need to round the bottom of the strut a little to fit the brake housing, but you won't need to cut out the side of the strut like with the Cleveland's. Infinity's Forever, JD From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 14:12:22 -0600 (CST) Subject: Re: COZY: Re: Matco Brakes instalation JD wrote Yes, I used RTV to hold it in place, and then protected it with heavy duty kitchen aluminum foil, also held and sealed with RTV beads. I have 1/8" aluminum heat shields between the axle and strut. They are about the diameter of the wheel, and cut out for my Cleveland brakes, with about an 1/8" clearance. I have made more than a few stops in 2000' at around 1800 lbs. gross with out feeling and excessive heat. Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 19:43:11 -0500 From: Neil Clayton Subject: Re: COZY: MATCO BRAKES >BTW JD if you have a photo or a drawing of an installation I would like to take a look at it Me too, JD. I've played with dozens of cardboard profiles to shape the end of the leg to accommodate the Matcos, but they all seem to dictate large cut outs which would weaken the leg unacceptably. The problem is that the puck body is very close to the axle centreline. Bulent's 1" aluminum spacer seems to be the best solution so far since; 1) it leaves the leg intact (no cutouts at all), 2) distances the leg from the hot things, leaving lots of room for insulation, and 3) prevents having to drill axle holes near the very end of the leg. The extra torque applied to the leg in heavy breaking is an issue. I'll do some calcs on it. The wider boot sounds like it could be made acceptable by maintaining the width/length ratio of the boot. So...any pictures of a successful 3-puck Matco installation would be very welcome. (I'll copy this to Chris Copeland at Matco. They've probably come across this before and their inut would be welcome.) Thx Neil C From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com Date: Sun, 10 Jan 1999 19:47:16 -0600 (CST) Subject: Re: COZY: MATCO BRAKES Clayton said and hard landings. What kind of stress allowables do you use on the composite strut material when heated from braking (a series of touch and goes)? I don't know where the critical section will occur, but could be most anywhere, and from what combination of forces. Don't think its a straight forward calculation Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 00:01:46 -0500 From: "Marc J. Zeitlin" Subject: Fwd: Re: COZY: MATCO BRAKES Neil Clayton wrote: >Me too, JD. I've played with dozens of cardboard profiles to shape the end >of the leg to accommodate the Matcos, but they all seem to dictate large >cut outs which would weaken the leg unacceptably. How do you know it's unacceptable? >...... The problem is that the >puck body is very close to the axle centreline. This is true. >Bulent's 1" aluminum spacer seems to be the best solution so far since; However, as Carl points out, it increases the stress on the leg tremendously. >The extra torque applied to the leg in heavy breaking is an issue. I'll do >some calcs on it. Freudian slip there? :-). I assume you meant "braking". >So...any pictures of a successful 3-puck Matco installation would be very >welcome. Well, you can check out the pictures on my web pages at: http://cozy.canard.com/chapters/chap09_6.html I've got pictures of my installation, as well as that of Marc and Nadine Parmelee. We both cut part of the strut away - Marc/Nadine less than I did. Neither of us are flying yet so how successful these installations are is yet to be seen..... -- Marc J. Zeitlin marcz@ultranet.com http://www.ultranet.com/~marcz/ Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 13:53:31 -0500 From: Bulent Aliev Subject: Re: Fwd: Re: COZY: MATCO BRAKES Hi Mark , I did take look at your installation and per my measurements, the cut out takes away about 25% of the chord on the gear leg out. That area I think is under greatest load from the axle. 2) Even with proper heat shield, there is some heating and weakening of the area from the close proximity of the disk. 3) I would like to hear someone to comment on the advantage/disadvantage of the calipers installed on the bottom close to the ground?? I just don't know. On my installation with the 1" spacer I only wary about the extra pull force on the bottom mounting bolts? I can still eliminate the spacer and rotate my calipers to the bottom without cutting in to the leg, just don't like them too close to the ground. Hope that we will come up wit the best compromise one day :) Regards Bulent Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 11:22:39 -0800 From: "LCDR James D. Newman" Subject: COZY: Re: MATCO BRAKES Hi Marc and All, > Marc Zeitlin wrote: > Neither of us are flying yet so how successful these installations are is yet to be seen..... There are many canards and other homebuilts flying with the Matco wheels, brakes and axles, including Mike Melville. Infinity's Forever, JD Date: Mon, 11 Jan 1999 11:30:47 -0800 From: "LCDR James D. Newman" Subject: COZY: Re: MATCO BRAKES Hi Bulent and All, > Bulent Aliev wrote: > 3) I would like to hear someone to comment on the advantage/disadvantage of the calipers installed on the bottom close to the ground?? I just don't know. One of the beauties of the Matco wheels and brakes is that the brake housing lives within the wheel diameter, so mounting them down close to the ground is not an issue. Infinity's Forever, JD From: cozy623@juno.com Date: Sat, 23 Jan 1999 20:52:38 -0700 Subject: COZY: bump On chap 9 page 1, did you all shave the longeron doubler all the way back to match LWX or just take the corner off so that the glass will lay down? Jeb Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1999 12:30:02 -0500 From: Gary Dwinal Subject: Re: COZY: bump Hi Jeb, I just kind of rounded the corner off to make it look less boxy. Of course at that point of the project I had absolutely no idea who, what, where and why that part was even there. Building a second airplane similar to the first would be much quicker and easier. Gary Dwinal cozy623@juno.com wrote: > On chap 9 page 1, did you all shave the longeron doubler all the way > back to match LWX or just take the corner off so that the glass will lay > down? Jeb Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1999 12:39:56 -0500 From: bil kleb Subject: Re: COZY: bump cozy623@juno.com wrote: > > On chap 9 page 1, did you all shave the longeron doubler all the way > back to match LWX or just take the corner off so that the glass will lay > down? i just took the corner off: http://www.geocities.com/~kleb/homebuilt/ch08/ch08_09.jpg -- bil From: JoeHeag@aol.com Date: Sun, 24 Jan 1999 23:03:00 EST Subject: COZY: Re: Bump Jeb, I know the trepidation you're going through. I have the same desire to build the absolute best. Not for any awards mind you, but for personal satisfaction. I have a 90 degree die grinder fitted with a small disk sander and just ground the doubler off enough to lay the glass without void. Essentially, flattened it out and blended it into the curve. Someday, I'll have the speed built up and quality control securely in-hand. As for now, the times quoted in the manual for certain tasks are severely busted. Joe Heagerty Cozy MK IV, #393 Chapter 9 Riverside, CA From: lschuler@cellular.uscc.com Date: Mon, 25 Jan 1999 09:01:24 -0600 Subject: Re: COZY: bump Jeb wrote: >On chap 9 page 1, did you all shave the longeron doubler all the way >back to match LWX or just take the corner off so that the glass will >lay down? I rounded the corner of mine so the glass would lay down. Larry From: cozy623@juno.com Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 19:17:14 -0700 Subject: COZY: landing brake I am confused because I moved my seat back an inch and I can't remember whether I moved the landing brake back also. The front of the brake has a tab when it gets cut out. Where is the hinge line? If I measure the 2 1/4" Back from the seatback it would put my hingeline behind the front of the tab and nearer to what would be the front of the brake if the tab wasn't there at all. I guess I just don't have a clear picture of what the thing looks like when it is done. Jeb From: cozy623@juno.com Date: Fri, 12 Feb 1999 21:20:06 -0700 Subject: Re: COZY: landing brake Thanks, that is what I had figured from my high tech research of looking at every Cozy picture I could find, but wasn't sure because of having my seat further back. Thanks again. Jeb From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 07:41:51 -0600 (CST) Subject: Re: COZY: landing brake Jeb wrote I would leave the entire landing brake system (both the door and handle) in the same locations (fuselage stations). The door for aerodynamic reasons, and the handle to preserve the relationship to the trottle, and probably it sounds like you are tall and probably long armed, it will fit you. Just adjust the nylaflow tubing cable conduits for smooth curves, and if necessary route out the aft face of the front seat back for clearance. From: cozy623@juno.com Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 17:07:10 -0700 Subject: Re: COZY: landing brake The brake is moved back also per Nat. I did that work a few months ago. I am working on the stuff in chapter 9 now. Jeb Date: Sat, 13 Feb 1999 11:34:20 -0500 From: Bill Theeringer Subject: COZY: ..seat back 1 inch Jeb wrote If you use the electric actuator the 1 inch is moot. As a mater of fact it would occupy less space as the actuator would be close to parallel to the seat back. I haven't run the numbers but the actuator would be quite cheap when you subtract the cost of the other items required for the mechanical installation. Your passengers already have less foot room. Bill Theeringer N29EZ Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1999 17:24:20 -0500 From: Neil Clayton Subject: COZY: Brake heat at the Axle Hi all...question regarding brake heat at the axle; Heat is generated from the disk/pad area and radiates/conducts outward from there. Anyone care to speculate what heat the axle_end_plate-to-gear_leg junction will feel? Enough to soften a flox pad? Thx Neil C From ???@??? Fri Feb 19 21:42:44 1999 Return-Path: owner-cozy_builders@betaweb.com Received: from twc2.betaweb.com (majordomo@betaweb.com [206.43.209.18]) by acestes-fe0.ultra.net (8.8.8/ult/n20340/mtc.v2) with ESMTP id AAA04768 for ; Fri, 19 Feb 1999 00:30:38 -0500 (EST) Received: (from majordomo@localhost) by twc2.betaweb.com (8.8.5/8.8.5) id AAA23894 for cozy_builders-list; Fri, 19 Feb 1999 00:00:05 -0500 X-Authentication-Warning: twc2.betaweb.com: majordomo set sender to owner-cozy_builders@betaweb.com using -f Received: from antiochus-fe0.ultra.net (antiochus-fe0.ultra.net [146.115.8.188]) by twc2.betaweb.com (8.8.5/8.8.5) with ESMTP id AAA23842 for ; Fri, 19 Feb 1999 00:00:01 -0500 Received: from zeitlinhome ([146.115.235.235]) by antiochus-fe0.ultra.net (8.8.8/ult/n20340/mtc.v2) with SMTP id XAA27535 for ; Thu, 18 Feb 1999 23:51:02 -0500 (EST) Message-Id: <4.1.19990218234148.00a1eb70@pop.ultranet.com> X-Sender: marcz@pop.ultranet.com X-Mailer: QUALCOMM Windows Eudora Pro Version 4.1 Date: Thu, 18 Feb 1999 23:47:22 -0500 To: Cozy Builders Mailing List From: "Marc J. Zeitlin" Subject: COZY: Brake heat at the Axle In-Reply-To: <3.0.5.32.19990218172420.00804e30@mail.earthlink.net> Mime-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Sender: owner-cozy_builders@betaweb.com Precedence: bulk Reply-To: "Marc J. Zeitlin" X-UIDL: c0bb8d2282b9441627ace15dfc774661 Neil Clayton asks; >Heat is generated from the disk/pad area and radiates/conducts outward from there. Yep. >Anyone care to speculate what heat the axle_end_plate-to-gear_leg junction will feel? >Enough to soften a flox pad? Well, if you put in the aluminum heat shield, then no radiative heat will get to the gear leg/axle joint at all. (This is, of course, the reason for the heat shield :-) ). Since there are a gazillion EZ's flying, all with this setup (heat shield or not, they all have axles bolted to the gear leg on a flox pad) and none of them have failed at the flox pad (the heat may soften the gear leg and cause it to fold up, but I've never seen a report of the AXLE deforming the gear leg flox pad under it) I think it's safe to assume that this one particular failure mode is extremely remote :-). There are, however, an infinite number of failure modes, and if you sum the probability of failure, no matter how small each one is, it's always more than one :-). -- Marc J. Zeitlin marcz@ultranet.com http://www.ultranet.com/~marcz/ From: "Nat Puffer" Subject: Re: COZY: Brake heat at the Axle Date: Fri, 19 Feb 1999 07:08:23 -0600 People, I was talking to Scott Swing recently. He said their use of Matco wheels and brakes was a carry over from Danny Meier, but they liked Clevelands. He spoke of differences and mentioned a concern about brake heat being conducted to the gear leg through the Matco axles. I didn't question him about this. I don't know if there was something about the design, or if it had to do with the amount of heat being generated. Maybe someone else knows. Regards, Nat From ???@??? Fri Feb 26 23:31:39 1999 Return-Path: owner-cozy_builders@betaweb.com Received: from twc2.betaweb.com (majordomo@betaweb.com [206.43.209.18]) by acestes-fe0.ultra.net (8.8.8/ult/n20340/mtc.v2) with ESMTP id NAA19683 for ; Fri, 26 Feb 1999 13:48:22 -0500 (EST) Received: (from majordomo@localhost) by twc2.betaweb.com (8.8.5/8.8.5) id NAA06849 for cozy_builders-list; Fri, 26 Feb 1999 13:06:57 -0500 X-Authentication-Warning: twc2.betaweb.com: majordomo set sender to owner-cozy_builders@betaweb.com using -f Received: from crius.flash.net (echo.flash.net [209.30.0.40]) by twc2.betaweb.com (8.8.5/8.8.5) with ESMTP id NAA06842 for ; Fri, 26 Feb 1999 13:06:51 -0500 Received: from flash.net (p169.sas3.dialup.san1.flash.net [209.30.92.169]) by crius.flash.net (8.9.1/8.8.5) with ESMTP id LAA20608; Fri, 26 Feb 1999 11:56:41 -0600 (CST) Message-ID: <36D6E058.C3B57325@flash.net> Date: Fri, 26 Feb 1999 09:56:40 -0800 From: "LCDR James D. Newman" Organization: INFINITY Aerospace (http://www.flash.net/~infaero) X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.5 [en] (Win95; I) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 To: "Canards - 'R' - Us" Subject: COZY: Re: Axle heating Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Sender: owner-cozy_builders@betaweb.com Precedence: bulk Reply-To: "LCDR James D. Newman" X-UIDL: 638d936aeb4a4a8ee1cf79e43634b15f Hi All, ****************************************************** ****************************************************** >> Marc Zeitlin wrote Feb. 18th: >> Anyone care to speculate what heat the axle_end_plate-to-gear_leg junction will feel? Enough to soften a flox pad? ****************************************************** > Nat Puffer wrote Feb. 19th: >People, >I was talking to Scott Swing recently. He said their use of Matco wheels and brakes was a carry over >from Danny Meier, but they liked Clevelands. He spoke of differences and mentioned a concern about >brake heat being conducted to the gear leg through the Matco axles. I didn't question him about >this. I don't know if there was something about the design, or if it had to do with the amount of >heat being generated. Maybe someone else knows. >Regards, >Nat ****************************************************** ****************************************************** Rather than paraphrase, I thought I'd just post Phil's entire informative post to me to the group. But the bottom line is that the axle WILL NOT propagate enough heat to soften the flox pad. Please, ALWAYS feel free to contact Matco or myself for factual answers to your questions. Infinity's Forever, JD ****************************************************** -------- Original Message -------- Subject: Axle heating Date: Fri, 26 Feb 1999 08:32:13 EST From: WHEELS7951@aol.com To: "LCDR James D. Newman" JD Newman Thanks for forwarding the email about the heating problem. I suggest you call Scott Swing at Velocity and ask him. If Velocity was having such a critical problem with Matco wheels, they certainly wouldn't order wheels from us month after month for years. You will find that Nat has the statement from Scott 180 degrees reversed. All of the early mfg Velocity's used Cleveland Brakes chosen by Danny. The test results we have done show that neither a Cleveland or a Matco brake propagate enough heat through the axle to affect the fiber glass landing gear IF the proper wheel and brake is used on any airplane. It was the radiant heat from the Cleveland brake disc that caused some problems with one of the landing gears on the early production Velocity. The damage in this incidence was in my opinion due to two factors. 1. Danny chose a Cleveland brake that had a brake disc that was too small to absorb the Kinetic Energy generated by the Velocity upon landing and the brake got too hot. A Cleveland Brake with a .375" rotor instead of the .250" thick rotor would not have achieved as high a temperature to radiate onto the landing gear leg. A disc on either a Cleveland or Matco brake will become incandescent (glow cherry red) at about 800 degrees F. If a steel or cast iron brake disc has arrived at this temperature point it is usually no longer effective at stopping the vehicle. A "normal" landing temperature cycle of a properly chosen brake disc on an airplane will arrive at 400 degrees F with moderate braking action. and 2. The brake disc of the Cleveland Wheel was placed too close to the composite landing gear (under .200" as I recall) and the heat caused the materials to soften after the plane was parked. This could have also been resolved with different materials in the landing gear and a heat shield wrapped around the landing gear. We do not know all the facts, but this may also have been caused by someone doing high speed taxi tests over and over and not a "normal" landing. This causes a ratcheting up of the heat in the brake beyond the design limit. Contrary to popular belief among the kit plane industry, a properly chosen brake for an airplane is not designed to repetitively stop the horsepower generated by the engine. The heat in my opinion could not have come through the axle although looking at the bent landing gear one could arrive at that opinion. Our tests over the years have shown that the axle is one of the last elements to be effected by the heat propagation of a brake. There is only a tiny part of the wheel touching the axle (rollers in the bearing) so most heat getting into the axle is from radiant heat not conductive. For the axle to get hot enough to melt the composite landing gear, the rest of the wheel would have gotten so hot that the brake would have been damaged. The rubber on the tire and the brake fluid would have gone first. Cleveland makes an excellent product and it would work well on the Velocity if the company (Velocity) had chosen the proper wheel and brake. Phil Matco Manufacturing From: "John Stricker" Subject: Re: COZY: Re: Axle heating Date: Fri, 26 Feb 1999 17:16:00 -0600 On the subject of heat through the axle to the pads on the gear, perhaps a little thinking through of the process might be in order. First, the only way for the heat to get there would be conduction if it's coming through the axle. For the heat to be conducted through there, it will have to go through the cups, rollers, and inner race of the bearing, then to the axle. Now if it follows that path, it will greatly overheat the grease in the bearings and any seals as well. Which do you suppose will melt first, the flox or the grease? The flox or the rubber seal? Did the heat damage either the grease or the seal? If not, how did it avoid damage by conduction of the heat since it would have seen it first and only the pad be damaged? My suggestion is that the post by JD is dead on accurate. If you've ever worked on a hub/spindle that has had a failed bearing, you've smelled and seen the results of overheated grease, and seen the remains of an overheated seal. If you didn't see that on the failures being discussed, the heat almost by necessity came from radiation from the disk. Just my opinion, based on seeing lot's of heat damaged parts. John Stricker jstricke@odsys.net "I didn't spend all these years getting to the top of the food chain just to become a vegetarian" Date: Tue, 09 Mar 1999 17:48:12 -0500 From: Neil Clayton Subject: COZY: Cleaning out brake line ducts I went to install my Nyloseal hydraulic lines to the brakes, and found that one side is tight/blocked(?). I suspect one of the 1/4" drinking straws has become restricted/kinked. Any ideas on "reaming" it out?? It's about a foot in from the bottom end. Thx Neil C From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com Date: Tue, 9 Mar 1999 20:07:34 -0600 (CST) Subject: Re: COZY: Cleaning out brake line ducts Check your residental/industrial electrical supply house for a flexible long (several feet) drill bit. Its used for getting phone, telephone, and burglar alarm wiring through walls. I think the size is about right. BUt be very careful, I probably would turn it by hand. Can you get anything through the conduit, even a thin wire? You might just have a glob of epoxy. Get a Mig welder wire. Have the welder stop so theres a small glob of formerly molten steel on the end as a guide. Or form a loop on the end and twist the end around tightly. Take a piece of stiff wire, flatten the end and sharpen like a drill bit, might even flatten an inch or 2 from the end, the first part as a guide. With a heavy enough stiff wire, try pounding with a hammer. THis is just a bunch of brainstorming aloud. Food for thought. Work carefully, and slowly, likely it will get done. What happens when feeding from the other end? how close can you get to the stoppage from the first end. From: DougSheph@aol.com Date: Tue, 9 Mar 1999 21:40:21 EST Subject: COZY: Cleaning out brake duct lines > I went to install my Nyloseal hydraulic lines to the brakes, and found that > one side is tight/blocked(?). I suspect one of the 1/4" drinking straws has > become restricted/kinked. > Any ideas on "reaming" it out?? A trick I've used in the past to drill holes in a gently-curved path (installing house wiring, for instance) might be helpful. Take a piece of fish tape (you know, that semi-stiff stuff you'll use to fish the wires through the hole in the wall once you've made the hole?) and cut the end off at an shallow (~70 degrees to edge) angle. A few passes with a file will create an fairly efficient but not too aggressive cutting edge. You now have a very long drill bit which will bend a considerable amount, yet still transmit a fair amount of torque. For this application, I would do it by hand or maybe with a pair of vise grips, but you can just chuck it up in a variable-speed drill and go slowly. If it's not quite big enough to clear the whole diameter, I would think you could peen the end flatter and wider for a second pass, filing it to an exact fit. Good luck! Doug Shepherd (DougSheph@aol.com) From: Fritzx2@aol.com Date: Tue, 9 Mar 1999 23:38:36 EST Subject: Re: COZY: Cleaning out brake line ducts Neil Clayton asked: > I went to install my Nyloseal hydraulic lines to the brakes, and found that > one side is tight/blocked(?). I suspect one of the 1/4" drinking straws has > become restricted/kinked. > > Any ideas on "reaming" it out?? It's about a foot in from the bottom end. When I installed my straws, I overlapped them in one direction with the intent of inserting my hydraulic tubing in one direction. It may be that if you insert the tubing from the other direction you will be going with the straw "step" transitions instead of against them which might help. This isn't what you asked but on the outside chance that it hadn't occurred to you, maybe it will help. John Fritz Date: Sat, 13 Mar 1999 11:54:39 -0500 From: Gary Dwinal Subject: Re: COZY: Heat Shields Hi Gregg, It would be best to do both. The idea is to keep the heat from transferring from the brake rotor to the gear leg. Anything you can do to keep this from happening is warranted. The reason for only needing a fan shaped heat shield is because the only susceptible area is right on top of the brake rotor where the gear leg is close to the heat source. Hopefully, this answers some of your questions. Gary Dwinal gperry@usit.com wrote: > Hi everyone, > > In the Cozy Mark IV plans it says to wrap the lower gear legs with > aluminum tape and fiberfax. No mention of aluminum pieces to protect the > legs. BUT...it seems most of the canards I've seen have a fan-shaped piece > of aluminum mounted between the axle and leg. So, what's the current > thinking about this? > I've had one person say to do both. Also, if the aluminum is preferred, why > the fan shape? Since the brake disc is circular, I would think a circular > shield would be more effective. Any thoughts would be welcome... > > Gregg From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com Date: Sat, 13 Mar 1999 13:39:51 -0600 (CST) Subject: Re: COZY: Heat Shields On 03/13/99 10:49:47 you wrote: > >Hi everyone, > > In the Cozy Mark IV plans it says to wrap the lower gear legs with >aluminum tape and fiberfax. No mention of aluminum pieces to protect the >legs. BUT...it seems most of the canards I've seen have a fan-shaped piece >of aluminum mounted between the axle and leg. So, what's the current >thinking about this? >I've had one person say to do both. Also, if the aluminum is preferred, why >the fan shape? Since the brake disc is circular, I would think a circular >shield would be more effective. Any thoughts would be welcome... > > Gregg > > > I did both. THe Fiberax is held in place with beads of RTV and then protected with heavy duty kitchen type aluminum foil also held and sealed with RTV. From: cozy623@juno.com Date: Sun, 21 Mar 1999 18:25:59 -0700 Subject: COZY: Landing brake Sorry, I don't have internet to check archives. How did you all make sure that your hinge stayed tight against LB23 when you installed the whole mess with flox. Open up the brake, push it tight, shut it all up and pray or what? Jeb ___________________________________________________________________ You don't need to buy Internet access to use free Internet e-mail. Get completely free e-mail from Juno at http://www.juno.com/getjuno.html or call Juno at (800) 654-JUNO [654-5866] Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 08:26:06 -0500 From: bil kleb Subject: Re: COZY: Landing brake cozy623@juno.com wrote: > > Sorry, I don't have internet to check archives. you don't need web-access to check the archives. you can use majordomo do retreive them via email. instructions are in the mailing list charter. (that you printed and hung next to your computer, right?) basically: send email to majordomo@canard.com with get cozy_builders topics95/chap_09.txt get cozy_builders topics96/chap_09.txt get cozy_builders topics97/chap_09.txt get cozy_builders topics98/chap_09.txt get cozy_builders topics/chap_09.txt end in the body of the message (subject line doesn't matter). -- bil From: Fritzx2@aol.com Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 09:40:39 EST Subject: Re: COZY: Landing brake Jeb asked: >How did you all make sure that your hinge stayed tight against >LB23 when you installed the whole mess with flox. I didn't use flox. With the landing brake closed and the boards bondo'd to the outside holding it flush with the fuse bottom, I placed dabs of hot glue on the hinge half that gets bolted to the fuse bottom. Then, I opened the air brake enough to hot glue the bottom edge of the fixed part of the hinge against the glass over the plywood insert. Finally, with the door clearances checked and everything square, I drilled the hinge holes. It made me nervous committing to floxing the brake in place which is pretty permanent without being able to first open the brake in that configuration. Since my wood insert that the hinge mounts against is perfectly flat, I saw no reason to use the flox since the loads are carried by the bolts anyway. I would imagine that those that have done it the flox way have probably popped the air brake loose later at some time so that they could more easily do the filling and painting process. Of course, when all was done, I removed the temporary jigging hot glue. John Fritz Date: Mon, 22 Mar 1999 18:13:33 -0500 From: "L. Wayne Hicks" Subject: Re: COZY: Landing brake > > Jeb asked: > > >How did you all make sure that your hinge stayed tight against > >LB23 when you installed the whole mess with flox. > > John Fritz replies: >I didn't use flox. It > made me nervous committing to floxing the brake in place > Wayne Hicks adds: Nat may want choose to respond here, but I believe the use of flox here is not to attach the hinge in place, but to make a perfectly-mated , load-bearing surface. I worried too, but guess what, it's very easy to pop the hinge loose from the flox. This is the same thing you do when mounting the canopy hinges to the upper longerons. Wayne Hicks Cozy IV #678 Chapter 11 Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 18:08:52 -0600 From: Tom Brusehaver Subject: COZY: CH 9 true confessions Well, I have fully qualified as an Oaf now also. I built my tabs too long, just like Marc. I asked for and received assistance, from the master, and am working my way throught apprenticeship. Thank you Marc. The other Oaf like symptom, happened while laying up the tabs, and was fully made obvious when trimming the tabs. Somehow I hadn't noticed while trimming the tabs the first time, (there wasn't much to trim :-) that I had in-advertently left a layer of poly in the layup. I did like the instructions say, (I used poly instead of wax paper) and did 5 layers at a time, and trim the edges with the poly. I musta been distracted or something, and left the layer of poly in, while laminating things. It was the last 5 layers of UNI. When I went to trim off the top of the tab, I found that the 1 inch just fell apart! I took a minute, and looked, I could see the other side had a split in it. Nothing bad, but just enough to be noticable. There was the usual 5 minutes of denial, no I couldn't be that stupid, maybe it was only on the one side, etc. I got a screwdriver and put it in the split, and poped the rest off, one nicely shaped layer of poly laying there. All I could think to do was sand the tab that was left and re-do the layup. I hadn't even considered sanding both parts and gluing 'em together, I think what I did was right, although took more work. Ah well, live and learn. Date: Tue, 23 Mar 1999 20:03:53 -0500 From: Bulent Aliev Subject: Re: COZY: CH 9 true confessions I had the same experience to the letter with my landing gear tabs. So I sanded both parts and glued them together with epoxy. It was not a good feeling. Bulent From ???@??? Wed Mar 24 18:52:19 1999 Return-Path: owner-cozy_builders@betaweb.com Received: from twc2.betaweb.com (majordomo@betaweb.com [206.43.209.18]) by acestes-fe0.ultra.net (8.8.8/ult/n20340/mtc.v2) with ESMTP id MAA19167 for ; Wed, 24 Mar 1999 12:44:46 -0500 (EST) Received: (from majordomo@localhost) by twc2.betaweb.com (8.8.5/8.8.5) id MAA02203 for cozy_builders-list; Wed, 24 Mar 1999 12:13:34 -0500 X-Authentication-Warning: twc2.betaweb.com: majordomo set sender to owner-cozy_builders@betaweb.com using -f Received: from hawk.prod.itd.earthlink.net (hawk.prod.itd.earthlink.net [207.217.120.22]) by twc2.betaweb.com (8.8.5/8.8.5) with ESMTP id MAA02196 for ; Wed, 24 Mar 1999 12:13:29 -0500 Received: from earthlink.net (ip133.fort-myers3.fl.pub-ip.psi.net [38.30.206.133]) by hawk.prod.itd.earthlink.net (8.8.7/8.8.5) with ESMTP id IAA00790; Wed, 24 Mar 1999 08:59:40 -0800 (PST) Message-ID: <36F91A15.73B8BEFF@earthlink.net> Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 11:00:17 -0600 From: David Domeier X-Mailer: Mozilla 4.5 (Macintosh; U; PPC) X-Accept-Language: en MIME-Version: 1.0 To: Tom Brusehaver CC: cozy_builders@canard.com Subject: Re: COZY: CH 9 true confessions References: <199903240008.SAA27532@cozy.core.wamnet.com.wamnet.com> <36F839E6.4034CB5F@bellsouth.net> <199903241425.IAA04892@cozy.core.wamnet.com.wamnet.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; x-mac-type="54455854"; x-mac-creator="4D4F5353" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Sender: owner-cozy_builders@betaweb.com Precedence: bulk Reply-To: David Domeier X-UIDL: eb9ba9f9747a6dd8fbdd8034b37de08d Tom, re "Good thanks, I hate it when I do dumb things, I feel kinda all alone." You're not alone. Years back, while building a LEZ, I went to OSH to look at airplanes. I had just completed attaching the lower winglets and noticed everyone's lower winglets looked strange compared to mine. At first reflection I figured everyone but me had screwed up...but I finally decided I had screwed up since Burt's airplane also looked strange. After returning home I quietly, late at night when no one was around, took a hack saw and sawed the lower winglets off and moved the left one to the right side and the right one to the left side. Now my airplane had that same strange look as everyone else's. dd From: Cozy7971@aol.com Date: Wed, 24 Mar 1999 11:45:45 EST Subject: Re: COZY: Landing brake In a message dated 99-03-22 18:18:34 EST, lwhicks@erols.com writes: << I worried too, but guess what, it's very easy to pop the hinge loose from the flox. >> I second that. I would suggest that you put some box sealing tape on the hinge--it helps keep the pieces clean. Dick Finn Cozy Mark IV #46 Date: Tue, 20 Apr 1999 21:32:15 +0200 From: C van Hoof Subject: COZY: Chapter 9 LG woes Hi Folks, No 219, in the workshop, needs some advice, looks like i can't work a tapemeasure or any other tool for that matter. My LG does not want to fit the bulkhead holes. on checking found the following (don't know why not earlier) the alignment of the studs thru' the LG tabs is out by 1/8" - opens out forward. What i can't understand is: the LG was positioned in the bulkheads, and the holes were elongated to suit this arrangement - all fitted. The Alum squares were positioned/floxed with the holes drilled after the above. there was no play on the LG sleeve to the stud and it got placed/floxed in this position. I overdrilled the S/S sleeves that go thru the Alum Squares but had others machined to suit the larger diameter hole. For the last few days NOTHING FITS. I'm sure that if i use a 5lb hammer it'll go in, but it somehow should slide in firmly, without force, not so? DO I ? remove the tabs and redo from there. redo the alum squares. the whole lot. Did you guys battle just as much? or was it easy? any advice - other than giving up :-) thanks Chris #219 in south africa Date: Wed, 21 Apr 1999 08:16:14 +0200 From: "Rego Burger" Subject: COZY: Chapter 9 LG woes To Chris and others: >>>My LG does not want to fit the bulkhead holes. on checking found the following (don't know why not earlier) the alignment of the studs thru' the LG tabs is out by 1/8" - opens out forward.<<< The ideal is to have the two studs parrallel but even if they are not fitting is a matter of lining the tubes in the tabs with the bushes in the hardpoints on the fuselage ...this is your primary goal. It will be far easier to move one or two bush points in the bulkhead than to cut the tabs and move the tubes on the gear. Start by fitting one stud through then check to see which of the studs on the other side must move. If you have floxed them in a 150 watt soldering iron can be used to heat them up to soften the epoxy at tap them out with a undersized socket. Once the bushes are out mount the gear on the remaining stud again and check the alignment visually. You can then decide how you are going to refit the bushes. You can remake the square 2024 pads that carry the crush loading if the alignment is out by more than 1/16". Keep the 4 AN4 bolt holes the same but ofset the bushing hole to assist a good mate. Just keep it simple. Work on one side instead of try to do both. Rego Burger RSA Chris phone me for a longer chat. From: "Nat Puffer" Subject: Re: COZY: Ch 9 : Main strut shape Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 09:15:43 -0500 John, The landing gear struts are post cured out of the mold and can change shape slightly. I believe mine were a little out also. Compensate when making the tabs. You can do this by removing a little of the material on the side that touches first, until both sides touch equally. There is also a little leeway in locating the axles on the end of the strut. And if worst comes to worst, and the wheels are not both at the same fuselage station, then your airplane will be more like Burt's boomerang. Nat ---------- > From: John Slade > To: Cozy Builders > Subject: COZY: Ch 9 : Main strut shape > Date: Tuesday, May 11, 1999 10:06 AM > > Builders who've done chapter 9 - I have a problem. > When I lean my strut against the verticle (double checked) flat (double > checked) plywood per plans the strut touches on one side, but is about 3/16 > away on the other. The floor is level (double checked), and the legs are > parallel (double checked) to the board. The strut is the same width at the > touch point. I seem to be faced with a 3 possibilities. > 1. Let the legs be 3/16 out of alignment > 2. Compensate when making the tabs > 3. send the strut back after working on it for two days > > I really dont like the sound of choice 3. > > Any suggestions would be appreciated. In the meantime I'm going to > disassemble my "box" and check everything again. > Regards, > John Slade, Cozy #757 > > Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 10:47 -0500 (CDT) From: Michael Pollock Subject: Re: COZY: Ch 9 : Main strut shape John Slade wrote: >Builders who've done chapter 9 - I have a problem. >When I lean my strut against the verticle (double checked) flat (double >checked) plywood per plans the strut touches on one side, but is about 3/16 >away on the other. My Featherlite strut was also off by 1/4 inch. I did not worry because I compensated on both the tab hole location and the location of the axle to place the wheels in the correct locations. You will not notice any problem in tracking as long as your toe-in is correct. Michael.Pollock@mci.com Flying Velocity N173DT Building Cozy MKIV #643 From: "John Slade" Subject: COZY: Ch 9 main strut shape Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 12:06:05 -0400 Please ignore my last message. Its not the strut that's twisted, it's my brain - and the "straight edge" I have now cut into very tiny pieces. Perhaps the heat & humidity is getting to both me and my tools. John Slade Date: Tue, 11 May 1999 13:22:59 -0400 From: Neil Clayton Subject: COZY: Tool accuracy John Slade wrote; >Its not the strut that's twisted, it's my brain - and the "straight edge" I >have now cut into very tiny pieces. Perhaps the heat & humidity is getting >to both me and my tools. I had a similar problem with "Home Depot" straight edges. The inch markings between the three straight edges I own are all over the place. I only realised it when I found FS 0 had about 1/8" error from the F22 datum face. Now I just use them as straight edges, not measuring devices. Neil C From: "John Slade" Subject: COZY: Ch 9, main strut - stupid human tricks Date: Wed, 12 May 1999 10:16:54 -0400 Yesterday I had a minor accident with my main strut. I doubt that many builders will repeat my stupid trick, but I thought I'd post this, just in case.... My strut was and box was upside down on the bench. I needed to put it back on the floor right side up. I picked up the box with my fingers between the spacers intending to rotate it gently and lower it to the floor. Physics took over. The weight and moment of the legs makes the strut want to rotate QUICKLY. As soon as I started the rotation physics over, the strut rotated out of control over my head and the knuckles of two fingers on my right hand found themselves at an angle rapidly exceeding 270 degrees. I dropped the strut and just managed to extract my fingers before breaking them. Got a pretty nasty strain, though. I wont be sanding anything (or even typing) with those two fingers for a week or two. Another small step in the great learning experience! Thanks to those who responded concerning my main strut shape. The problem was resolved when I triple checked everything. I had thought it was going to be a good day. John Slade Cozy MkIV #757 From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 16:23:43 -0500 (CDT) Subject: Re: COZY: Cleveland spacer On 05/21/99 07:48:56 you wrote: > >Hi all, > >I'm in trouble with a small problem. >Could any one give me the part number of AIRCRAFT SPRUCE for the 1/4" >cleveland spacer needed for heavy duty breakes. Wicks one is P/N A484, but i >want to try ASS for a time at least. . I can't find it on the on line >catalog. > >Thanks for your help > > > > > > for 5.00x5 axles with Cleveland 199-152 heavy duty discs, 7/16" wide spacer, p/n 11716-2. one per axle required @ $4.20 ea. Still need one per axle p/n 11716 @ $3.50 ea. From: FLYCOZY@aol.com Date: Fri, 21 May 1999 22:03:35 EDT Subject: Re: COZY: Cleveland spacer Hi all, With respect to the breaks... and i know that this has been a widely discussed topic. I am a firm believer in the 6' wheels and break kit from Wicks or Aircraft Spruce... it is not only $100 cheaper than the 5' wheels and breaks, but offers 3 times the stopping power vs. the 5' inchers. After flying numerous Cozy Mark IV's, it is my opinion and only my opinion that the heavy duty breaks and the 6' inch wheels are the best choice for both economics and "ground handling". Currently i am building a Mark IV,,,, if you choose to install the 6 inchers... the inside of the strut diminsion (when laying on the table) should be 91 inches. And then use the 1.5 x 600 x 6 tires. I use velocity's wheel pants ($150). just my $.02 Dennis From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 04:57:37 -0500 (CDT) Subject: Re: COZY: Cleveland spacer Was said 6" brakes preferred to 5" Whats the weight difference, and does the larger size have a speed and takeoff length penalty? If the axle holes are the same, it would be nice if someone could flight test both and tell us the results. Possibly one could lend a set of brakes of the other type before they are flying for a few days. Date: Sat, 22 May 1999 12:18:09 -0700 From: "LCDR James D. Newman" Subject: COZY: Re: Cleveland spacer Hi All, > > Was said 6" brakes preferred to 5" > Whats the weight difference, and does the larger size have a speed and takeoff length penalty? This was discussed in great length Nov. 06, 1997, and somewhat before and after this date - see archive's. > If the axle holes are the same, it would be nice if someone could flight test both and tell us the results. Possibly one could > lend a set of brakes of the other type before they are flying for a few days. Unfortunately, the bolt hole patterns are not the same. But you might be able to fit and drill an extra set of bolt holes just to try this :-( . Then fix (flox & glass) the holes later :-( . Infinity's Forever, JD Date: Fri, 04 Jun 1999 09:22:11 -0500 From: David Domeier Subject: COZY: Hot brake insulation... I am using a product from ACS that works very well in shielding the main gear strut from a hot brake disk. Two days ago I shot 3 full stop landings in 20 minutes with fairly hard braking and managed to warm up the disks to where a shot of cleaning fluid (mostly water) turned to steam instantly as I was removing dead bugs from the airplane. The material is 3M Sound and Vibration Dampening Tape. (part #09-30200, page 298, 98-99' catalogue). I cut a strip about the width of the disk and taped it to the strut just abeam the brake system and also secured with one high temp black tie wrap. The strut was shielded completely from the disk heat. I also use this stuff abeam the exhaust stacks on the inside of the cowling. The outside cowling is cool to touch with a very hot pipe inside. dd Date: Sat, 17 Jul 1999 16:50:54 +0200 From: C van Hoof Subject: COZY: Chapter 09 Landing gear Hio Group, Having just finished aligning the LG studs and bushes, i'm now ready to flox this lot into place. in the LG bulkheads. Since I had to do some adjusting, i'm left with some play - On one bush this is as much as 1mm (just under 1/16") can i just flox this in or is there some more drastic remedy to cure this gap? I thought maybe a structural adhesive (with flox) could do a better job? (thinking: to use this ipo the epoxy laminating resin) Any thoughts or opinions, will be appreciated Chris Cozy Mk IV 219 - nearly out of chapter nine From: "Nat Puffer" Subject: Re: COZY: Landing brake, allowance for some engine cooling airflow Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 06:15:26 -0000 Builders, If you use the landing brake as it was intended (to increase the drag on final to allow a steeper angle of descent), you will not have any problem. It should not be deployed for takeoff, and is not intended to be used to let down 40 miles away from an airport. A long EZ builder with an electric actuator a couple of years back used it to let down through clouds. He blew a fuse, couldn't retract it, and burned his engine up trying to get back to the airport. A good example of what happens when you violate the intent of a design. Follow the plans, use the airplane as intended, and you will have an excellent, safe, high-performance airplane. Regards, Nat ---------- > From: Todd Carrico > To: cozy_builders@canard.com > Subject: RE: COZY: Landing brake, allowance for some engine cooling airflow > Date: Friday, July 23, 1999 12:46 PM > > My understanding of the NACA duct is that boundary layer control is > important to getting it to work properly. That big brake hanging out there > would not do much for keeping the boundary layer in good shape for the duct > entry. Any improvement would be desirable, the question is how much > improvement can we expect? Could we make things worse? > > tc > > -----Original Message----- > From: Brian & Susan DeFord [mailto:brian@deford.com] > Sent: Thursday, July 22, 1999 9:14 PM > To: cozy_builders@canard.com > Subject: Re: COZY: Landing brake, allowance for some engine cooling > airflow > > > You aren't alone in thinking this would be a good idea. I've often wondered > the same thing and think it could help. I'm not sure how much cooling air > needs to get through, but any amount is better than none. I'm considering > playing with the idea after I get my plane flying so that I can compare the > plans built version against any variation. > > Brian DeFord > http://www.deford.com/cozy > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Dana Hill > To: > Sent: Thursday, July 22, 1999 6:24 PM > Subject: COZY: Landing brake, allowance for some engine cooling airflow > > > > Just had a stray idea and wondered if anyone else has given it any > > thought; would it be a reasonable, workable modification to cut out a > > semicircular or rectangular section from the center hinge side of the > > landing brake(LB) to allow for some improvement in the airflow into the > > NACA duct/cowling when the LB is deployed? Was just thinking about that > > old well discussed issue of what happens when your elec. accuator fails > > at the worst possible time. > > D. Hill > > CZ #676 > > Ch 6 > > > > From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com Date: Thu, 22 Jul 1999 21:00:49 -0500 (CDT) Subject: Re: COZY: Landing brake, allowance for some engine cooling airflow A good reason to stick with the manual lever. Another is, it should retract if there is excessive speed. From: Fritzx2@aol.com Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 10:12:03 EDT Subject: Re: COZY: Landing brake, allowance for some engine cooling airflow >Was just thinking about that old well discussed issue of what happens when >your elec. accuator fails at the worst possible time. >D. Hill I have an electric brake actuctuator. I am planning on rigging a cable that will pull a safety pin that will disconnect the air brake actuator from the back of the seat mount and then further pulling on the cable will pull the actuator and air brake up if the the air brake fails down because of an actuator failure or power failure. The cable will have a handle in the front seat with a hook to hold the cable so that I don't have to continue holding it up which could distract me from flying the plane. The air loads will help close the air brake so that shouldn't be a problem. I know this is additional complexity and there are those that will say why not just make it by the plans but a fair number of people have gone the electric actuator route and I think this is a slight improvement towards that end. Be carefull to make sure all parts that come apart are retained inside the fuselage so that no parts fall through the fuse bottom opening and head towards the big fan or the big fan air intake (carb or TBI). Haven't flown this system or tried it yet, but that's my plan. John Fritz fritzx2@aol.com Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 14:02:37 -0500 From: David Domeier Subject: Re: COZY: Landing brake, allowance for some engine cooling airflow Todd, re " Any improvement would be desirable, the question is how much improvement can we expect? Could we make things worse?" There's no way we can have a speed brake on the bottom of this airplane and not screw up the air flow into the engine. It's only purpose is permit a steeper approach angle in lieu of flaps and/or quickly lose a bit of airspeed just before touch down. Never, never, plan on using it any other time because the engine will get cooked if the brake can not be retracted even at idle power. With any head wind at all, you will not need to use for landing. I wouldn't waste any time trying to redesign the board. It serves it's purpose as is and unless you're thinking of relocating it, press on and get air borne sooner than later. dd From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 17:28:37 -0500 (CDT) Subject: Re: COZY: Landing brake, allowance for some engine cooling airflow Fritzx said Better plan on high loads on that pin to move it. Just thinking what it takes to hold your hand out in the air at highway speeds, plus the leverage to the short arm where the actuator is mounted. It wouldn't surprise me that the shear on the bolt is of magnitude several hundred pounds, then with a reasonable coefficient of friction of 0.3, the required force to pull the pin could be 60 lbs, and I might be off by 100% with this off the top of the head thinking. P.S. no parts want to become loose, with the propeller aft. From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com Date: Fri, 23 Jul 1999 17:39:38 -0500 (CDT) Subject: Re: COZY: Landing brake, allowance for some engine cooling airflow was said I Like all the drag I can get with the brake deployed. Don't make smaller. Manual works just fine! I got over 700 hours on it. Last plane I flew with flaps had hydraulic power with a little lever on the panel. I don't come near to objecting to the lever. And I don't worry about engine heat when, not if the electric should fail. From: "John Slade" Subject: COZY: Chap 9 Landing Brake actuator Date: Thu, 29 Jul 1999 21:04:03 -0400 Builders, Don Bowen kindly sent me some nice pictures of his electric landing brake installation. I've posted them at http://kgarden.com/cozy/donspics.htm John Slade Cozy MKIV #757 http://kgarden.com/cozy From: ArleeB1@aol.com Date: Wed, 4 Aug 1999 17:27:21 EDT Subject: COZY: Re: gear beef-up ? Hi Everybody: I'm going to beef up my main landing gear on my long EZ and I thought I'd just add a couple plies of carbon graphite uni around the stock long EZ gear. Any thoughts, Ideas, or suggestions on beefing up both the main and nose gear would be helpful. Thanks, Gary at Tahoe From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com Date: Wed, 4 Aug 1999 20:31:36 -0500 (CDT) Subject: Re: COZY: Re: gear beef-up ? On 08/04/99 17:27:21 you wrote: > >Hi Everybody: I'm going to beef up my main landing gear on my long EZ and I >thought I'd just add a couple plies of carbon graphite uni around the stock >long EZ gear. Any thoughts, Ideas, or suggestions on beefing up both the >main and nose gear would be helpful. Thanks, Gary at Tahoe > I'd question the use of graphite. The glass and graphite reach their breaking strain (elongation or stretch per inch) at significantly different points. If I have it right, the graphite will require much more strain to reach it's allowable maximum stress (load per unit area). Then to use the graphite will not be stressed to its maximum, and the fiberglass could be at its breaking point anyway. The two materials will experience essentially the same strain since they will be adjacent to each other at the interface, and the thin layer thickness of the graphite will not significantly get more strain in bending. If it was mine I would stick to like materials, and then consider the direction of loading and the crossection. Most (and I don't know various peoples expertice) people unless trained in structural engineering, and either doing an analysis or have full scale test specimens available are not competent to make meaningful changes. Unless there is a specific situation, many longs are flying with no problems. If the aircraft is flying, its likely that the weak point may be buried inside the fuselage and would require removing the mounting tabs to reinforce in a functional way. From: Lee810@aol.com Date: Thu, 5 Aug 1999 02:51:15 EDT Subject: Re: COZY: Re: gear beef-up ? In a message dated 8/4/99 7:34:10 PM Mountain Daylight Time, cdenk@ix.netcom.com writes: > I'd question the use of graphite. The glass and graphite reach their breaking > strain (elongation or stretch per inch) at > significantly different points. Even more important than the differences in tensile strengths are the moduli of elasticity of the materials. When moduli are significantly different for the two materials, the stiffer of the two will essentially carry the entire load, much like a foam/glass sandwich. Since graphite is much stiffer than glass, the graphite will carry the majority of the load until it fractures and you'll be left with the glass carrying the load again. In this application, the fiberglass behaves like a heavy core material. You would probably be better off just adding more plies of fiberglass. The bending stiffness of the gear will increase in proportion to the cube of the overall gear thickness so adding a little goes a long way. Lee Devlin Greeley, CO From: "Nat Puffer" Subject: Re: COZY: Re: gear beef-up ? Date: Thu, 5 Aug 1999 06:47:09 -0000 Builders, Adding carbon is a mistake. It is too stiff for a landing gear and won't share the load with glass. The Long EZ gear is plenty strong for the Long EZ. The 4-place gear is half way between the Long EZ and Defiant, which had a 3400 lb gross. Build according to plans and stop imagining imaginary problems. Nat ---------- > From: ArleeB1@aol.com > To: UgoliniNJ@efdsouth.navfac.navy.mil; owner-canard-aviators@betaweb.com; canard-aviators@canard.com; cozy_builders@canard.com > Subject: COZY: Re: gear beef-up ? > Date: Wednesday, August 04, 1999 9:27 PM > > Hi Everybody: I'm going to beef up my main landing gear on my long EZ and I > thought I'd just add a couple plies of carbon graphite uni around the stock > long EZ gear. Any thoughts, Ideas, or suggestions on beefing up both the > main and nose gear would be helpful. Thanks, Gary at Tahoe From: "chuck brantley" Subject: COZY: landing gear wrap Date: Thu, 5 Aug 1999 19:41:48 -0500 Hello group, Just got back from Oshkosh, my first trip. It was great to meet Nat and Shirley. The cozy dinner was very nice. It was fun to watch Nat"s reaction to the twin cozy guys. They were by far the best act in the room. I hope they made it back to south america alive! Thanks to those who put the dinner togeether. I checked the archives and could not find the info I needed about the first 4 layer uni gear wrap. I think I am supposed to wrap the uni around the trailing edge of the gear which will leave a seem along the leading edge.after cure I will sand the leading edge to expose the s glass and make a smooth transition to the uni lay-up. How much of the leading edge do you expose? Thanks in advance, Chuck Brantley MKIV plans #738 Las Vegas NV. Date: Thu, 05 Aug 1999 23:46:35 -0400 From: "Marc J. Zeitlin" Subject: Fwd: COZY: landing gear wrap chuck brantley writes; >I checked the archives...... Yay! >...... and could not find the info I needed about the first >4 layer uni gear wrap...... Boo, hiss. The owner of the FAQ will have to ensure that this point gets into the Chap. 9 section :-). >....... How much of the leading edge do you expose? Not critical (generally, if something IS critical, the plans will say so. If they don't, just use your judgement [or the judgement of those here :-)] ). Just layup the UNI so that it comes close to meeting on the leading edge. When you break the gear free from the nails, you'll have to trim and sand the UNI wrap smooth so that the next wrap will lay flat. Don't worry about exactly how much S-glass is visible - just make a smooth transition near the L.E. -- Marc J. Zeitlin mailto:marcz@ultranet.com http://www.ultranet.com/~marcz/ From: FLYCOZY@aol.com Date: Thu, 21 Oct 1999 23:17:25 EDT Subject: COZY: Re Dragging brakes/ Filling Reservoirs Fellow builders The other day I was out doing one of my first taxi test with the new mark IV N 92VT. I taxied at about 45 mph down the runway to set the brake pads and then did a 180 turn on the runway and started taxing back to the hangar. I noticed the left brake Cleveland 199/133 heavy duty with 6 in wheels did'nt feel quite right. I first thought it's a crosswind on the runway and I have to brake slightly to keep going down the runwaycenterline. After a couple of hundred feet more and after I turned off the runway I knew I had a brake dragging. Then I remembered, when I filled the brakes from the bottom. I did'nt leave any room for exspanstion in the brake reservoirs. I filled them all the way to the top and just put the caps on. What happened was when the brake disk got warm and expanded it could'nt push the caliper back. I stopped as soon as I noticed that their was a problem removed the cover on the nose took the caps off the reservoirs to relieve the pressure and they worked perfect. Then I removed a small amount of oil from the reservoir so they are only 2/3 full brake fluid and drilled a number 50 hole in the reservoir cap to vent it. I had been throught the same experience with my 3 place cozy I just had'nt done it yet to the Mark IV. There was no harm done. I just wanted to pass along the info to the guys that are using the lay down master cylinders A 600 that I think they should be vented. The very least don't full the reservoirs all the way to the top. When I fill the brakes for the first time or any time I need to bleed them I use a rather large oil can the kind ya pump with your thumb "you know like the one scarecrow used on the tin man in the WIZARD OF OZ" . Round up a piece of clear tygon 1/8 in ID. tubing obout 6.ft long and fill the oil can with the good brake fluid. It should look like cranberry juice. Pump slowly and you'll be able to see if their is any air in the hose cause it's clear , remove the cap on the reservoir , open the fitting on the bottom of the caliper and attach the hose full of cranberry juice to the bottom of the caliper pump till the reservoir is 2/3 full. With the 6 in wheel and big brakes this plane handles like a dream , so much better than the brakes I have on the 3 place Cozy. It's like going from a Chevrolet to a Lexus. If you want to stop they will stop you!! NOW. My opinion is that the 5 in wheels and heavy duty brakes called for in the plans are inadequate for stopping and stearing a heavy loaded Mark IV at max gross wt of 2050 lbs. And those who have the smaller wheels and brakes should change them to the larger ones. All the builders that have them really like them and were glad they put them on. Koster, Merrill and I. Just my opionion. Dennis Oelmann From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com Date: Fri, 22 Oct 1999 17:56:06 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: COZY: Re Dragging brakes/ Filling Reservoirs What brand and model of cylinders were those, my Clevelands have vent holes in the pipe plug fill point. From: Wayne Hicks Subject: COZY: landing gear wrap FAQ Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 10:56:02 -0400 -----Original Message----- From: Marc J. Zeitlin [mailto:marcz@ultranet.com] Sent: Thursday, August 05, 1999 11:47 PM To: Cozy Builders Mailing List Subject: Fwd: COZY: landing gear wrap -->chuck brantley writes: >How much of the leading edge do you expose? I checked the archives and could not find the info I needed about the first >4 layer uni gear wrap. >marc zeitlin responds: >Boo, hiss. The owner of the FAQ will have to ensure that this point gets >into the Chap. 9 section :-). (it's) Not critical Just layup the UNI so that it comes close to meeting on the leading edge. To which wayne hicks further responds: Your wish is my command! bil kleb has already contacted me for the changes! I agree with Marc, it's not critical, just get the edges close without overlap. Actually, an overlap is not critical either from a structural standpoint, but try not to do that. Else, you'll end up with the ugly bump and you'll spend an hour or so sanding it back out. The gear legs are airfoils and you want a smooth, nice-looking leading edge. From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 17:20:14 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: COZY: landing gear wrap FAQ Was said Not sure exactly whats happening, but, if these are UNI at a 45 degree, that seems to indicate to me that they are there to resist torsion (twisting) due to the wheel center not being in line with the strut center. With torsion the line of force (stresses) are maximum at corners, therefore the plys should continue around the corner, and lap the fiberglass adequately to develop the strength of the UNI per standard lapping practice (usually 1" overlap per ply). I would suggest that that lap be all one side of the point of maximum stress (the corner), and not the lap centered on the corner. From: "Randel & Nancy Livingood" Subject: RE: COZY: Landing gear wrap. Date: Tue, 26 Oct 1999 17:53:57 -0700 It's funny you should mention that. When I did my lay-ups for the landing gear I also thought they had to overlap and even tried a dry run at wrapping the two strips of fiberglass like a helix to get them to overlap. I guess I really needed some fresh eyes and to read the directions over a few times before I figured out that you drape the fiberglass over the landing gear like you are folding it in half length wise. For what it's worth, Randel -----Original Message----- From: owner-cozy_builders@betaweb.com [mailto:owner-cozy_builders@betaweb.com]On Behalf Of Nat Puffer Sent: Tuesday, October 26, 1999 2:00 PM To: Cozy_builders@canard.com Subject: COZY: Landing gear wrap. Builders, I guess it is time for the designer to speak up. As is shown on Chapter 9, page 2, Figure 8, the first wrap of 4 plies of UND does not go completely around the leading edge, nor do the 4 plies overlap themselves. The instructions and the figures should be self-explanatory. Just follow the plans and everything will turn out just right. Best regards, Nat Date: Fri, 29 Oct 1999 14:31:23 -0700 From: "LCDR James D. Newman" Subject: COZY: Re: Dragging brakes/ Filling Reservoirs Hi Dennis and All, > Dennis Oelmann wrote: > It should look like cranberry juice. Just learned this recently from hydraulic experts: to filter ALL hydraulic and transmission fluids even though it's fresh out of the bottle. There's contaminants in the brand new container some times too. Use a very fine paint strainer. > With the 6 in wheel and big brakes this plane handles like a dream , so > much better than the brakes I have on the 3 place Cozy. It's like going > from a Chevrolet to a Lexus. If you want to stop they will stop you!! NOW. > My opinion is that the 5 in wheels and heavy duty brakes called for in the > plans are inadequate for stopping and stearing a heavy loaded Mark IV at max > gross wt of 2050 lbs. And those who have the smaller wheels and brakes > should change them to the larger ones. Very true! This has been talked about quit a bit over the past few years (see the archives). That's why most on the group that are building and at that stage already have the 5.00 x 5 MATCO wheels and brakes. In a nut shell, for those who don't know, the well proven and documented 3 puck 5.00 x 5 MATCO W51LT wheels and brakes are more than enough stopping force without adding extra cost, weight and drag of buying the low profile 1500-6.00 x 6 wheels, brakes and tires. In fact, the 3 puck 5.00 x 5 MATCO W51LT wheels and brakes have more stopping force than many models of 6.00 x 6 size wheels and brakes. But if you want 6.00 x 6, MATCO has that size too (again a waist of extra bucks, weight and drag), but the stopping force is no greater than the 5.00 x 5 size that MATCO has. Infinity's Forever, JD From: DasherIII@cs.com Date: Sat, 30 Oct 1999 15:06:15 EDT Subject: COZY: (no subject) I have a question about cutting out the landing brake from the 3/8inch foam. How do you start the cut with the saber saw without chewing up the foam and keeping the ~45 degree angle? Will Dasher Cozy MkIV #0709 Memphis, TN From: "Larry & Jenny Schuler" Subject: Re: COZY: Landing brake cutout Date: Sun, 31 Oct 1999 08:26:51 -0600 > I have a question about cutting out the landing brake from the 3/8inch foam. > How do you start the cut with the saber saw without chewing up the foam and > keeping the ~45 degree angle? Start with a razor saw by hand, then switch to saber. Larry Date: Fri, 03 Dec 1999 21:02:33 -0600 From: David Domeier Subject: COZY: Tire Balance with "Equal" Oshkosh 98 had a forum on balancing tires with some liquid stuff I had never heard of before or since. I thought it was a great idea at the time and had not forgotten about it but could not find my notes on the forum or remember what it was called. This week I finally got around to making a few inquiries about it. Local auto tire stores know about it but do not sell it. I found one truck tire store that sold a similar product but it was a powder, not liquid. I decided to try it since in cost only $4. Here's a little of what the company says about it: "Since its introduction in 1991, EQUAL has been installed in millions of truck tires. And more than 3,000 commercial tire dealers, truckstops, truck dealerships and alignment shops in North America offer EQUAL. A comparative vibration study performed at the Transportation Research Center (T.R.C.) test tracks in East Liberty, Ohio found EQUAL to reduce vibration in truck tires 20 percent better than lead weight balancing." The product is a dry granular polymer formula. It is supposed to be installed with their installation tool which costs $325. I opted to figure out how to get it installed myself rather than buy the installation tool. First problem was there is no stated amount to install in a 600X6 tire. The smallest tire the dealer had listed is a 16" wheel which requires 3 ounces. (I've sent a e-mail to the company asking for info on how much will work in the 600X6 tire.) Meanwhile, I decided to wag it. With a postage scale, I measured 1 ounce of the stuff, which is like very fine sand but lighter, and installed it with a new turkey baster ($1.78) and some quarter inch plastic tubing. It took a little doing but I got it in without removing the wheel from the airplane. Another problem with this stuff is it can get in the valve stem core and cause a leak. I had a slight leak on the right side after reinstalling the core but stopped it with a metal cap and some plumbers tread seal. I was in the process of flight checking this material when the nose gear mishap occurred. Today I got back to that task. I had some slight vibration between 60-40 kts on deceleration before, today I had none. It may just be wishful thinking, but it does seem to make for a smoother running wheel. Has anyone else tried Equal or the liquid stuff? dd From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com Date: Sat, 4 Dec 1999 08:08:04 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: COZY: Tire Balance with "Equal" Haven't tried any of the liquid stuff, but do balance mains and nose tires when mounting new ones. Use the stick on automotive weights. For the nose use a 5/16" rod, and 1.25" rod for the mains as axles. I clamp a pair of 1/8" thick angles, legs upward, to my bench top, cantilevering out into space. With a tire on the angles, I level the angle tops. Its important to take the splop out of the tapered bearings, I use some masking tape wraped around the rod (hope to make an axle with a better situation). Use automotive stick on "Mag" wheel weights available at your local tire dealer. Usually I have some scrap weights available that with masking tape I do a trial balance, and then cut the strip weight to the correct weight. Occasionaly I end up with 2 rows of weigh on the mains, remembering that when the weight covers more than 90 degrees of arc, the weight is not very effective. The extreme of this would be weights at 180 degrees would cancel each other. Note that the weight is added to the high point when the tire stops rolling. Date: Wed, 22 Dec 1999 18:47:26 -0600 From: Michael Link Subject: Re: COZY: Brake line issues alwick@juno.com wrote: > Well, looks like I blew it. I put drink straws in my main gear legs too > small to accomodate both the stock 3/16" brake line and my sensor wires. > I really liked the ideas kicked around about replacing the brake lines > with 1/8" od alum tubing. Is anyone out there actually operating their > plane with this modified line? Is 1/8" alum 5052 the correct material? > HI, Steve Wright and I have been considering 1/8" stainless (probably 316) . Although it weighs more it has superior strength, better heat resistance, and is very ductile. If I use it I will be sure to include a small loop near the caliper to allow for movement without inducing metal fatigue. I plan to use metal lines only between the wheel cylinder and the landing gear bulkhead. The reason that I am considering doing this is that I had a brake overheat and damage the plastic brake line by heat CONDUCTION through the brake cylinder (not radiated heat from the rotor). What do you think? Regards, Michael Link COZY MK-IV N-171-ML Date: Wed, 22 Dec 1999 15:13:21 -0800 From: Marc Parmelee Subject: Re: COZY: Brake line issues You might want to consider -3 Teflon core with braided stainless steel brake lines. I got my from BSR Products (800)432-2798, they sell a 48" set of two with female swivel both ends for about $35. You just connect this line to the plastic line in the hell hole, works great. You won't find a safer way of running you brake lines, unless you run the entire brake lines this way. Marc Parmelee If you are using the Matco plastic lines which are a little bigger than the standard lines, use the Mc Donald's soda straws, they work great. alwick@juno.com wrote: > Well, looks like I blew it. I put drink straws in my main gear legs too > small to accomodate both the stock 3/16" brake line and my sensor wires. > I really liked the ideas kicked around about replacing the brake lines > with 1/8" od alum tubing. Is anyone out there actually operating their > plane with this modified line? Is 1/8" alum 5052 the correct material? > > Also, what's a good way to bleed the brake lines? I got air in them when > I flipped the plane to finish the bottom. I assume the ol' auto method > won't work? You know, open lower brake outlet while pressing on pedal. > > I've got all my instruments installed, except can't find reasonable > priced transponder. Anyone with ideas? > > Thanks a bunch. > > -al wick > Canopy Latch System guy. > Artificial intelligence in cockpit, powered by Subaru. > Now wiring. Aug 2000 first flight scheduled > > ___________________________________________________________________ > Why pay more to get Web access? > Try Juno for FREE -- then it's just $9.95/month if you act NOW! > Get your free software today: http://dl.www.juno.com/dynoget/tagj. From: Militch@aol.com Date: Wed, 22 Dec 1999 14:48:36 EST Subject: Re: COZY: Brake line issues In a message dated 12/22/99 7:38:42 PM, alwick@juno.com wrote: >Also, what's a good way to bleed the brake lines? I got air in them when >I flipped the plane to finish the bottom. I assume the ol' auto method >won't work? You know, open lower brake outlet while pressing on pedal. Get a reverse bleeder from your local auto parts store or on-line parts store, and push the fluid uphill from the calipers. Regards From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com Date: Wed, 22 Dec 1999 17:53:16 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: COZY: Brake line issues I thought the 1/8" metal brake line material is stainless steel. I would be concerned with this small diameter tubing fatigueing and cracking. Date: Sun, 19 Dec 1999 16:34:54 -0600 From: David Domeier Subject: COZY: Re: [c-a] Tire Balance with "Equal" Stet, re "Any thoughts??" I've got about a dozen landings since installing an ounce of the stuff in each main tire. The vibration I used to feel during roll out at 60-40 knots is now very smooth, but there is some "chatter" type vibration down around 20 knots which may be the brakes. I think the stuff helps - it sure hasn't made it worse. What's weird is I never feel anything on take off, just after landing. dd From: alwick@juno.com Date: Fri, 24 Dec 1999 07:13:34 -0800 Subject: Re: COZY: Brake line issues On Wed, 22 Dec 1999 18:47:26 -0600 Michael Link writes: > Steve Wright and I have been considering 1/8" stainless (probably 316) . I think I'll go with the same material. Sure appreciate all the off-line responses to my queries. I had totally forgotten how effective bleeding brakes using oil can and plastic tube is. Someone asked about technique to increase size of brake conduit. I'd recommend taking small diam alum tube, or drill rod. Place small slot at end. Insert sand paper in slot and roll it around tube till you get close to conduit diam. Use drill motor to ream the conduit. I've used similar method for other purposes. Haven't done it yet on cozy. Once again, thanks for all the thoughtful responses. Merry xmas! -al wick Canopy Latch System guy. Artificial intelligence in cockpit, powered by Subaru. Now wiring. Aug 2000 first flight scheduled ________________________________________________________________ YOU'RE PAYING TOO MUCH FOR THE INTERNET! Juno now offers FREE Internet Access! Try it today - there's no risk! For your FREE software, visit: http://dl.www.juno.com/get/tagj.