From: wkasty@ix.netcom.com Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 08:37:09 -0600 (CST) Subject: COZY: Chapter14 spar bulkheads My inside spar layups are completed. I was wondering if the CS5 and CS6 bulkheads should be drilled through for wiring later. Does the wingtip wiring travel through the spar? or does it pass through somewhere else? I don't see reference to this in the plans, just the hotwire hole towards the front of the wing cores. Bill Kastenholz wkasty@ix.netcom.com CozyMKIV#536 From: Marc J. Zeitlin Subject: COZY: Chapter14 spar bulkheads Date: Tue, 31 Mar 98 12:00:55 EST Bill Kastenholz writes; > My inside spar layups are completed. I was wondering >if the CS5 and CS6 bulkheads should be drilled through for >wiring later. Does the wingtip wiring travel through the >spar? or does it pass through somewhere else? I don't see >reference to this in the plans, just the hotwire hole towards >the front of the wing cores. I wish that I had made some holes in these bulkheads (at least the inside ones - the ends are easy to get at) before I had glassed the whole spar together. It's going to be a pain to make some clean holes for the antennae and wingtip light wiring. Doable, but a pain :-). I vote for putting nice clean holes with some sort of grommets or wire protection in now, when it's easy. -- Marc J. Zeitlin Email: marcz@an.hp.com From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com Date: Tue, 31 Mar 1998 15:46:25 -0600 (CST) Subject: Re: COZY: Chapter14 spar bulkheads The Cosy Classic plans call for 1.5" hole for wiring, its at the end of paragraph 4. From: "Marc J. Zeitlin" Subject: COZY: Spar attach comments Date: Thu, 28 May 98 10:25:52 EDT People; Well, now that we're back online, and I've actually managed to accomplish something on the airplane over the last weekend (worked 25 hours over 4 days - yippee!!), I thought I'd make a few comments regarding the spar attachment at the end of chapter 14. I carefully leveled my fuselage (up on the gear, now!) and then mounted the canard. [I had my second EAA technical inspector inspection a couple of weeks ago, done by Paul Adrien, and he suggested that when I mount the spar, to have the canard mounted to use as a level reference]. I then mounted the spar in the rear cutout, per the plans. I had to do a bit of sanding on the front surfaces of the cutouts to get the spar far enough forward so that there was 1/4" between the rear of the spar and the rear of the firewall, and so that I could ensure the perpendicularity of the spar to the fuselage centerline. The plans were very good at describing how to do that. After getting the spar shimmed level and square, with the rear mounting faces vertical, I stood about 10 feet in front of the plane right in front of the nose, and then closed one eye. With the open eye (duh) I sighted over the canard and lowered my head until each side of the spar _JUST_ disappeared behind the canard. I had to do a minor amount of shimming to get the canard and spar dead nuts level with each other - even 1/10 degree over the 12 feet is clearly visible, and that's about the limit of the levels I've got. So, after getting everything in place, I marked all my shims, sanded all the relevant areas, and then floxed the spar in place. I rechecked all the level, squareness, and canard parallelism again, and let it cure. I then glassed all the 2 and 3 BID tapes to hold the spar in. At that point it occurred to me that at no point did I consider the HEIGHT of the spar with respect to the fuselage - the plans did not talk about that issue. I poked around on the large sheets and found that the top of the spar was supposed to be at WL 22, exactly 1" down from the top of the main longeron at WL 23. So, out with the trusty ruler to find out where the heck my spar ended up. Arrgh. It's at 21 5/8". My cutout was a bit large, I guess, and instead of shimming it up flush with the top, I left it flush with the bottom. I will NOT be cutting out my spar to raise it the 3/8" - __in my opinion__ this is not aerodynamically important. However, it does have implications for attaching the strakes, which are supposed to be at WL 17.4. In my case, I will have to adjust that downward to WL 17.025 (WL 17, since I can't measure the 0.025 with a felt tip pen :-) ). My fuselage side cutouts for baggage compartment access will also have to be 3/8" lower. I did, however, want to bring this issue to everyone's attention so that they made sure to put the spar at the right level to save themselves the aggravation of having to adjust the strake height later on. More on Wing Attach to follow...... -- Marc J. Zeitlin Email: marcz@an.hp.com Date: Mon, 01 Jun 1998 13:50:26 -0400 From: "Johnson, Phillip" Subject: COZY: Spar & Wing Attachment When I attached my centre section spar I supported the spar on two tables, one on each side of the fuselage. I had no landing gear attached (I have RG). I then moved the fuselage back to the spar so the weight of the fuselage caused the spar to fit tightly against the longerons. I used a cargo strap between the spar, over the front seat shoulder brace, an around the centre piece of the instrument panel to pull the arrangement together. I had also attached the two wings and aligned the spar so that the wingtips were perfectly aligned with the fuselage both in azimuth and in pitch. The result is a fully aligned assembly with no tolerance buildup. My outer wing spar bolts are installed inside the sparbox with a captive arrangement that allows their removal if they get damaged. I can install a wing in just a few minutes using this method. ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Phillip Johnson Tel (613) 253 2229 (H) Ottawa, (613) 599 3280 ext. 441 or 232 Ontario, Cozy MKIV RG #30 Canada. Subaru EG33 ----------------------------------------------------------------------- From: Don Bowen Subject: COZY: Chapter 14 - Best way to form radius on LWA parts Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 12:55:00 -0700 I am ready to form the .1" and .2" radius on parts LWA1, LWA2, LWA3, LWA4, and LWA5. I was planning on doing this by hand (the good old fashioned hard way) with a file and / or sandpaper. Am I just taking the dumb brute force route here, or is there some trick way to easily form the radius on these parts? Any constructive suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks, Don Bowen Tucson, Arizona Cozy Mk IV s/n 440 Date: Mon, 17 Aug 1998 17:07:42 -0500 From: Tom Brusehaver Subject: Re: COZY: Chapter 14 - Best way to form radius on LWA parts >I am ready to form the .1" and .2" radius on parts LWA1, LWA2, LWA3, >LWA4, and LWA5. > >I was planning on doing this by hand (the good old fashioned hard way) >with a file and / or sandpaper. > >Am I just taking the dumb brute force route here, or is there some trick >way to easily form the radius on these parts? I used a disk sander, didn't worry about exactly .2 and .1, I figured .125 would work for 1/8th parts and .25 would be good for 1/4" parts. From: Jim Hocut Subject: RE: COZY: Chapter 14 - Best way to form radius on LWA parts Date: Tue, 18 Aug 1998 09:35:19 -0400 On Monday, August 17, 1998 15:55, Don Bowen [SMTP:DonBow@symix.com] wrote: > I am ready to form the .1" and .2" radius on parts LWA1, LWA2, LWA3, > LWA4, and LWA5. > > I was planning on doing this by hand (the good old fashioned hard way) > > with a file and / or sandpaper. I attacked mine with a tabletop belt sander. I made a couple of templates out of paper to make sure I was somewhere close on the radius, then went at it with the belt sander. Jim Hocut jhocut@mindspring.com