Date: Wed, 5 Feb 1997 10:54:04 -0500 (EST) From: CozyBldr@aol.com Subject: COZY:Front strut & NG-5 I glassed the bottom of my nose section a few months ago. Since there was no direction on what to do with NG-5 sticking below the fuselage, I sanded it and glassed it along with the foam. I was careful to have a nice transition to the foam. It looked great so I figured I had it nailed. When I cut out the strut, I had to make a straight cut as opposed to following the outline the doublers or the strut could not have been extended due to glass hitting the sides. (Does that makes sense?) This also meant that the transition glass from foam to NG-5 was cut midway through the transition which didn't appear to be a problem. Recently I decided it would be easier to sand and glass the inside strut layups with it off the fuselage (I also needed to repair the glass at the front end of the strut which I could not get to with it on the plane). This is where I ran into the problem. I had to cut the transition pieces around the doublers off to get the strut off the fuselage. I can build up a new transition area after I reinstall the strut but this will have to be done any time I have to remove the strut. Obviously the strut is something that should not need to be removed from the fuselage but I'm wondering if anyone else has come up with a better method of handling this. Any suggestions? Paul Stowitts Cozy Mark IV #200 From: Marc J. Zeitlin Subject: COZY:Front strut & NG-5 (fwd) Date: Thu, 6 Feb 97 9:28:31 EST Paul Stowitts wrote: >When I cut out the strut, I had to make a straight cut as opposed to >following the outline the doublers or the strut could not have been extended >due to glass hitting the sides. (Does that makes sense?) I had to go back and look at my strut and fuselage bottom, but finally figured out what you meant here. I went through the same thought process when doing my strut. >........... I had to cut the transition pieces around >the doublers off to get the strut off the fuselage. I can build up a new >transition area after I reinstall the strut but this will have to be done any >time I have to remove the strut. OK. After some serious study (5 minutes, at least :-) ) of the area in question, I've got a few suggestions. The strut pivot (don't remember the MK?? number) is wider than the opening you've got for it, but only for a distance of about 1.25" (the width of the pivot area diameter). 1) Cut slots in your transition areas just wide enough to allow the pivot to drop straight down through them. This would still leave you with 75% of your transition area intact, with some small openings (maybe 1.25" x .5") on either side of NG-5 when retracted. 2) Make small cover plates to cover up the small openings in (1) and RTV them in place. Then you only have to re-RTV them on the rare occasions when the strut must be removed. 3) Leave the opening around the NG-5 alone, with a relatively wide area to make removing the strut easier (basically what the plans leaves you with) but with some transition areas around it for looks. 4) Follow the plans, blow off the transition area, and figure that when the plane's in the air, no one will see it; when it's on the ground and retracted (parked) no on will see it; and when it's on the ground and extended, the transition areas won't line up anyway so you wouldn't be able to tell that there's an opening around NG-5 anyway. Since NG-5 is right behind the hockey puck, the aerodynamics are for crap anyway, so the transition area is probably just for looks. I bet you can figure out which path I followed :-). -- Marc J. Zeitlin Email: marcz@an.hp.com Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 08:33:45 -0500 From: Jim Hocut Subject: COZY: Hockey Puck - NO WAY Marc Z. wrote: > Since NG-5 is right behind the hockey puck, the aerodynamics are for > crap anyway, so the transition area is probably just for looks. OK, since Marc brought it up, I'm not intending to put a hockey puck on my plane, no way, no how. I don't like the way it looks, and I've been to too many John Roncz forums at OSH to leave something that dirty hanging out in the relative wind. I'm planning on using a couple plies of Kevlar on the bottom of the nose, and just always carry a scrap of carpet to set the nose on when I park nose-down. OK, now for the question. Should the plywood reinforcement for the puck stay or go? Should anything different be done for structural reinforcement. Thanks, Jim Hocut jhocut@mindspring.com Date: Sat, 8 Feb 1997 09:44:08 -0500 (EST) From: astrong@dvsdghse.com Subject: Re: COZY: Hockey Puck - NO WAY At 05:44 AM 2/8/97 -0500, you wrote: > >Marc Z. wrote: > >> Since NG-5 is right behind the hockey puck, the aerodynamics are for >> crap anyway, so the transition area is probably just for looks. > >OK, since Marc brought it up, I'm not intending to put a hockey puck on >my plane, no way, no how. I don't like the way it looks, and I've been >to too many John Roncz forums at OSH to leave something that dirty hanging >out in the relative wind. > >I'm planning on using a couple plies of Kevlar on the bottom of the nose, >and just always carry a scrap of carpet to set the nose on when I park >nose-down. OK, now for the question. Should the plywood reinforcement >for the puck stay or go? Should anything different be done for structural >reinforcement. > >Thanks, > >Jim Hocut >jhocut@mindspring.com > > Like you I did not like the HP.I replaced the 1/8" al plate (ref.NG-5)cozy III plans with 1/4" steel,counterbore so the the bolt head is below th surface.Less drag,looks better. Alex Cozy N306AN 350 hrs and counting. A.Strong Cozy III N306AN astrong@dvsdghse.com with SMTP id <01IF6IWBO2M695XF8S@InfoAve.Net> for cozy_builders@hpwarhw.an.hp.com; Sat, 8 Feb 1997 17:11:55 EST Date: Sat, 08 Feb 1997 17:11:54 -0500 (EST) Date-Warning: Date header was inserted by InfoAve.Net From: Nick Ugolini Subject: Re: COZY: Hockey Puck - NO WAY > Since NG-5 is right behind the hockey puck, the aerodynamics are for >> crap anyway, so the transition area is probably just for looks. > >OK, since Marc brought it up, I'm not intending to put a hockey puck on >my plane, no way, no how. I don't like the way it looks, and I've been >to too many John Roncz forums at OSH to leave something that dirty hanging >out in the relative wind. A while back I posted a email about my friend who landed nose gear up and ground down the puck and several layers of glass. When he rebuilt, he repaced the puck with a "yaw wing". It is 1/2" steel, cut in the shape of a miniture 3" x 3/4" wing on the flat side, with 3/8" is machined out of the center to accept a rubber pad. This small wing is bolted to the same spot the puck is attached to with a single bolt. It serves the same fuction as the puck, but with 1/4" steel I doubt you would grind your way through it. Here is the neat part. When you go to "balance" your plane, if you have a yaw in flight, the traditional way of correcting this problem is to shim the left or right rudder to swing the nose. My varieze's left rudder is shimmed out 1/4" to balance the plane. With the yaw wing, you take a mallet and rap it to adjust the position, test fly and readjust. When right, take some RTV and fillet it along the edge to keep it from moving. Plane balance and with no rudder shimming. Nick Ugolini unick@mail.charleston.net Varieze N89RS LongEZ N29TM Cozy Mark IV #0264 Date: Sun, 09 Feb 1997 16:26:23 +1000 From: Robin du bois Subject: Re: COZY: Hockey Puck - NO WAY As the author of no less than two gear up landings in my cozy I proudly step forward as an authority on this subject. (I also once wiped out an ILS light with a wheel fairing...) Now that we have settled the matter of qualifications, I say this. Read your checklist and you will never land gear up. Rattled? Stop. Go around pattern. Try again! I really wrote this to say the following: Gear up landing in the cozy is not sposed to do much damage. It can. I lost half the flanges on the nosegear retract pivot block...and about a square foot of flat appeared on the bottom of my plane. Then again, not everyone does things this thoroughly. I did not put steel in the nose as I was concerened it would make sparks in grinding along the runway. Yes, it gets hot! I did put a half inch pad of glass on there, and a slice of tire cut to a teardrop shape. It makes a nice pad. Maybe a hockey puck is better for friction... Robin du Bois Allegro Avionics (Engine temperature and fuel monitors.) Cozy II-place N22AZ Date: Sun, 9 Feb 1997 12:10:18 -0500 (EST) From: SWrightFLY@aol.com Subject: Re: COZY: Hockey Puck - NO WAY After reading this I remember when the "old-timers" (with over 1000 hrs. in EZs) sit around and tell war stories it's interesting to note that most of us have had the inevitable gear up landing. the old saying "thoes who have and thoes who will and thoes who will again" is very true. So the folks who do not put the hockey puck on the nose and beef up the contact point where the nose meets the runway will (sooner or later) wish they had!!! I'm concerned about the steel blade idea that is used for a nose rudder as when (notice I didn't say if) it contacts the runway at 60 knots or so- will it dig in and cause the plane to swap ends? I think the nose rudder idea is great- what about a vertical steel blade with a horizonal "foot" or plate welded on the bottom that will skid along as the plane comes to a stop? Good luck to the folks who are retracting all 3 wheels! From: Epplin_John_A@hpmail1.90.deere.com Date: Sun, 9 Feb 97 15:14:31 -0600 Subject: Re: COZY: Hockey Puck - NO WAY Has anybody thought about steel sliding down a concrete runway? I don't know how hot it will get or what it takes to ignite epoxy. Just a thought. John Epplin Date: Sat, 15 Feb 1997 00:52:00 -0500 (EST) From: StetsonE@aol.com Subject: COZY: Information gaps, nose bumpers, etc. In a message dated 97-02-11 20:28:44 EST, write: > Howard Rogers wrote: > I agree that we need to keep in touch, and I agree that a designer cannot > provide "every little detail", but I am seeing a trend that disturbs me. > The Cozy designs came "downstream" of Rutan's Long EZ, and are based on it. > >Many of the design features are identical. >What other discoveries from the past could you be "in the dark >about", I wonder? I don't mean to criticize anyone here. I honestly don't >know the nature or the extent of your methods of official >safety-information dissemination. I worry. > Well said, Howard. I broached the same concern many months ago, but wasn't nearly so eloquent. It was interpreted as an attack on Nat and I was rightfully chastized for it Nevertheless I'm similarly worried. As the publisher of the "Electronic CP" and "CP Digest for the Long-EZ", I've read and reread the Rutan's CPs more times than probably anyone else. From this knowledge base, I've noticed there seems to be gaps in the information that is reasonably available to Cozy builders. That's not to say everything Rutan says is gospel or supersedes Nat's recommendations - certainly Nat could have better ideas. The important thing though is that builders know all the differing views and can make their own building decisions based on knowledge, not the lack of it. Case in point from a recent thread - The Long-EZ plans recommends a 1/2" thick chunk of truck tire tread as a nose bumper, cut into an airfoil shape and bonded and glassed to the bottom of the nose. Subsequent CP articles from builders recommend a 1/4" steel plate under the bumper in the event of a gear-up. One builder definitely didn't recommend a hockey puck after his experience having one on his plane. He hand-propped his EZ one day but unfortunately he had the throttle set too high. The plane jumped the chocks, careemed across the ramp and caused significant damage to both a Cessna and his EZ. The conclusion was that a hockey puck shouldn't be used because it's designed to slide, and that's just what it did. Although not mentioned in the CP's, something similar happened to a builder who had his nearly completed EZ parked beside his in-ground pool on the concrete deck in his back yard. Throttle was again set too high, and his rubber bumper was sitting on a piece of carpet. Yep, you guessed it - the plane ended up in the pool! ( I got this from a friend who visited the unlucky builder the day after it happened. The builder had to confess when my friend asked him why had fans blowing air into the cockpit. "Uh, I'm drying it out..." :-) I think the moral here is that the bumper should be made from something kindof sticky, not slidey. Me? I made a 1/2" thick rubber bumper cut from a cheap rubber mallet, with a 1/4" stainless plate underneath. I figure the rubber bumper will keep the plane from starting a trip without me. In the event of a gear-up the bumper will disappear in a couple of nanoseconds and then the steel plate will take over, allowing a sliding stop with a reasonable deceleration rate and hopefully minimal airframe damage. Back to the information problem - I think what the group needs is to have a completed Cozy III builder and a completed Cozy IV builder to review ALL of Rutan's CP's and report to this forum any significant ideas that are different from the Cozy plans or newsletters. That way everyone doesn't have to do the research individually. This won't help with the information from the earlier Cozy newsletters, but it's a start in the right direction. To help in this endeavor, I'll provide free copies of the "Electronic CP" to a completed III and IV builder who are sincerely willing to take on this task and report the results to the group. Send me an email if you're interested. Stet Elliott Perpetual Long-EZ builder stetsone@aol.com Date: Sat, 15 Feb 1997 10:31:04 +0000 From: robin du bois Subject: Re: MORE--on COZY: Nose bumpers SWrightFLY@aol.com wrote: > > An idea that may keep EZs out of pools and from running across the tarmac and > crashing into Spam cans might be the very clever idea of the "YAW WING" or > steel blade which would "dig-in" if to much power was applied but as I > mentioned earlier, what happens during the gear up landing?? I hate to be a bore, but isn't ther a fairly simple way of preventing this sort of thing?! Doesn't one of the FARS say something along the lines of "don't hand prop the bloody thing withoout a qualified individual at the controls.." or some such nonsense? >From my own experience with gear up landings, more than I would like, I say everyone should just beef up the nose well with a couple dozen local plys of supercloth, and forget about it till it happens, which it will, when you land all of a jitter for the first time at a new airport and forget to read your checklist... Hows that for a positive attitude! I rebuilt my nose twice. In the light of this I would say it might help to not only beef up the surface, but to lay a good many plys of Kevlar along the longitudinal stringers up there too, on edge, to slow down the erosion of the nosegear strut. Bottom line, anything you drag along a really rough sharp flinty old runway surface at sixty knots is going to go away in a hurry, steel is no exception. Imagine a belt sander with 5 grit sandpaper on it and a 160HP engine.... Robin du Bois Cozy22AZ Allegro Avionics (engine and fuel monitors) Date: Sat, 15 Feb 1997 08:47:43 -0500 From: Mahan Subject: Re: COZY: Nose bumpers StetsonE@aol.com wrote: > I made a 1/2" thick rubber bumper cut from a > cheap rubber mallet, with a 1/4" stainless plate underneath. I figure the > rubber bumper will keep the plane from starting a trip without me. In the > event of a gear-up the bumper will disappear in a couple of nanoseconds and > then the steel plate will take over, allowing a sliding stop with a > reasonable deceleration rate and hopefully minimal airframe damage. Stan, this will be beneficial if you ever wear out your rubber bumper, but probably will not help you in a nosegear-up landing. Unless the skin on the underside of the nose is heavily reinforced, the bumper/plate will simply punch through the skin and into the foam. The nose abrades away as you slide to a stop until it gets down to the alumimum plate at the top of the landing gear leg. Then the foam abrading stops and the aluminum plate and the screws which hold it on start wearing away, much more slowly. The rubber bumper works well, though, as a chock. I accidentally started my Long-EZ (when I was hand propping) at full throttle (O-235), and the bumper kept it from starting to move. Fred in Florida Long-EZ N86LE Date: Sat, 15 Feb 1997 09:30:02 -0500 (EST) From: SWrightFLY@aol.com Subject: Re:MORE--on COZY: Nose bumpers An idea that may keep EZs out of pools and from running across the tarmac and crashing into Spam cans might be the very clever idea of the "YAW WING" or steel blade which would "dig-in" if to much power was applied but as I mentioned earlier, what happens during the gear up landing?? Date: Sat, 15 Feb 1997 14:38:37 +0000 From: robin du bois Subject: Re: MORE--on COZY: Nose bumpers astrong@dvsdghse.com wrote: > > > > > >Re; NG up landing I dont recall any body mentioning the warning buzzer and > light when you reduce power for landing its pretty hard to ignore. > A.Strong Cozy III N306AN astrong@dvsdghse.com Good point, I did! I got into my first rain stom with a new plane and a bellyful of adrenaline, and let me tell you, the sound of that warning horn was pathetic as I hauled my plane off the active runway with a big flat spot on it's bottom. When you are really concentratiing (fixating) in the high speed environment of an EZ in the pttern you can blank out anything. Habit will save you, habitually use your checklist. Another far more interesting subject, how many three placers out there have taken off with a passenger and forgotten to remove the nose ballast? I have and it can be a startling experience. Does the four place have ballast in the nose? Do you have a Check Ballast Correct line on your checklist? I do and have never done it since. Not that I won't, some day! Robin du Bois Cozy22AZ Allegro Avionics (engine and fuel monitors) Date: Mon, 10 Mar 1997 11:07:43 -0500 (EST) From: Gunrider@aol.com Subject: COZY: nose lift Who is making the best (strongest) nose lift system and is a step necessary with it? I hear there is one that will lift a full load. Thanks:) Date: Tue, 11 Mar 1997 18:57:00 -0500 (EST) From: N11TE@aol.com Subject: Re: COZY: nose lift Several years ago I received a set of plans for an electric nose lift mechanism from Central States. I revised these plans to fit the Cozy MK IV and forwarded them to Jeff Russell for review. He took this revised design and made into the option he offers. It easily lifts 4 people in his Aerocanard so there is no need for any step. It is proven, affordable, and available from Jeff if you contact him direct. After studying this design even more thororughly, I felt the spring could be mounted on the end of the actuator and make the design even more simple. I contacted Vance Atkinson ( who I heard was interested in installing an electric lift) and Vance agreed to Beta-Test the design. I made up the original parts, sent them to Vance and he installed it in his plane. This design, with one modification, is still being used in his plane. The second set of parts is in my plane (yet to fly.) After this, I received a letter from Nat Puffer requesting I make a set of parts for him to install in his plane. Those parts were delivered to Nat at Oshkosh. I don't know where he stands on installation. Next, Steve Wright contacted me and asked if he could manufacture this design and sell it for those who do not have any manufacturing capabilities. It is my understanding that he has done so and has units for sale at a reasonable price. Obviously, I have nothing to do with his efforts so cannot give any assurances that this product is the exact same design we tested. This you will have to get from him. Either of these designs should easily lift four people and full fuel in a Cozy MK IV or Aerocanard. Which means you will not need a step. Tom Ellis Cozy MK IV Plans #25 Now Aerocanard MK VI (IO-540 and many more modifications) Date: Wed, 12 Mar 1997 21:42:28 -0500 (EST) From: StetsonE@aol.com Subject: Re: COZY: nose lift In a message dated 97-03-10 16:59:16 EST, you write: > Who is making the best (strongest) nose lift system and is a step necessary > with it? I hear there is one that will lift a full load. Thanks:) Bill Oertel has been making and selling a nose lift kit for the past several years, so it should be well proven. He's based in Chino and has a high time VariEze. His system is quite popular on the west coast, and they've been installed Long-EZs, VariEzes and Cozy IIIs. A west coast Cozy IV flyer is considering one also. It'll lift a fully loaded VE and LE. Don't know about the Cozy but would assume so. He gave me permission to post his address and phone nbr. Call or write him for further information. He's doesn't have email yet. Bill Oertel 3216 Bronco Lane Norco, CA 91760 (909) 734 7569 Stet Elliott stetsone@aol.com Perpetual Long-EZ builder From: "Sid & Mari Lloyd" Subject: Re: COZY: nose lift Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 03:57:51 -0600 I have this system installed and it works great on the Cozy IV. It lifts the nose right up with 2 of us in front. Sid Lloyd Cozy IV 104/AeroCanard hybrid Date: Thu, 13 Mar 1997 10:56:29 -0500 (EST) From: SWrightFLY@aol.com Subject: Re: COZY: nose lift The NOZE-LIFT designed by Tom Ellis and which I manufacture has undergone a number of modifications. The system is capable of lifting a Cozy MK-4 full of people and fuel and lower them for EZ exit. Nat Puffer has installed the system in his MK-4 and has been pleased with it's performance. With the NOZE-LIFT an entry step is unnecessary. I have constructed a Cozy-Mk 4 nose from F-22 forward and have the system installed and operating on a display stand. Anyone going to Sun & Fun will get a chance to see the unit which will be next to Nat's Mk-4. The price for the complete system is presently $750.00 until the price increase in May. Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 06:34:57 -0500 From: Jim Hocut Subject: Re: COZY: nose lift OK, my interest is piqued. A few questions: What does the nose lift replace from the stock nose gear installation (i.e. what won't need to be purchased from Brock or elsewhere)? What's the difference in installed weight? Thanks, Jim Hocut jhocut@mindspring.com Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 09:05:27 -0500 From: Phillip.Johnson@lmco.ca (phillip johnson) Subject: COZY: Hydraulic nose lift With all this hype about electric nose lifts I though that I would mention that, as of this last weekend, I can now announce the success of my hydraulic nose lift. Its been a couple of years in the making, taking second place to all of the building exercises that have been on going. I have the infinity Retractable main gear and with it comes a hydraulic power pack. Now it seemed logical that since I now had a power pack for the mains, it would be smart to incorporate the same unit for the nose gear, and yes, the landing brake. My weight delta, ASSUMING THAT THE HYDRAULIC PUMP IS ALREADY NEEDED FOR THE MAINS, is about zero to two pounds, although the plumbing is a nightmare. The whole shooting match uses no Brock parts and is a hybrid of one of Nigel Field's ideas and my own concoction. It uses a rubber compression strut to isolate the shock instead of that high Q spring system used by Brock. The hydraulic control valves (electric) are situated under the pilots seat and all have a manual override. Direct power control is also afforded to each control valve and the hydraulic pump to override all limit and sequencing switches. A CO2 blow down bottle is used as a last resort if electrical power is lost or if there is a pump failure. There are a couple of bugs that need to be fixed with the addition of a couple of valves but these bugs are understood. The total increase in cost over the Infinity system has been about $400 (US$) but then you have to subtract the cost of the Brock parts that I never needed so I guess that I came out about even. Sorry to wet your appetites but this is not for sale, I have to finish the Cozy before I get involved with any additional projects. I mention this because anyone can do it. It does require a small amount of welding but no machining. Phillip Johnson (Waiting for the snow to clear to finish the final assembly shop) Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 10:46:59 -0500 From: Rick Roberts <102503.1561@compuserve.com> Subject: Re: COZY: nose lift The Tom Ellis/Steve Wright masterpiece replaces all of the worm gear set up and the crank, and Steve even supplies a beefed up attach bracket for the strut. You just need the hinge fitting and the incredibly expensive wheel swivel unit. Be sure you get the Mark IV version. Rick Roberts Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 11:38:06 -0500 (EST) From: gperry@usit.com Subject: COZY: Cozy IV Nose Lift <> Jim, I have the system by Jeff Russell and it replaces everything from Brock except the two brackets that attach to the nose strut. Gregg Perry by InfoAve.Net (PMDF V5.1-5 #17060) with SMTP id <01IGHYTABJJO972EXI@InfoAve.Net> for cozy_builders@hpwarhw.an.hp.com; Fri, 14 Mar 1997 16:14:49 EST Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 16:14:35 -0500 From: Jeff S Russell Subject: Re: COZY: nose lift Organization: AEROCAD INC. SWrightFLY@aol.com wrote: > With the NOZE-LIFT an entry step is unnecessary. Let me disagree with that statement that the step is unnecessary. I have vary few times as a pilot came to a stop and wondered if the nose wheel was straight so that I lowered it into the wheel well without damage to the gear doors or fork assemble. You can vary easily tear off the nose tire or rip a new hole in the bottom of the fuselage tub. I ALWAYS start the engine with me and others onboard with the nose on the ground. Then lift the weight of the aircraft with the EZ lift. I ALWAYS shut off the engine after flying then I get out using a retractable step then electrically lower the gear making sure the wheel is straight. I have never had a tire or nose door problem but I could see this to be a problem if I was not watching!!! Murfy is always lurking? Don't give him a chance. We also sell a EZ lift (check out our web site) that is set up so that full stroke "in & out" are reached not hoping that the limit switches will stop the action of the screw jack. If the limits go past on the "in" mode a new hole will be found in the airplane. If the limits go past on the "out" mode without power "manual crank" how far is far enough for a landing. A visual manual stop must be achieved. Everything has it's plus and minus. -- AeroCad Inc. Jeff Russell phone/ call first for fax 910-961-2238 E-mail: JRAEROCAD@yadtel.net web site with NEW pictures under heavy construction: http://www.binary.net/aerocad Composite workshop info: http://www.Sportair.com by InfoAve.Net (PMDF V5.1-5 #17060) with SMTP id <01IGHZ8KQMG6973TW7@InfoAve.Net> for cozy_builders@hpwarhw.an.hp.com; Fri, 14 Mar 1997 16:27:09 EST Date: Fri, 14 Mar 1997 16:26:55 -0500 From: Jeff S Russell Subject: Re: COZY: nose lift Organization: AEROCAD INC. Jim Hocut wrote: > What does the nose lift replace from the stock nose gear installation (i.e. > what won't need to be purchased from Brock or elsewhere)? Do not order if installing the Electric lift for the nose strut (2) CNL Aluminum Bushings 5.00 10.00 (2) CN2 Flanged Bushings 1.95 3.90 (1) VENGR Worm Drive Retract 240.00 240.00 (1) MKLST Shock Strut 114.00 114.00 (2) NG-14 Spacers 7.50 15.00 (1) MKNG-61 Crank Torque Tube 11.50 11.50 (1) NG-63 Crank Torque Tube Sleeve 4.25 4.25 (1) NGA-64 Crank Assembly 23.50 23.50 (1) NG-67 Crank Bearing Block 4.25 4.25 TOTAL:$426.40 > What's the difference in installed weight? That stuff weighs 4 lbs and the new screw weighs 12 lbs and the stuff that it takes to mount ours weighs 4 lbs. This gives a total of 12 lbs Steve's EZ lift is $750.00 Our setup is $1050.00 Steve's is cheaper but different. -- AeroCad Inc. Jeff Russell phone/ call first for fax 910-961-2238 E-mail: JRAEROCAD@yadtel.net web site with NEW pictures under heavy construction: http://www.binary.net/aerocad Composite workshop info: http://www.Sportair.com Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 12:59:33 -0500 (EST) From: gperry@usit.com Subject: COZY: Chapter 13, static lines I've just reached the end of Chapter 13 where the instuctions tell you about digging a hole in the side of the fuselage for some aluminum tubing and then drilling three holes from the outside of the plane for the static ports. Seems like this could cause problems during filling, sanding and painting on the outside of the fuselage with dust getting in the holes etc. Is there an easier way to do this or another place to locate the static line? (Or am I making too much of all this?) Gregg Perry Date: Tue, 18 Mar 1997 16:25:39 -0500 (EST) From: Westlande@aol.com Subject: Re: COZY: Chapter 13, static lines In a message dated 3/18/97 5:50:12 PM, you wrote: >Seems like this could cause problems during filling, sanding and painting >on the outside of the fuselage with dust getting in the holes etc. They get covered with filler during the finishing process, but when you sand it away, the holes are easy to spot and re-drill. Blow out the dust and you are done. Date: Wed, 26 Mar 1997 19:35:52 -0500 From: "William B." Subject: COZY: Landing Lights I want to install the dual landing lights in the nose as several others have done. Two questions: 1. Are those automotive fog halogen lights too hot to be in such close proximity to the nose bulkheads? Did ya'll use incandesant instead? 2. Is 1/8 Lexan the product of choice for the molded windows in the nose cone? OK, so that was three questions. Thanks, William E. Buckley (Cozy Mk IV, #437, Chap 13) From: Marc J. Zeitlin Subject: COZY: Landing Lights (fwd) Date: Thu, 27 Mar 97 9:21:14 EST William E. Buckley writes: >1. Are those automotive fog halogen lights too hot to be in such close >proximity to the nose bulkheads? Not in the testing I did. The ones I used are in a plastic housing, and although there's no airflow over them, as there is when they're mounted under the bumper of a car, they don't seem to get exceedingly hot (certainly not enough to damage any of the glass around them) and they're not on for very long when you're flying or taxiing anyway. If I remember correctly, someone did some experiments with lights that they reported in either the 1995 or 1996 archives. >.......... Did ya'll use incandesant instead? Nope. Twin 50 watt halogens - I think the housings could hold 75 or 100 watt bulbs as well - I'll see if the 50's aren't bright enough. >2. Is 1/8 Lexan the product of choice for the molded windows in the nose >cone? I used 1/16" acrylic (plexiglas (tm) ). Polycarbonate (Lexan (tm) ) would be OK too, but it's more expensive and scratches easier. Also, I think the 1/8" would be a lot harder to mold to the shape of the nose cone, without going to a lot of trouble. -- Marc J. Zeitlin Email: marcz@an.hp.com by SERV05.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU (PMDF V5.1-8 #16063) with SMTP id <01IGZMU6K7HE0054ES@SERV05.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU> for cozy_builders@hpwarhw.an.hp.com; Thu, 27 Mar 1997 07:46:14 PST Date: Thu, 27 Mar 1997 07:48:44 -0800 From: hrogers@SLAC.Stanford.EDU (Howard Rogers) Subject: Re: COZY: Landing Lights (fwd) >(snip) >I used 1/16" acrylic (plexiglas (tm) ). Polycarbonate (Lexan (tm) ) >would be OK too, but it's more expensive and scratches easier. Also, I >think the 1/8" would be a lot harder to mold to the shape of the nose >cone, without going to a lot of trouble. > >-- >Marc J. Zeitlin Email: marcz@an.hp.com To add to what Marc said about forming lexan: Tony Bingelis wrote a great column a couple (or more) years ago about his own attempts to form "deep-drawn" lexan wingtip lenses for running lights. He used tried and proven methods: wooden form, oven heat, etc. Many attempts produced unacceptable or marginal results. He finally gave up and easily made a perfect acrylic lense, first try. Lexan is great for impact resistance, and that is what Tony was after (hangar rash prevention), but it is very difficult to form, compared to acrylic. In addition to being more scratch-prone, it is also more difficult to polish, in the event of scratches. It would probably be easier and cheaper, in the long run, to make two or three lenses from acrylic, while you are set up. Then, if you got too many scratches or a crack, just replace it. --Howard Rogers, 415-926-4052 hrogers@slac.stanford.edu Date: Thu, 27 Mar 97 08:15:00 PST From: Brian DeFord Subject: Re: COZY: Landing Lights William, >1. Are those automotive fog halogen lights too hot to be in such close >proximity to the nose bulkheads? Did ya'll use incandesant instead? Mine are 50 Watt incandesant automotive add-ons. They don't generate much heat at all, certainly not enough to melt any localized epoxy. >2. Is 1/8 Lexan the product of choice for the molded windows in the nose >cone? I found some 3/32" Lexan at the local hardware store that according to the manufacturer is "5 times stronger than regular acrylic and won't yellow with age". It took me a couple of tries to get the molding down the way I liked it, but I had plenty of material to practive with. I think the sheet was approx 2 feet x 4 feet. Brian DeFord Cozy MK-IV #309 Just finished floxing the canopy to the turtleback... Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 11:42:25 -0500 From: Jim Hocut Subject: COZY: CH 13 - Improved MKNG-6? I recall a while back someone mentioning that with time the stock MKNG-6 gets sloppy requiring bushing replacement, etc. I also seem to recall someone having modified one using tapered bearings that eliminated this problem. Is there currently a source of the newer improveder version, or can someone enlighten me on what one would need to do the modifications oneself? Thanks, Jim Hocut jhocut@mindspring.com Date: Fri, 28 Mar 1997 10:17:56 -0800 From: berkut@loop.com Subject: Re: COZY: CH 13 - Improved MKNG-6? I don't know about a tapered bearing, but we use a pair of thrust bearings with hardened steel washers on both sides (the washers come with the bearings.) Just contact your local bearing house and ask for thrust bearings with an ID that matches the OD of the NG6 pivot pin, then put them inbetween the NG30's and the NG6 over the pin and crank down on the bolt. That eliminates the little bit of play that eventually turns to slop. >I recall a while back someone mentioning that with time the stock >MKNG-6 gets sloppy requiring bushing replacement, etc. I also seem >to recall someone having modified one using tapered bearings that >eliminated this problem. Is there currently a source of the newer >improveder version, or can someone enlighten me on what one would >need to do the modifications oneself? > >Thanks, > > > >Jim Hocut >jhocut@mindspring.com > > > -- Czech Sikhs! Richard Riley "Heavier than air flying machines are impossible." Lord Kelvin, President, Royal Society, c 1895 See the Berkut at http://www.berkut.com Date: Mon, 31 Mar 1997 17:50:16 -0500 From: wilhelmson@scra.org Subject: Re: COZY: CH 13 - Improved MKNG-6? Jim; I designed and protoyped a MKNG-6 and a NG-6 casting replacement using preloaded tapered roller bearings. I have one on my Cozy and it has taken a beating for two years with no slop. I was considering marketing the castings but to do so I needed the approval of the designers of the Long EZ and the Cozy. I sent one of each to Nat and he sent the one for the Long to M. Mellville. Nat approved it but mike insisted that Tapered bearings are only for high speed applications and would not approve it. Brock would only make it available (even if I paid for the tooling) if the Long EZE folks approved it also. At this point I gave up. The orginal casting is not large enough to take the smallest tapered bearing. The prototypes were hogged from solid aluminum on a CNC mill. This is very expensive. Nat still has the one I sent him and I don't know who has the one for the Long EZE. I have the drawings and I even have a finished casting pattern. Needles to say after this sad tale, I don't intend to put any more time or money into it. I solved my own problem anyway. Date: Wed, 02 Apr 1997 11:48:31 -0500 From: Jim Hocut Subject: COZY: CH 13 MKNG-15A ? The plans call for a "MKNG-15A" castoring nosegear. After looking and looking and looking some more I don't see such a thing in Brock's catalog. Is it the same as a "NG_15A-R", an "MK-AA" or maybe even an "NG401A-1" ??? Thanks, Jim Hocut jhocut@mindspring.com Date: Mon, 14 Apr 1997 10:55:27 -0400 (EDT) From: TMKPIDA@aol.com Subject: COZY: Report on Wright's nose lift Dear fellow builders, I have purchased an electric nose lift for my Cozy MKIV (in progress) from Steve Wright. This is the one mentioned in the last newsletter. I received it as promised. It looks worth the price of admission. The workmanship is very good. The instructions are excellent. There are several nice touches. The unit is heavier (and looks to me much more heavy-duty) than the Brock set-up. This extra weight added should be considered. Obviously the earlier on in the process you make the decision which way to go (Brock or Wright) the easier it will be, but Wright's instructions assume you are retrofitting a completed bird. I fully recommend Wright's unit, but caution about the added weight. (15 lbs??) Related matter: I now have a brand new un-used Dr. Curtis Smith nosegear ratchet for sale ($27.00 includes shipping (U.S.) no waiting!!, and a right to return if not satisfied that it is new complete and unused). Thomas Kennedy #248 Cozy MKIV Installing the front nose. Date: Mon, 21 Apr 1997 17:39:01 -0400 (EDT) From: DFinn7971@aol.com Subject: Re: COZY: Re: Canopy & Aerocanard Parts In a message dated 97-04-21 15:06:26 EDT, JRAEROCAD@hub.INFOAVE.NET (Jeff S Russell) writes: << Bigger than normal people should also think about moving the rudder pedals a couple of inches forward if their legs are really long. >> I am bigger then normal and moved the rudder pedals one inch forward. I talked to Nat about this and he indicated that the Cozy III has the rudder pedals an inch forward and that he had moved them back as he was a bit shorter. Moving them forward does not cause and problems with teh retraction mechnism. If I had it to do over I would have added another inch but you should confirm that the pedals will not interfere with anything if you do this. Big Dick Finn Date: Mon, 05 May 1997 10:55:58 -0400 From: Jim Hocut Subject: COZY: CH 13 - Worm Drive Assy. 1. My worm drive assembly from Brock can be operated very easily with my thumb and forefinger when not installed in the NG-30's. However, once installed it becomes very difficult to operate without helping it along. Is this much difference normal? 2. While perusing a back issue of the Central States Newsletter, I saw a photo of Klaus' worm drive assembly which had so many lightening holes it lookes like it had been attacked by termites. While I'm very tempted to duplicate this to save weight I'm a bit reluctant since this assembly is obviously critical to getting the nose gear down. What are the guidelines for size and placement of holes for the purpose of reducing weight? Have any of you mechanical guys seen this photo, and if so what do you think? Thanks, Jim Hocut jhocut@mindspring.com Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 08:12:48 -0700 From: Eric Westland Subject: Re: COZY: CH 13 - Worm Drive Assy. At 10:55 AM -0400 5/05/97, Jim Hocut wrote: >1. My worm drive assembly from Brock can be operated very easily with >my thumb and forefinger when not installed in the NG-30's. However, once >installed it becomes very difficult to operate without helping it along. >Is this much difference normal? > Jim, I remember having to fiddle with mine considerably to get it to operate in a manner I considered satisfactory. Mine still chatters when I let it down, but I have been told they all do. Maybe there is a wasy to eliminate this, but I have not discovered it yet. >2. While perusing a back issue of the Central States Newsletter, I saw >a photo of Klaus' worm drive assembly which had so many lightening holes >it lookes like it had been attacked by termites. While I'm very tempted >to duplicate this to save weight I'm a bit reluctant since this assembly >is obviously critical to getting the nose gear down. What are the >guidelines for size and placement of holes for the purpose of reducing >weight? Have any of you mechanical guys seen this photo, and if so what >do you think? I saw the same, but decided to leave mine alone for now, Klaus has a Vari-ez, so the weight on his nose gear is less. Since I am not a "mechanical guy" I decided I would leave it alone for now rather than finding out the hard way. -eric From: Marc J. Zeitlin Subject: COZY: CH 13 - Worm Drive Assy. (fwd) Date: Mon, 5 May 97 12:35:51 EDT Jim Hocut writes; >1. My worm drive assembly from Brock can be operated very easily with >my thumb and forefinger when not installed in the NG-30's. However, once >installed it becomes very difficult to operate without helping it along. >Is this much difference normal? I did not find any difference in operation installed or not, although I do have the "lowering" chatter to which Eric W. referred. When you say it's easy to operated, is that with bolts installed and tighening the two sides together? If so, then you've got an alignment problem with your assembly. If you can tighten the bolts outside of the NG-30's, and it operates smoothly, but when you install it in the NG-30's it doesn't, then the alignment problem is with the holes in the NG-30's or the parallelism between them. I don't know how common this problem is, although I haven't heard of it before. >......... What are the >guidelines for size and placement of holes for the purpose of reducing >weight? Ho, ho, ho - guidelines, you want? :-). >... Have any of you mechanical guys seen this photo, and if so what >do you think? As one of those "mechanical guys", I saw it, and my first reaction was "wow, that's a lot of holes!" Seriously, the holes are all in the sideplates, which are either in compression or tension (no out of plane bending, unless something is _very_ wrong). Without actually analyzing anything, it's difficult to say what's allowable, but I find it reasonable to assume that you'd break the NG-30's or some other thin-wall glass part long before you'd break the aluminum side plates. Just don't cut away any MORE material than Klaus did, and make sure the holes are round and smooth, and have no corners, sharp edges, or burrs. YMMV (Your Mileage May Vary). -- Marc J. Zeitlin Email: marcz@an.hp.com From: "Kevin R. Walsh" Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 16:46:41 +0000 Subject: COZY: CH 13: Worm Gear Some people have been complaining about chatter in the worm gear drive on the nose gear. As has been stated, the cause is most certainly slop or end play in the worm gear. Due to the nature of these gears, they develop very high axial loads when they are in operation. This, coupled with a high load cycling (chatter) will lead to even more end play as the associated parts wear and or elastically deform. While a belleville washer will certainly help this situation, the proper fix is to install thrust washers on the end which is being driven into. Since the worm gear is used in both directions (unless of course, you land gear up on your maiden voyage and never fly it again...) there should be a thrust washer at both ends. This can be accomplished by either shortening the worm (make sure you still have enough clearance on the gear) or by widening the mount. You now have to preload the worm, which can either be done by compressing it as you assemble it, or by using the aforementioned belleville washer. This should result in a slop free, low friction installation. As Marc said, though, you must also make sure that you have assembled it all so that it aligns correctly and the plates are parallel. Contributing to the confusion.... ------------------------------------------------------------------- Kevin Russert Walsh Mechanical Engineer Intelligent Automation Systems, Inc. 149 Sidney Street Cambridge, MA 02139 TEL 617.354.3830 FAX 617.547.9727 http://www.ias.com Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 12:47:24 -0400 (EDT) From: SWrightFLY@aol.com Subject: Re: COZY: CH 13 - Worm Drive Assy. In a message dated 5/5/97 3:18:44 PM, you wrote: << Mine still chatters when I let it down, but I have been told they all do. Maybe there is a wasy to eliminate this, but I have not discovered it yet.>> I flew behind the brock worm gears for 1500 hours in my Varieze and gave up trying to adjust the chatter out of it. It even jammed once as I attempted to cranked it down and I had to land gear up....... which all of you will eventually do, but most of you will forget to lower the gear as I did for my second gear up landing. You will have to get use to the chatter. Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 13:53:05 -0400 From: wilhelmson@scra.org Subject: Re[2]: COZY: CH 13 - Worm Drive Assy. The chatter problem with the nose gear mechanism is caused by to much axial clearance in the worm gear. It can be shimed out, but will return with wear. Small belville spring washers to preload the worm can be used to keep the chatter out. Jack Wilhelmson (Cozy plans #!, N711CZ). ______________________________ Reply Separator _________________________________ Subject: Re: COZY: CH 13 - Worm Drive Assy. Author: SWrightFLY@aol.com at Internet_gateway Date: 5/5/97 12:47 PM In a message dated 5/5/97 3:18:44 PM, you wrote: << Mine still chatters when I let it down, but I have been told they all do. Maybe there is a wasy to eliminate this, but I have not discovered it yet.>> I flew behind the brock worm gears for 1500 hours in my Varieze and gave up trying to adjust the chatter out of it. It even jammed once as I attempted to cranked it down and I had to land gear up....... which all of you will eventually do, but most of you will forget to lower the gear as I did for my second gear up landing. You will have to get use to the chatter. From: "Krasa-1, Paul" Subject: RE: COZY: CH 13 - Worm Drive Assy. Date: Mon, 5 May 1997 14:37:57 -0400 >---------- >From: Eric Westland[SMTP:EWestland@premier1.net] > > >At 10:55 AM -0400 5/05/97, Jim Hocut wrote: >>1. My worm drive assembly from Brock can be operated very easily with >>my thumb and forefinger when not installed in the NG-30's. However, once >>installed it becomes very difficult to operate without helping it along. >>Is this much difference normal? >> > >Jim, > >I remember having to fiddle with mine considerably to get it to operate in >a manner I considered satisfactory. Mine still chatters when I let it >down, but I have been told they all do. Maybe there is a wasy to eliminate >this, but I have not discovered it yet. I had the same problem (chatter). I disassembled the worm gear and added shim (sanded a washer) until the sloop was removed. I do remember that the shim had to go on a praticular end or it would cause binding. My nose gear now extendeds without chatter. > Paul Krasa >Long EZ 214LP Date: Tue, 06 May 1997 10:41:26 +0200 From: Rego Burger Subject: COZY: Worm Drive assem. I find mine winds up perfect and easy but chatters on the way down, if I load it on the wheel with a light pressure " as to simulate wind from the front" then it go's down smoothly. IS THIS NORMAL? Note I do NOT need to apply much pressure on the handle, thumb and forfinger do the job fine, and my 6 year old son operates it with ease. ( Too OFTEN ) Rego Burger Port Elizabeth RSA ( Rep. South Africa ) cozy Mk 4 # 139 Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 07:36:10 -0700 From: Eric Westland Subject: Re: COZY: Worm Drive assem. >I find mine winds up perfect and easy but chatters on the way down, if I >load it on the wheel with a light pressure " as to simulate wind from >the front" then it go's down smoothly. IS THIS NORMAL? > Rego, When Nat was at our home last, I asked him this and he did say it was normal - air loads will nullify this in the air, but on the ground when raising the nose prior to take off, we'll have the chatter. I played with mine for a weekend trying to get rid of it, finally said "enough" and went back to building. It sounds like a few have been able to modify it so it goes away, too bad Brock did not build it this way to begin with. I'm just going to use mine for the time being, then switch to an electric lift when the gear mechanism (or myself) starts to show signs of wear/age. I'll watch it AND the torque tube that drives it. Eric Date: Tue, 6 May 1997 23:49:13 -0400 From: INFINITY Aerospace Subject: Re: COZY: Worm Drive assem. Hi Eric and All, >It sounds like a few have been able to modify it so it goes away, too bad Brock did not build it this way to begin with.< Brock only makes parts to a designers spec, even after he knows of a problem (ex. - worm gear chatter). He will not change the parts unless the designer tells him to. If the part is wrong yet made to his prints he was originally given, you're SOL. If they are wrong from your drawing, yet correct to the original print he was given by the designer, you're still SOL. If they are wrong because they are not to the original print, he will replace it. If the quality is poor, it might be what's called out on the print he was originally given (i.e. - tolerances, finish, etc.). As you all know, the worm gear came from the Long-EZ. I believe the Long-EZ rights are owned by someone else these days, so I doubt he will change the design. Maybe Tom Mc Neily, who came up with the offset elevator tubes through the fuselage, or Bob Davenport, who came up with the nose wheel shimmy damper, or someone else, can help Puffer, or you guys, to finally, once and for all, resolve this 20 year chatter problem. The Long-EZ guys used a shim (see old Canard Pushers. Stet, take 'er away). HTH. Infinity's Forever, JD Date: Thu, 8 May 1997 15:48:51 -0400 (EDT) From: StetsonE@aol.com Subject: Re: COZY: Worm Drive assem. The following articles are what the Canard Pusher Newsletters say about nose gear chatter. My own gear had considerable chatter during the building stage, but it went away when I greased the gears with wheel bearing grease. I guess the white lithium type grease I used previously wasn't thick (or slick) enough. I'd try wheel bearing grease first before before jumping into more complicated fixes. Stet Elliott stetsone@aol.com Long-EZ N321EF **From CP30-7** Worm/Wormgear Retract Mechanism Some builders have experienced "chatter" when extending the nose gear while static on the ground. While this has never been a problem in the air, due to air loads, it is possible to minimize this by checking alignment of worm and wormgear, and also backlash between worm and wormgear. If you have fore-aft movement of the worm, use a washer to shim it snug. This will eliminate the chatter. **From CP43-5** VariEze and Long-EZ - Nose gear chattering. George Dyer is a gear expert and we sure appreciate this excellent hint. "The following procedure will reduce and in most cases eliminate the chattering of the nose gear during lowering and some reported cases of inadvertent lowering in flight during turbulent weather conditions. This condition is caused by the weight of the nose gear wheel assembly pulling the gear housing arm (NG50) and causing it to over run the speed of the rotating worm gear (NG58) during lowering. An axial thrust load on the low speed shaft (NG52) will resist the weight and over running condition. The nose gear housing sides (NG51) and (NG30) are considered a flexible gear housing and require a greater axial thrust load present on the low speed shaft (NG52) than a rigid gear housing to eliminate the low speed gear (NG53) over running the worm hear (NG58) during lowering which results in a chattering sound. This can eventually result in gear fatigue. To accomplish the axial thrust load, washers (AN960-1016), regular or light thickness, need to be added on the low speed shaft between the NG55 spacer and the NG53 bearing as required to achieve an even clearance of .030" to .060" at points A and B shown on figure #1. Clearance should be set before the gear housing is installed in the plane since you will be unable to determine the thrust load clearance when installed. Both bearings (NG54) should be lubricated with a grease type lubricant before installation. If there are any questions or problems, please feel free to give me a call or write: George Dyer, 6221 Chapman Ave, Garden Grove, CA 92645, 714-894-6448". **SKETCH OMITTED** Date: Mon, 09 Jun 1997 09:46:37 -0400 From: Carlos Vicente Leon Organization: Maquinaria Diekmann Subject: Re: COZY: Gear height (fwd) Marc J. Zeitlin wrote: > > Al Wick wrote: > > >Suggestion for those who have not installed landing gear. Recommend you > >remove less glass from main and front gear. Essentially, let the plane sit > >higher. This allows more prop clearance and/or bigger prop. > BEWARE OF NOSE GEAR HOUSING POSITION WHEN IT IS RETRACTED. CHANGING THE LENGTH OF THE STRUT MOVES THE HOUSING POSITION. REGARDS Carlos Leon COZY MK IV-twin YV-22X VARIEZE YV-11X Date: Thu, 12 Jun 1997 10:06 -0500 From: "Vance, John" Subject: RE: COZY: Nose Gear Ratchet From: Howard Calk [SMTP:howard@sclrules.com] >I talked to Curtis Smith via email last week. Sadly he is out of business >due to lack of interest. Ok, are there any of you who bought the electric nose lift that would like to sell your old ratchet? Or, are there plans out for building one. John M. Vance jvance@nepool.com Cozy 3, chapter 13 Date: Thu, 12 Jun 1997 14:45:32 -0500 (CDT) From: wkasty@ix.netcom.com Subject: COZY: Nose Ratchet I am also interested in buying the nose ratchet mechanism! If anyone has one for sale send me an e-mail. If we placed a large enough order, maybe Dr. Curtis would consider making another production run. Bill Kastenholz wkasty@ix.netcom.com Cozy MKIV # 536 Date: Thu, 12 Jun 1997 16:04:19 -0400 From: "David R. Kuechenmeister" Subject: Re: COZY: Nose Ratchet I bought some ratchet parts and I've considered the problem a little. I'll experiment with the idea of constructing a ratchet. If the experiments are successful, I'll see about building a few. Sounds like the demand is pretty low, so I should be able to keep up the supply. I'm at the right stage in my construction, so results ought to be forthcoming. Regards, Dave At 3:45 PM -0400 6/12/97, wkasty@ix.netcom.com wrote: > I am also interested in buying the nose ratchet mechanism! >If anyone has one for sale send me an e-mail. If we placed a >large enough order, maybe Dr. Curtis would consider making >another production run. > >Bill Kastenholz >wkasty@ix.netcom.com >Cozy MKIV # 536 -- David R. Kuechenmeister Georgia Tech Research Institute Atlanta,GA 30332 mailto:David.Kuechenmeister@gtri.gatech.edu Voice: (770)528-7738 Date: Thu, 12 Jun 1997 13:30:18 -0700 From: Richard Riley Subject: Re: COZY: Nose Ratchet I built the ratchet I'm using, copying one of the doctor's. 1) use a .25" drive, the Craftsman seems to be the best. 2) be careful on disassembly not to lose the little spring or ball 3) anneal the gear before you drill it. Find a supply of the smallest roll pins you can to pin the gear to the handle 4) The handles (from Brock) have a _wide_ tolerances, they have to be hand-lapped to fit the ratchet. 5) Remember to re-harden the gear after all the drilling is done. At 04:04 PM 6/12/97 -0400, you wrote: >I bought some ratchet parts and I've considered the problem a little. I'll >experiment with the idea of constructing a ratchet. If the experiments are >successful, I'll see about building a few. Sounds like the demand is pretty >low, so I should be able to keep up the supply. I'm at the right stage in >my construction, so results ought to be forthcoming. > -- Richard Riley "Who the hell wants to hear actors talk?" Renaissance Composites, Inc. -- Harry M. Warner 3025 Airport Ave Warner Brothers Pictures, c 1927 Santa Monica CA 90405 310.391.1943 See the Berkut at http://www.berkut.com From: norm.doty@worldnet.att.net Subject: Re: COZY: Nose Ratchet Date: Thu, 12 Jun 1997 16:46:01 -0400 re: making your own ratchet mech. 1 you do not have to aneal (soften) the gear to drill it 2 you use a masionary drill bit and grind it's width to the one you want 3 then drill away. it'll cut right thru without any difficulty 4 this trick was told to me by an EZ driver, and it worked excelent on my ratchet which is already in my cozy 5 yes the best ratchet to use is the craftsman norm cozy IV #202 Date: Thu, 12 Jun 1997 17:07:30 -0500 From: tpierce@ghg.net (Terence J. Pierce) Subject: Re: COZY: Nose Ratchet If you use the electric nose lift, do you still need a ratchet for a back-up method of lowering the nose gear? -- Terry Pierce e-mail: tpierce@ghgcorp.com Cozy Mark IV #600 wkasty@ix.netcom.com wrote: > > I am also interested in buying the nose ratchet mechanism! > If anyone has one for sale send me an e-mail. If we placed a > large enough order, maybe Dr. Curtis would consider making > another production run. > > Bill Kastenholz > wkasty@ix.netcom.com > Cozy MKIV # 536 by InfoAve.Net (PMDF V5.1-7 #17060) with SMTP id <01IK01DFWFOO9EH0WX@InfoAve.Net> for cozy_builders@hpwarhw.an.hp.com; Thu, 12 Jun 1997 22:08:07 EST Date: Thu, 12 Jun 1997 22:06:45 -0400 From: Jeff S Russell Subject: Re: COZY: Nose Ratchet Organization: AEROCAD INC. Terence J. Pierce wrote: > > If you use the electric nose lift, do you still need a ratchet for a > back-up method of lowering the nose gear? Yes, but a real 1/4" ratchet that that has not been modified. This is part of the mandatory part list that I carry on the airplane at all times. -- Jeff Russell/AeroCad Inc. Date: Fri, 13 Jun 1997 11:27:17 -0500 From: Curt Smith Subject: Re: COZY: Nose Gear Ratchet Glad to see all this recent traffic on my ratchets. As someone here mentioned, the volume of orders does not justify my contiuing this any longer as I have many other demands on my time. I offered here on this list, I believe sometime last fall, to give, free of change, all the necessary directions, jigs, etc. to do these. Whoever does this needs to have access to a furnace suitable to anneal the gear and then heat treat it back to hardness after the necessary (simple) machining. No one took me up on the offer, so here it is again. I'm only willing to do this for someone who is willing to keep this project alive so other builders have access to them at a reasonable cost. Curt Smith At 08:07 PM 6/14/97 -0400, you wrote: >In a message dated 97-06-14 03:30:01 EDT, Boatfly@aol.com writes: > ><< > easy to build a ratchet,no big deal,and works great.Stan > > >> >Sure would appreciate info on ratchet sys. I'm sure I can do the mods. I just >don't have a clue as to what it is. We talking elect operated nose gear using >Craftsman elect ratchet? Or we talking about all mechanical lock for gear? >It connects to hand crank I assume. >I did some testing of my nose gear and believe it is remotely possible for >gear to get nudged when landing enough to cause it to cam over and retract. >With plane upside down I rapped gear couple times and it cammed over. Not >realistic test unless you periodically fly inverted when landing. >There has to be one idiot in group, guess I'm it today. If someone could clue >me in I would appreciate it. >-al > > Date: Sat, 14 Jun 1997 20:07:35 -0400 (EDT) From: AlWick@aol.com Subject: Re: COZY: Nose Gear Ratchet In a message dated 97-06-14 03:30:01 EDT, Boatfly@aol.com writes: << easy to build a ratchet,no big deal,and works great.Stan >> Sure would appreciate info on ratchet sys. I'm sure I can do the mods. I just don't have a clue as to what it is. We talking elect operated nose gear using Craftsman elect ratchet? Or we talking about all mechanical lock for gear? It connects to hand crank I assume. I did some testing of my nose gear and believe it is remotely possible for gear to get nudged when landing enough to cause it to cam over and retract. With plane upside down I rapped gear couple times and it cammed over. Not realistic test unless you periodically fly inverted when landing. There has to be one idiot in group, guess I'm it today. If someone could clue me in I would appreciate it. -al Date: Wed, 18 Jun 1997 22:19:42 -0700 From: Martin Kansky Subject: COZY: cozy:Davenport shimmey I've finally going to finish the nose gear. The plans talk about the davenport shimmey. Where do I get the parts? Brocks didn't know anything about this. Also, am I correct that the nose wheel uses a four inch rim with a 5 inch tire? ....Marty (N321CZ) by x14.boston.juno.com (queuemail) id JlQ05648; Thu, 19 Jun 1997 09:09:07 EDT Date: Thu, 19 Jun 1997 09:06:53 -0400 Subject: COZY: Nose Gear From: gmellen@juno.com (George J Mellen Jr.) >I've finally going to finish the nose gear. The plans talk about the >davenport shimmey. Where do I get the parts? Brocks didn't know anything >about this. Also, am I correct that the nose wheel uses a four inch rim >with a 5 inch tire? >....Marty (N321CZ) Marty The Mark IV nose gear has the Davenport shimmey dampener designed into it. For this reason and the fact its beefier, I installed it in my 3 place airplane. I believe its a 4" wheel with a 10 x 3.5 x 4 tire George Mellen gmellen@juno.com From: "Dalrymple, Mark J" Subject: COZY: Chapter 13 MKNG15 dimension question Date: Tue, 01 Jul 97 10:13:00 PDT I am currently building a MKNG15 and I am missing one dimension. How much of the Nose strut (Front side) goes into MKNG15 (Ref Chapter 13 - page 12). Also is there a radius (per the plans) of the intersection of the front side and bottom of the Nose strut. Answers appreciated :) Mark Dalrymple (In short Mark from Orange) Currently Finish the Last/Left wing and starting plastic surgery on the nose (need to remove 50 lbs of foam by foam suction).. Date: Tue, 1 Jul 1997 17:15:47 -0400 (EDT) From: Gunrider@aol.com Subject: COZY: Landing Gear Cover Has anyone made a gear cover that encloses the wheel entirely? Why not?? Is glass a better choice than the aluminum? Hugh Farrior From: Marc J. Zeitlin Subject: COZY: Landing Gear Cover (fwd) Date: Tue, 1 Jul 97 17:46:04 EDT HUgh Farrior wrote: >Has anyone made a gear cover that encloses the wheel entirely? I assume you're referring to the retractable nose gear, yes? I thought about doing this, but.... >Why not?? I believe that geometrically, you can't, without having nose gear doors attached to the fuselage (and some people have done this - Keith Spreuer springs to mind, although I know I've seen other COZY's and L.E.'s with this feature). If the cover is attached to the nose strut, and you want the nose wheel to be able to swivel, you can't completely enclose the wheel without having the cover hit the ground when the wheel is swiveled. I think. With nose gear doors that close upon retraction, you can do this. I didn't want to spend the time and energy, and figured I could always retrofit them later if I wanted to experiment. >Is glass a better choice than the aluminum? Better for what? I have no clue why the cover is aluminum, but it works. As far as I could tell, glass would work as well. My $0.02. -- Marc J. Zeitlin Email: marcz@an.hp.com From: "Krasa-1, Paul" Subject: RE: COZY: Landing Gear Cover (fwd) Date: Wed, 2 Jul 1997 07:29:38 -0400 Cozy 2122T has a nose gear door. The modification came from Central States years ago, and it works very well. The door consists of two halves attached to the fuselage and a spring between the halves. How it works is when the wheel is retracted it pushes the spring up into the wheel well which in turn closes the door. Its really a simple and neat door. Paul Krasa Long EZ 214LP A firm believer in the KISS principle. > >HUgh Farrior wrote: > >>Has anyone made a gear cover that encloses the wheel entirely? > > by InfoAve.Net (PMDF V5.1-7 #17060) with SMTP id <01IKR4ZN6W0U9F9CZR@InfoAve.Net> for cozy_builders@hpwarhw.an.hp.com; Wed, 2 Jul 1997 07:42:55 EST Date: Wed, 02 Jul 1997 07:37:33 -0400 From: Jeff S Russell Subject: Re: COZY: Landing Gear Cover (fwd) Organization: AEROCAD INC. Krasa-1, Paul wrote: > Cozy 2122T has a nose gear door. The modification came from Central > States years ago, and it works very well. Its really a simple and neat > door. Ditto that, I have the same thing and like it much better! -- Jeff Date: Wed, 2 Jul 1997 22:30:33 -0700 (MST) From: "Dr. Doug Ashby" Subject: COZY: Landing gear doors Hugh Farrior writes: At 05:15 PM 7/1/97 -0400: >Has anyone made a gear cover that encloses the wheel entirely? >Why not?? I'm in Chapter 13 and considering the same modification. This weekend I had a chance to see Sid Lloyd's (now Ron Newsom/ Dr. Moss's) project which is nearing completion and now in Gilbert, Arizona. Sid built a nose wheel gear cover(s) which he submitted in an article to the Central States Newsletter, #34 as Marc stated. It gives a good description and drawings of the Gear Door Retraction Mechanism. Sid's plans have a rounded (bubble) cover to enclose the wheel which is ~1/4" below the fuselage bottom (according to plans). I also looked at Gene Davis's (Globe/ Gold Canyon, Az.) project yesterday which has a similar retract wheel cover following Sid's basic design. He was able to fully retract his wheel so his cover is flat and flush with the bottom. He also changed the door hinges from small extruded channel aluminum w/ piano hinges. Gene's fuselage bottom is completed, glass smooth and painted and it looks great with the enclosed doors. The landing strut cover is also recessed (or faired) to be flush with the nose bottom. Seeing this completed stage (or of any part of the plane) is all the motivation I need to spend the extra time. Both methods would be easy to do either for those who have already built past that stage or for those who can retract their wheel flush with the fuselage. My copies of the CSN only go back to #37 (Jan. '95) but Gene faxed me a copy of Sid's plans in CSN #34 (March '94). I'd be glad to fax a copy of my fax to those (few who may be) interested. >Is glass a better choice than the aluminum? Glass is lighter. Gene used glass on his strut cover (according to plans) and gear doors. His (Sid's plans) hinged gear doors eliminate both aluminum forward and aft gear door plates, (drawing page M-19) which are attached to MKNG15 and MKNG16. By enclosing the whole landing gear wheel and swivel past F22 might actually be easier than trying to mount these forward and aft aluminum gear door plates to fit flush with the fuselage bottom and it definitely looks nicer. Doug Ashby MKIV #435 Chp. 13+ Date: Thu, 03 Jul 1997 08:25:26 +0200 From: Rego Burger Subject: COZY: Nose Gear Cover Sorry for the term change here, but Landing gear make me think of the Main gear /scoop cover..:-) Question: I have not seen closeup pics. of a nose leg in the retracted position, my (cozy's) N.G. has it's "strut" flush but the castor fitting is about 3/8" proud of the underside, and the tyre sticks out about 3/4" . Is this par for the course? Rego Burger Port Elizabeth RSA ( Rep. South Africa ) cozy Mk 4 # 139 http://www.home.intekom.com/glen/rnb.htm 041-386113 (work) From: Marc J. Zeitlin Subject: COZY: Nose Gear Cover (fwd) Date: Thu, 3 Jul 97 12:06:16 EDT Rego Burger wrote: >I have not seen closeup pics. of a nose leg in the retracted position, >my (cozy's) N.G. has it's "strut" flush but the castor fitting is about >3/8" proud of the underside, and the tyre sticks out about 3/4" . > >Is this par for the course? This question seems strangely familiar :-). Did you check the archives? Apparently, there's enough tolerance buildup here and there that some people's gear are flush, some are recessed, and some are proud of the surface. Yours is about the highest above the surface that I've seen or heard about, but I'm not real surprised, given all the places for tolerances to build up. Mine is recessed - the strut by about 1/8" to 1/4", and the wheel is about 1/16" below the surface. This caused me to have to build up the front of the strut with foam and glass to make the strut cover, and to have to make a few spacers for the standard aluminum nose wheel cover. -- Marc J. Zeitlin Email: marcz@an.hp.com Date: Thu, 03 Jul 97 12:29:31 EST From: MISTER@neesnet.com Subject: Re: COZY: Nose Gear Cover (fwd) From my experience, you need to be careful about keeping the airflow on the underside of the fuselage smooth and clean. Disruptions in the underside airflow will affect the air entering the NACA scoop. I had an interesting experience with this. When I first started flying my 3 place O320, the #3 cylinder would climb to 500 degrees shortly after takeoff (sparkplug gasket thermocouples on the top plugs). #3 would also run about 50 degrees hotter than the other cylinders. If I throttled back and eased off on the climb rate I could keep it under control. I was not thrilled with the prospect of adding and fooling with deflectors inside the cowl bottom. I had not installed the aluminum fairing on the moveable castering nose wheel. A friend suggested that I try that first. I did. Much to my surprise, the temp in climb on #3 dropped about 50 degrees! Now it stabilizes in climb at 450-475 (depending on OAT). I'm very encouraged! I need to do some more testing with some deflectors at the bottom of the cowling to try to equalize the temps. I think I'll be able to get it so that the hottest cylinder won't exceed 425 in climb (385-390 bayonet equivalent) That one piece of aluminum made a big difference! Flush gear doors and fairing the nose gear strut should do even better. Bob Misterka N342RM Date: Thu, 3 Jul 1997 22:48:06 -0700 (MST) From: "Dr. Doug Ashby" Subject: COZY: Nose wheel cover (CSA March '97) I started looking for the 'other set' of nose wheel cover plans Gene Davis talked about featured in a CSA newsletter and 'tripped over it' in the CSA March '97 issue. It was designed for a Long EZ. It gives good construction tips and similar mechanism with an additional spring to secure the doors closed. It suggests using 5 ply of carbon fiber for the doors.(?) and additional floxing reinforcing of corner. Doug Ashby Chapter 13+ From: SWrightFLY@aol.com Date: Fri, 4 Jul 1997 09:44:28 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: COZY: Nose Gear Cover (fwd) In a message dated 7/4/97 11:35:45 AM, MISTER@neesnet.com wrote: <> I fully agree with Bob. The aero flow experts I consult with (I live 50 miles from the largest wind tunnel-40 ft. dia.- in the world - Tullahoma TN. and know lots of guys who work there) say all openings should be sealed in flight to avoid turbulence (drag) down stream on the fuselage. My gear door is being designed to be air tight from the pivot point to the wheel. The door is one piece and rotates 150 degrees to full open position to clear the ground as the nose is lowered (with the NOZE LIFT ..of course). My nose strut is mounted 6 inched off center line to the right so I have lots of room for the hinges and torque tube to rotate the door but it still should fit a standard MK-4. If anyone is interested I can send drawings or look me up at OSH. Steve Wright Wright Aircraft Works Date: Mon, 07 Jul 1997 12:05:26 -0400 From: Jim Hocut Subject: COZY: Free to a Good Home I'd been thinking about alternatives for electrical nose gear actuation for some time, and believe I've come up with a viable option. As a bonus I've gotten my hands on several motors that I'll let go of for the cost of shipping if anyone is interested and is willing to share the successes (and failures) of their installation details. What I've got are some power window motors that were being discarded for various reasons. Some had bad components on the circuit board (not needed), one made "noise" (loose mounting screw), etc. They weigh just a hair over three pounds, and have a cast mounting base with threaded holes, so mounting should be easy. You ought to be able to find automotive type connectors for this at any good auto parts store (I haven't checked into this yet though). My thoughts for implementation are along the lines of: Drill out the threaded shaft center to 1/4". Fabricate a coupling that fits into the 1/4" ID of the shaft that the torque tube (NG-?? - I don't have the plans in front of me) can be bolted to. Drill a hole and insert a safety pin through the motor shaft and coupling. Install a wheel on the torque tube, so that in the event of motor failure one would reach under the panel, remove the safety pin, and be able to run the nose gear down by hand (by rotating the wheel). If anyone takes me up on this I'll throw together a sketch of what I've got in mind. If you don't have access to a lathe I know someone who ought to be willing to make the coupling out of 4130 for a reasonable donation (I'll suggest $10 apiece and see if he bites). Like I said, the price of admission is going to be the sharing of any ideas you come up with (so I/we can have the slickest nearly free electric nose gear on the planet), and the cost of postage. Note that this unit will be strictly for raising and lowering the nose gear when there's no weight on the nose (i.e. while in the air or being lifted by brute force), since, unlike the electric nose lift, this will still be dependent on the worm drive assembly which likely is not sturdy enough to lift the nose while loaded. Jim Hocut jhocut@mindspring.com Date: Tue, 8 Jul 1997 01:00:24 -0400 From: Bill Theeringer Subject: COZY: Free To A Good Home I was going to address this to Jim Hocut but I believe it may be of interest to the group: Jim; 7 years ago I installed a ridiculously simple scheme to electrically raise and lower my nose gear. Total cost was about $25.00. = I told Mike about it and he said to send him the specs and that he would write it up in the C.P. I told him I would prefer to try it for a while = to be sure it works and he said that he thought that would be a good idea to= o. I have since forgotten about it. I purchased a Black and Decker cordless electric screw driver, th= e = tube shaped version. I have the part number somewhere in my log book. I= t has a built in slip clutch adjustable from 1 to 9 relative slip. The end= accepts the standard pop in hex screw driver fitting. It runs on I belie= ve 3 ni-cad batteries. I removed the batteries and brought out the motor wires. They go to a center off DPDT heavy duty spring return switch that= mounts in the hole vacated by the crank. The switch is wired to reverse the motor polarity and is sourced directly by the battery. The screw driver is secured by one large Adel clamp to the top of the nose wheel blister. I used a short AN3 bolt and large diameter washers here. The c= ut off crank rod to the universal drive has a 1/4 inch I.D. I took a philli= ps bit that was 1/4 O.D, removed the temper and cut it off short. It just fits inside the crank rod. Then I thru drilled a 3/16 hole and ran an AN= 3 bolt through it. Removal is simple. Just unbolt the clamp, give it a tu= g and its in your hand. = The 3.6 volt motor runs quite well on 12 volts at this reduced du= ty cycle, and runs at a perfect speed for retracting the nose gear. The entire operation takes 3 - 4 seconds. A test of the motor under 12 volt= s and full load required more than 60 seconds continuous slip before any damage was found. The motor over heated as expected. When the gear bottoms out, the slip clutch takes over and makes a loud rat-a-tat and th= e vibration can be felt between your feet. The blister acts as a sounding drum. Replacement involves one bolt and a soldering iron. Do not use electrical connectors. Solder everything. Replacing the entire gear hea= d / slip clutch mechanism can be done by punching out two roll pins which puts the assembly in your hand. When the unit is new the clutch was set = at about a 6. After several months wear in period this needs to be at 8 or = 9 where it will remain. = Dis advantages. If the gear motor fails for any reason you are stuck. Just hope it is fully up or fully down. I have more than 1000 hours on mine and am thinking of replacing it just for peace of mind. It= s cheap, light, and Very Easy. Bill Theeringer N29EZ Date: Tue, 15 Jul 1997 11:36:52 -0400 From: "W.B." Subject: COZY: Nose Strut Attachment Question about the rod end bearings used with the spring strut on the nos= e gear: Is the bushing stock included in the chapter 13 parts list (Wicks part # BS3/8-1015) used to make the inserts for the rod end bearings? I ordered the HM-6 rod ends and they have a 3/8 in. bore, while the attachment bolt= s are AN4. The 3/8 in. outside diameter of the bushing stock makes me think= this is the intended purpose. Nat mentions inserts in the plans but he doesn't specify what and/or how to make them. Yes, I'm probably being a little anal here but I am sick and tired of reordering parts (always of the metal variety) after I screw something up= =2E The most frustrating times throughout the project has always involved met= al work of some type. It all started with that stupid fuel valve mounting bracket. If I ever decide to build a metal plane, would someone please track me down and shoot me because I will have lost my mind and will be o= f minimal value to society from that point on. = Thanks, William E. Buckley (Cozy Mk IV, #437, Chap. 13) cozybuilder@compuserve.com From: Marc J. Zeitlin Subject: COZY: Nose Strut Attachment (fwd) Date: Wed, 16 Jul 97 1:40:04 EDT William Buckley wrote: >Is the bushing stock included in the chapter 13 parts list (Wicks part # >BS3/8-1015) used to make the inserts for the rod end bearings? I ordered >the HM-6 rod ends and they have a 3/8 in. bore, while the attachment bolts >are AN4. The 3/8 in. outside diameter of the bushing stock makes me think >this is the intended purpose. Nat mentions inserts in the plans but he >doesn't specify what and/or how to make them. I got the MM-6 rod ends, and they too have a 3/8" bore. I have two aluminum bushings in them that look like I made them, and by gosh, my logbook says I did (although it doesn't say what I made them out of, although it's pretty obviously aluminum). I think I've forgotten more about what I've done to this plane in 2 1/2 years than I remember. Anyway, make a couple with a 1/4" I.D. and 3/8" O.D. that are just a smidge shorter than the width of the MM-6 rod end center. >...... It all started with that stupid fuel valve mounting >bracket. Now that, I remember. Broke two of them before making one out of 5052 aluminum, rather than the recommended 6061 (or 2024 - don't remember which :-) ). >..... If I ever decide to build a metal plane, would someone please >track me down and shoot me because I will have lost my mind and will be of >minimal value to society from that point on. Come on, William, don't hold back - tell us how you really feel :-). We won't have to search far - we'll just look for the guy banging an RV-6 empennage (sp?) kit over his head ;-). -- Marc J. Zeitlin Email: marcz@an.hp.com Date: Tue, 29 Jul 1997 22:44:43 -0700 From: Martin Kansky Subject: COZY: mounting wings, canard, centerspar I'm in the process of glassing the nose and am wondering whether I need to mount the canard before glassing the sides. I don't have anything mounted. Is this the best order for mounting wings etc.? First the centerspar to the wings Then the centerspar to the fuselage Then the canard? Also, has anyone purchased the nose cone from Featherlite and installed it. Would appreciate any suggestions. Thanks. Marty N321CZ (hot and humid in Tennessee) From: Marc J. Zeitlin Subject: COZY: mounting wings, canard, centerspar (fwd) Date: Wed, 30 Jul 97 9:26:36 EDT Marty Kansky writes: >I'm in the process of glassing the nose and am wondering whether I need to >mount the canard before glassing the sides. I don't have anything mounted. I think it's a lot easier to do Chapter 12 (Canard mounting) before doing Chapter 13 (Nose). After having done both, I wouldn't want to do it in the other order - it would be too hard to get at the mount points for the canard. > Is this the best order for mounting wings etc.? > >First the centerspar to the wings I did this (and the match drilling) on my deck outside - definitely can be totally independant of the next two. >Then the centerspar to the fuselage >Then the canard? These two are independent of one another - I've mounted my canard a couple of times in the basement, but can't come close to getting the spar on the fuselage. >Also, has anyone purchased the nose cone from Featherlite and installed it. > Would appreciate any suggestions. Not from Featherlite, but from AeroCad. If FL's is like AC's (and you like the rounded shape, as opposed to the pointy shape that some people like) then it's a good deal. $60 gets you a symmetric nose with an access door, and a template for the F-0 bulkhead as well as a shaping template for the fuselage sides and nose exterior. Well worth it. -- Marc J. Zeitlin Email: marcz@an.hp.com Date: Mon, 11 Aug 1997 18:17:07 -0400 From: "Calvin N. Hobbs" Organization: First Church of Yoda, Master of Jedi Knights, Inc. Subject: COZY: Toe brakes make me feel safer I DON'T WANT WIMPY PEDAL!!! I looked at pedals from the RV6 and was really impressed. I want that type of system instead of the Rutan brakes. If anyone has installed toe brakes in a cozy, would you please tell me what you put in and where I can get them. Calvin From: "Rob Cherney" Date: Fri, 22 Aug 1997 19:36:13 -0400 Subject: Re: COZY: Brakes w/ crosswind > Much of this tooth gnashing over brakes by Cozy and Long-EZ drivers would > be alleviated if only we had a steerable nose wheel. > Any clever person out there want to take > a crack at it? I understand that the nosewheel on Pushy Galore (Miller Special) is steerable. Perhaps that design could be adopted to the Long. Rob- +--------------------------------------------------------+ |Robert Cherney Home Phone: (410)465-5598 | |Ellicott City, Maryland e-mail: cherney@clark.net | +--------------------------------------------------------+ Date: Fri, 22 Aug 1997 18:18:07 -0700 From: Mahan Subject: COZY: Brakes w/ crosswind Much of this tooth gnashing over brakes by Cozy and Long-EZ drivers would be alleviated if only we had a steerable nose wheel. If you could steer the nose wheel, you could use more of the upwind brake on rollout, and perhaps need no brake dragging on takeoff. If you lost a brake on takeoff or landing, you could still remain on the runway. You'd probably have to give the pivot-on-one-wheel turning around ability, but that seems to me to be a small price to pay. RAF tried to develop a retrofittable steerable nose gear in the early 80's, but finally gave up in frustration. Any clever person out there want to take a crack at it? Fred in Florida Long-EZ N86LE Defiant project (nosewheel steering!) Date: Sat, 23 Aug 1997 16:55:04 -0700 From: "LCDR James D. Newman" Organization: INFINITY Aerospace Subject: COZY: Steerable Nose Wheel Hi Fred and All, >>LCDR James D. Newman wrote: My steerable or castering oleo nose strut system is not complete yet, but soon.<< > Jim, you have a steerable nose wheel in the works? Will it be retrofittable to Long-EZ's and Cozys?< Yes (to all canards (just drop in) - that's the goal), and it will use a Lamb size (~11" diameter tire), pick up a 4 seat 2200 lb. GW canard with full gas, 4 people and baggage. The prototype and production run is funded. Just need to give the company that does my drawings another $5000 to finish up the drawings :-(. Whole unit will cost about $800 to $1000+, and will weigh the same, or less, than the present system in vogue. I'll let you know when it's ready, if you are interested. Infinity's Forever, JD Date: Sun, 24 Aug 1997 21:05:50 -0700 From: "LCDR James D. Newman" Organization: INFINITY Aerospace Subject: COZY: Brake Stopping Force Hi Neil and All, >snip< >Assuming VERY worst case of everything; I just took off at all-up weight, say 2200 lbs. I need to put it down again FAST, so not much finesse in the touchdown speed, say 100 knts. 2 wheels doing the braking. So....KE = 0.0443(2200 x 100^2) / 2 = 487,300 ft. lbs. !!!! Even with more reasonable (but high) values, 90 knts., 2000 lbs., it still comes out to 359,000 ft. lbs.< At a gross weight of 2050 lbs., taking off at 85 knts. and aborting, or landing, would take 328,069 foot pounds per brake to stop in a maximum effort stop. The Cleveland Super Heavy Duties are rated at 192,000 foot pounds per brake - good brake, but not enough to stop your plane, and they'll tell you so (ask Phil). The MATCO 3 Puck brake system will handle 337,932 foot pounds per brake, with a safety margin / factor of 30%, which equates to 439,312 foot pounds per brake. >MATCO doesn't give brake specs in their home page, but this is a lot of warm stuff to dissipate. No wonder some folks are melting gear legs!< Their Home Page lists the specs under Product Specifications and W51Lt, which is the 3 puck brake system for 5.00 x 5 wheels and brakes. >So what's the heaviest-heavy duty brake available...?< The MATCO 3 puck brake system for 5.00 x 5 wheels and brakes. Infinity's Forever, JD From: Epplin John A Subject: COZY: RE: Steerable Nosewheel Date: Mon, 25 Aug 1997 12:55:43 -0500 > -----Original Message----- > From: Lee Devlin [SMTP:ldevlin@hpgrla.gr.hp.com] > Sent: Monday, August 25, 1997 10:54 AM > To: Epplin John A > Subject: Steerable Nosewheel > > > The nose wheel steering idea had crossed my mind also. The ideal > would > > be something that would release such as the tail wheels on some of > the > > old larger taildraggers. Then we could have the pivot-on-a-dime > > capability for parking etc as well as better handling on the taxi > and > > takeoff phase etc. Maybe after I get flying and everything else > sorted > > out I might try a few crazy ideas. > > Hi John, > > RAF did a lot of testing to try to solve the takeoff in crosswinds > problem with a steerable nosewheel. In the end, they abandoned it for > the larger rudders. As you know, the Cozy already has the larger > rudders so they become effective earlier in the takeoff roll. About > 90% > of the LongEZs I've seen at Oshkosh have been converted to the larger > rudders. I still have the small ones on my LongEZ :-(. > > I'm not sure about using a lockable wheel as my understanding is that > it > must stay locked for take off on a taildragger. It only comes > unlocked > during low speed taxiing for the purpose of steering in tight corners. > As for pivot-on-a-dime capability, differential braking provides that > already. > > Lee Devlin > [Epplin John A] > Thanks for the EZ rudder info. I was not aware of the previous work. > What I am thinking of is a lockable nosewheel is a little different. > Lock it to a steering linkage for most operations, but with the > ability to unlock it for close maneuvering. I would guess that the > rudder pedals could be used to steer over a rather limited range, > maybe 20 deg and that may be through a spring linkage. Another idea > which I don't think would work here unless someone can come up with a > really sharp idea would be the hydraulic steering used on the old > Aerocomanders. They use power brake pressure to a hydraulic shimmy > damper, no feedback, just break pressure applied to the damper. > > John Epplin Mk4 #467 Date: Mon, 25 Aug 1997 13:39:15 -0700 From: "LCDR James D. Newman" Organization: INFINITY Aerospace Subject: COZY: Nose Lift Hi Terry and All, >>I wrote previously:<< >>Yes (to all canards (just drop in) - that's the goal), and it will use a Lamb size (~11" diameter tire), pick up a 4 seat 2200 lb. GW canard with full gas, 4 people and baggage.<< >Terry wrote:< >Will this nose gear also work as an EZ-lift? (Lift up with passengers and fuel)< Sorry if I was not clear. Yes, 'pick up' / 'lift' a 4 seat, 2200 lb. GW, canard aircraft with full gas, 4 people and baggage. Hope this clarifies things. Infinity's Forever, JD From: Gunrider@aol.com Date: Mon, 25 Aug 1997 19:56:36 -0400 (EDT) Subject: COZY: LDG GEAR DOOR Anyone have an idea where it is better to remove material - from the fuselage or the door edge where it binds at the hinge? It appears either a 1/4" off of the door or a hole in the fuselage or some of both. I'm trying to make it as clean as possible of course. Comments please. Hugh Farrior Date: Tue, 26 Aug 1997 20:11:44 -0400 From: Jim Hocut Subject: COZY: CH 13 - Ldg light windows - HELP!!! Have been trying to fabricate ldg light windows similar to those pictured on Marc's web page. I'm using .093 "Lexan XL-1", since that's all I could get my hands on at the local home improvement stores. I built a frame to hold the lexan sheet, and heated the sheet in the oven at ~275 deg F. At this temperature I can't get the part fully formed before it cools too much to be pliable. If I subsequently go back for a second attack it looks horrible. Any hotter than the 275 degrees and it's instant bubbles in the Lexan. Seems like this discussion took place a little while ago, but in looking throught the archives and past e-mails I couldn't find a whole lot of details. Any trade secrets, specific procedures, material recommendations, etc. would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Jim Hocut jhocut@mindspring.com From: RonKidd@aol.com Date: Tue, 26 Aug 1997 21:54:02 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: COZY: CH 13 - Ldg light windows - HELP!!! Polycarbonate is very hydrascopic (holds water). We used to use it in the prosthetics industry. Prior to heating it to working temp (350 degreses F.) It must be cured first. If you put it into a heated container @ 250 degrees for 24 hours prior to forming, you can then raise it up to working temps without the trapped moisture turning to steam (the bubbles). We used to keep it in an old refrigerator with a 150 watt light bulb on all the time to slowly work out the moisture. It must be in there for a couple of weeks though. Ron Kidd N 417CZ Date: Thu, 28 Aug 1997 23:45:10 -0700 (MST) From: "Dr. Doug Ashby" Subject: COZY: Stretch-forming acrylics/ Plexiglas Jim Hocut writes: "Have been trying to fabricate ldg light windows similar to those pictured on Marc's web page." ......... ......... "Seems like this discussion took place a little while ago, but in looking throught the archives and past e-mails I couldn't find a whole lot of details. Any trade secrets, specific procedures, material recommendations, etc. would be greatly appreciated." To Jim Hocut and the Cozy Group: I posted the following info concerning stretch-forming on 6/22/97: "".....here is a tip on stretch-forming given to me by my 'masked composite friend' Tom McNeely. The technique was written up in an old issue of Sportsplane Builder by Tony Bingelis. Rather than try to shape the acrylic sheet over the male mold with oven mittens do the following: 1. Build a stretching frame with two 3/8" plywood (or something rigid) window-like 'picture frames'. Obviously the frame opening must be large enough to allow enough of the plexiglas to stretch over the mold. Depending on the mold or male plug used, it might need to be mounted on a stand to allow the stetching to be drawn beyond the bottom edge of plug since considerable downward force must be exerted to stretch the heated Plexiglas over certain forms. 2. Sandwich the Plexiglas between them with two bolts in each end. The ideas behind only two fasteners in each end was to allow the heated rubber-like Plexiglas to stretch in whatever direction it had to as it was being pulled down over the compound curves of a male plug. The minimum clamping technique also is to reduce the amount of thinning in the Plexiglas that normally results when you stretch the sheet over a sharply contoured mold. The two bolts on each end also must drilled through the Plexiglas. He says, to avoid cracking the Plexiglas, the holes for the bolts were drilled oversized with a modified drill bit that had the cutting edges (at the point) honed flat to keep from 'hogging in' (?). 3. Also, a contour restraining template is used immediately following the 'stretch' to keep the Plexiglas from pulling away from the bottom edges of the form. This is accomplished by quickly forcing a template (the actual shape of the edges of the finished lens) down over the stretched Plexiglas while it is still hot and soft. The contour restraining template must have a cut out opening duplicating the shape of the male plug with the additional clearance all around equal to the thickness of the Plexiglas used. 4. Place the frame with Plexiglas in the oven sitting up on two short 2 X 4's because the Plexiglas will sag. Set the oven for 350 degrees. The first sign that the Plexiglas is hot enough to be stretch-formed is when you see a few bubbles begin to appear in the Plexiglas near the edge of the plywood frame. You have to work quickly. Grasping the plywood stretching frame at each end with gloves and smoothly and positively force the frame down over the male plug until it is at or slightly below the bottom level of the mold. A helper can then, working quickly, force the plywood contour template down over the stretched Plexiglas causing it to hug the plug in all areas. 5. After a few minutes the frames and templates can be loosened and the Plexiglas should be allowed to gradually cool to room temperature. The final Plexiglas part can be cut away with a 3" abrasive disc to avoid cracking the lens. The heat generated along th line of cut makes the Plexiglas less brittle and less prone to crack or break. Final trimming can be done with a Dremel and fine tooth saw blades. Edges can then be smoothed with medium coarse aluminum oxide sandpaper on a smooth surface or sanding block. 6. It is suggested that while you are at it, make another replacement lens."" I'm not finished with Chapter 13 but will also attempted this myself. Hopefully this message might be of help to those (of us) who will be making a lens (or lenses) for their landing lights in the nose cone or on the wings. Also, I have purchased two aircraft landing lights (standard GE 4509, $9.98) listed in the Aircraft Spruce catalogue. Tom McNeely and I also tested the "new" GE Q4509 ($28.80) and from what we could determine, testing side by side, it wasn't any better as far as intensity or concentration of beam at short or long distances. We even preferred the shape of the projected beam of the 'standard' over the 'Q' so for the price I sent the 'Q' back. Although the 'Q' is listed as a much longer life and more concentrated beam than the 'standard'. One of the GE 4509's alone works so much better than the several halogen driving lights (including pairs) I tried from Autozone. The comparison was dramatic. If a pair will fit in the nose I may install two. Tom McNeely who has built two Long EZ's, a Defiant, and a TOO EZ (?) {it looks different from the photos he showed me} and has put the GE 4509 in the nose of a couple canards successfully and made lenses with the above method; though, he said it was still a difficult process. Doug Ashby Mark IV, Chapter 13+ From: Marc J. Zeitlin Subject: COZY: LDG GEAR DOOR (fwd) Date: Fri, 29 Aug 97 13:25:21 EDT Hugh Farrior wrote: >Anyone have an idea where it is better to remove material - from the fuselage >or the door edge where it binds at the hinge? It appears either a 1/4" off >of the door or a hole in the fuselage or some of both. As long as you don't remove structure that holds the nose-wheel in place (I assume we're talking nose area here), it shouldn't matter - do what works and looks best. I had to fiddle around with the hole and door a bit to get everything to fit while retracted and extended - I think my gear strut cover and door doohickey is wider than stock. Looks good, though. If you would have to remove structure, then obviously you should take the material off the door/cover, instead :-). -- Marc J. Zeitlin Email: marcz@an.hp.com From: Marc J. Zeitlin Subject: COZY: CH 13 - Ldg light windows - HELP!!! (fwd) Date: Fri, 29 Aug 97 13:32:50 EDT Jim Hocut wrote: >Have been trying to fabricate ldg light windows similar to those >pictured on Marc's web page. I'm using .093 "Lexan XL-1"..... >...... Any trade secrets, specific procedures, >material recommendations, etc. would be greatly appreciated. First of all, Ron Kidd's recommendations regarding Lexan notwithstanding, I'd recommend using 1/16" Plexiglas (that's what I used). It'll bend easier, doesn't have the "bubble" problem, can be reheated and rebent, and is the same material that the canopy is made of. Lexan also scratches REALLY easily - much easier than plexi. As far as trade secrets goes, I described my technique in the 1996 archives, I believe. I cut the plexi about 2" oversize, heated it on a a cookie sheet (on some fabric) in the oven to ~300 F, and then quickly transferred it to the mold (the nose cone from AeroCad) and pressed down evenly with oven mitts until it cooled and hardened. I then slowly trimmed them to shape at the same time as I trimmed the holes in the nose cone to shape. I left the plexi 1/8" oversize all around, and then beveled the edges 45 degrees (and beveled the inside edge of the nose cone holes the same) so that the plexi would sit almost perfectly flush with the outside surface of the nose cone. I then floxed them in place, and promptly scratched the crap out of one of them :-) - it'll need to be polished a bit before flying. -- Marc J. Zeitlin Email: marcz@an.hp.com From: AlWick@aol.com Date: Wed, 24 Sep 1997 09:49:51 -0400 (EDT) Subject: COZY: Inexpensive electric noselift Just happened across this. Am still looking into it (literally). Found a potential source for elect nose lift, cost me $0.00 so far. The device that powers your automated seat belt (shoulder harness) on a subaru looks like it may have some potential. It would allow full manual backup in case the elect motor fails, as the output shaft is directly connected to the input shaft. In fact the input has a hex socket ready to go. It's a worm drive unit, even includes limit switches to shut off motor when you hit full travel in either direction. Real small and light weight. My only concern is if the electric motor has enough power to lift nose. Motor is tiny. If it can lift nose it may be a little slow. Don't know the gear ratio yet. I'll see if I can hook up torque wrench to this baby and find out what it can do. I may decide to load it to failure point and verify it's failure mode. FWIW -al From: AlWick@aol.com Date: Wed, 24 Sep 1997 10:39:14 -0400 (EDT) Subject: COZY: re: inexp elect noselift addendum The elec noselift I referred to could only be used as an addition to the Brock mechanical sys. Just realized a few would mistake my posting. Anyone know if the brock sys is mechanically strong enough to lift fully loaded front end? Is it the weak link? -al by SERV05.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU (PMDF V5.1-10 #16063) with SMTP id <01IO0I02XB1K002D19@SERV05.SLAC.STANFORD.EDU> for cozy_builders@hpwarhw.an.hp.com; Wed, 24 Sep 1997 07:57:48 PDT Date: Wed, 24 Sep 1997 07:58:18 -0800 From: hrogers@SLAC.Stanford.edu (Howard Rogers) Subject: Re: COZY: re: inexp elect noselift addendum >The elec noselift I referred to could only be used as an addition to the >Brock mechanical sys. Just realized a few would mistake my posting. >Anyone know if the brock sys is mechanically strong enough to lift fully >loaded front end? In a word, no. >Is it the weak link? >-al In a word, yes. Howard Rogers Date: Wed, 24 Sep 1997 09:45:52 -0700 From: Rick Roberts Subject: Re: COZY: re: inexp elect noselift addendum AlWick@aol.com wrote: > > The elec noselift I referred to could only be used as an addition to the > Brock mechanical sys. Just realized a few would mistake my posting. > Anyone know if the brock sys is mechanically strong enough to lift fully > loaded front end? Is it the weak link? > -al Hi Al and everybody, This sounds like what I used to have prior to installing the Steve Wright Special Nose Lift. I had a worm drive motor that I got from JD Newman and made a few parts to interface to the Brock mechanism. The motor had a 1/4" allen head on the opposite side from the output. The motor didn't have adequate power to lift the nose, but could easily raise/lower the gear without manual intervention. I replaced it because I liked the other lift better. The Brock parts are definately the weak link. The gearing isn't strong enough or low enough to allow a reasonable sized motor to actually raise the nose. Rick Date: Wed, 24 Sep 1997 12:49:47 -0400 From: David Domeier Subject: Re: COZY: re: inexp elect noselift addendum Al, re "Anyone know if the brock sys is mechanically strong enough to lift fully loaded front end? Is it the weak link?" It won't work, Al. The worm gear devise is very weak - I know 'cause I taxied my Long with the devise not on the stop and when I hit the first bump the gear stripped out and down went the nose. (I would partially retract the nose gear while doing a preflight so the aircraft wouldn't tip aft - and forgot to fully extend it before climbing aboard) I've installed Steve Wright's unit. So far it works great. dd From: wilhelmson@scra.org Date: Wed, 24 Sep 1997 14:18:13 -0400 Subject: Re: COZY: re: inexp elect noselift addendum Your question: Is the Brock manuf. nose retract mech. strong enough to lift the nose? Loaded: NO! Unloaded: NO!. The forces needed to extend the nose gear with the aircraft at gross are extremely high. I calculated it once and decided that it is not practical, unless you are physically unable to lift 30 lbs. I also wonder why anyone would want to motorize the present system. The required force and time to retract is low and very reliable. Wilhelms@SCRA.com N711CZ From: RonKidd@aol.com Date: Wed, 24 Sep 1997 23:21:52 -0400 (EDT) Subject: Re: COZY: re: inexp elect noselift addendum The Brock system is definately (experience speaking) not strong enough to support a loaded front end if it is less than over center. I got into the very bad habit of cranking the nose gear down a turn or two after fueling (to pay etc) as when fully fueled and lowered into the grazing position the caps leak onto the strake leaving a blue stain. On this particular occasion, my wife and I were on the way home from Lakeland back to Ohio when we stopped in Ga for fuel (and personal de-fuel). You guesses it, we entered the plane in a hurry as there was a crowd (not unusual) looking it over asking all the usual questions. We taxiied out and hit a small bump in the tarmack and WHAM the gear stripped out dropping the nose to the ground. I rented a car and drove home. The following weekend, I drove back and replaced the rack. I have since found out that you can turn the rack over and use the other side's teeth. Nevertheless, this was a several hour repair after a total of 23 hours of road time) in less than wonderful circumstances. I personally don;t see the need for the electric nose retract. It will just cost more money, offer the potential for failure and the added weight will reduce your front seat capicity. regards, Ron Kidd N417CZ From: wilhelmson@scra.org Date: Thu, 25 Sep 1997 15:14:46 -0400 Subject: Re[2]: COZY: re: inexp elect noselift addendum Ron and others using the Brock retract. THE GOOD NEWS: The gear that looses it's teeth is made by Boston Gear and is cast iron. Boston makes a bronze gear that has the same pitch, bore and number of teeth and is twice as strong. Also the bronze gear is rated for shock loading which the cast iron is not. THE BAD NEWS: The cast iron gear has a solid face, but the bronze gear is cored out to save material. To use it two added parts are needed and a small amount of machining must be done to the gear. I did this ten years ago and I have never had a failure and I have taxied the airplane with the gear partially extended. I talked to Brock about doing this but he gave his standard answer. No changes unless approved by the designer. Wilhelms@SCRA.com N711CZ From: wkasty@ix.netcom.com Date: Fri, 26 Sep 1997 15:41:11 -0500 (CDT) Subject: COZY: Chapter 13 rodend bearings Hi Group, I'm working on the front nosewheel strut and realized I didn't have the inserts/bushings for inside the MM6 rodend bearings. After checking the archives I notices Brian DeFord had the same problem written up. One respnse referred to these insert bushings as being aluminum. Is this accurate, or is this where we use the bushing stock(4130) called out in the supplies? Are these parts available anywhere, I didn't see them in Brock's catalog. I'm lousy at reaming out steel parts! Another response mentioned that LongEZ plans changed the bolt used in this application to 5/16 instead of 1/4. Did I miss this change or didn't this get into the CozyMkIV plans? Bill Kastenholz From: AlWick@aol.com Date: Sat, 27 Sep 1997 00:50:35 -0400 (EDT) Subject: COZY: report on inexp elect nose lift I hooked the shoulder belt motor/gear assy mentioned in previous post to my car battery. Looks like it normally turns little faster than you could manually crank handle. Good. Stalled it with torque wrench. Torque wrench measures in foot/lbs. Motor stalled behond torque wrench scale. Must be less than 5 foot lbs. Clearly not enough torque to damage the Brock gear assy. So it looks likely(not conclusive!) you could use it as driver for Brock gear assy. Particularly since it allows you to operate manually if motor fails. I may end up mounting it to my gear assy, may be a nice enhancement, but clearly not comparable to the real elect nose lift. This one came from Subaru shoulder harness. I'm sure you could pick one up for less than $10. If I had inch lb torque wrench could have supplied better facts. Could have measured motor torque and handle torque. FWIW -al From: Marc J. Zeitlin Subject: COZY: Chapter 13 rodend bearings (fwd) Date: Mon, 29 Sep 97 10:19:15 EDT Bill Kastenholz writes; >....... One respnse referred to these >insert bushings as being aluminum. Is this accurate, or is this >where we use the bushing stock(4130) called out in the supplies? That was me, and in looking back in the plans it seems clear that the 3/8" x 1/4" "1015 bushing stock" listed in the chapter 13 materials list was supposed to be used for this purpose. I don't remember whether I ever received that when I got the materials from Wicks, but it was me that made the bushings from aluminum. Now that I pay more attention, I'll probably go back and make a couple more from steel to replace the aluminum ones with. >Are these parts available anywhere, I didn't see them in Brock's >catalog. I'm lousy at reaming out steel parts! Just drill them out slightly undersize (1/4" - 1/64"), and then drill them to size with a sharp 1/4" drill. I don't think Brock sells these - they're pretty easy to make with a bandsaw and drill. > Another response mentioned that LongEZ plans changed the >bolt used in this application to 5/16 instead of 1/4. Did I miss >this change or didn't this get into the CozyMkIV plans? It's certainly not in the COZY plans. I think that Stet Elliot just remembered the dimensions wrong - the bushing takes the I.D. from 3/8" to 1/4", rather than to the 5/16" he states. Can't imagine how it would hurt to use 5/16" AN hardware, but you'd have to change the I.D. of the NG-62, and use different washers on the other end of the shock. You'd still need the bushings, however - the rod ends called out in the plans DO have 3/8" I.D. -- Marc J. Zeitlin Email: marcz@an.hp.com Date: Fri, 10 Oct 1997 08:27:00 -0400 From: bil kleb Organization: NASA Langley Research Center Subject: COZY: chap 13 - finishing the canard mounts Dick Finn wrote (at the end of 96) [kleb's additions]: > The plans [chap 13, end of step 5] call for mounting > nutplates to a rectangular piece of aluminum and glassing > the assembly onto F22 to accept the bolts through the lift > tabs. The drawings [M-11] show this assembly to be made up > of a [K1000-4] nutplate mounted to a [970-4] washer. > I originally tried the washer but then realized that it could > twist under the glass when the bolt was torqued. I ended up > scrapping the washer and using the larger rectangular aluminum. has anyone else noticed this discrepancy? it appears that the rectangular aluminum bits are the way to go. i am going over to an rv-builder's house to make the canard lift-tab nutplates, so i thought that i might as well do these while i'm there... -- bil From: Marc J. Zeitlin Subject: COZY: chap 13 - finishing the canard mounts (fwd) Date: Fri, 10 Oct 97 8:57:28 EDT bil kleb wrote: >has anyone else noticed this discrepancy? it appears that >the rectangular aluminum bits are the way to go. No question. Didn't even see the M-11 discrepancy - I just went with the aluminum as called out in the plans. Works fine. -- Marc J. Zeitlin Email: marcz@an.hp.com Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 02:17:25 -0400 From: glenn murray Subject: COZY: Nose Gear Hi Guys My nose gear ratchet just collapsed on me yesterday while I was In the fuselage re-attaching the canard bolts from inside.The engine isn't installed yet ,so I guess without the counter weight at the back there wa= s too much weight on the nose gear.The teeth stripped off the brass cog. Does anyone have the part No and supplier of a stronger cog. I know this has been discussed befor but as I am way past that stage I didnt pay much attention to it. Once again your help appreciated.(All my catalogues are 3 years out of date) NG31 ia the only one I have listed. regards Glenn Murray From: "Fred I. Mahan" Subject: Re: COZY: Nose Gear Date: Wed, 15 Oct 1997 07:13:51 -0400 Glenn, assuming that only the "big" gear is damaged (not the worm "driving" gear), you can take the "big" gear off, turn it 180 degrees, and reinstall it with the previously unused teeth now engaging the worm gear. Fred in Florida ---------- From: glenn murray To: cozy builders forum Subject: COZY: Nose Gear Date: Wednesday, October 15, 1997 2:17 AM Hi Guys My nose gear ratchet just collapsed on me yesterday while I was In the fuselage re-attaching the canard bolts from inside.The engine isn't installed yet ,so I guess without the counter weight at the back there was too much weight on the nose gear.The teeth stripped off the brass cog. Does anyone have the part No and supplier of a stronger cog. I know this has been discussed befor but as I am way past that stage I didnt pay much attention to it. Once again your help appreciated.(All my catalogues are 3 years out of date) NG31 ia the only one I have listed. regards Glenn Murray ---------- From: N433DP@aol.com Date: Tue, 21 Oct 1997 23:54:05 -0400 (EDT) Subject: COZY: Brake Master cylinders Which master cylnders are better. Nat calls out Cleveland 10-35 or MT MC-1? Who carries the MT MC-1 Thanks Doug From: "norm & monda" Subject: Re: COZY: Brake Master cylinders Date: Wed, 22 Oct 1997 15:26:06 -0400 mt master cyl's are matco products Date: Wed, 22 Oct 1997 15:35:28 -0700 From: Stetson Elliott Subject: Re: COZY: Chapter 13 rodend bearings (fwd) Sorry for the delay in responding to this thread. I've been out of touch lately and have returned to over 600 email messages! > Bill Kastenholz writes; > > > Another response mentioned that LongEZ plans changed the > >bolt used in this application to 5/16 instead of 1/4. Did I miss > >this change or didn't this get into the CozyMkIV plans? > > And Marc J. Zeitlin wrote: > It's certainly not in the COZY plans. I think that Stet Elliot just > remembered the dimensions wrong - the bushing takes the I.D. from 3/8" > to > 1/4", rather than to the 5/16" he states. Can't imagine how it would > hurt to use 5/16" AN hardware, but you'd have to change the I.D. of > the > NG-62, and use different washers on the other end of the shock. You'd > > still need the bushings, however - the rod ends called out in the > plans > DO have 3/8" I.D. There was indeed a recommendation in the Canard Pusher newsletters to go with AN5 bolts at the nose gear rod ends. Below is the pertinent excerpt from a long article from CP54, pages 4 &6: "EDITOR'S NOTE: If you have a 'heavy' Long-EZ or you are on the heavy side, you would be wise to increase the AN4-15A bolt to an AN5-15A. This would require drilling and reaming the 1/4" hole in NG-3 and NG-4 to 5/16" and you would need to drill and ream the HM-6 "bushings" to fit a 5/16" bolt." Stet Elliott flyez@earthlink.net Long-EZ N321EF Date: Wed, 22 Oct 1997 19:33:57 -0700 From: "LCDR James D. Newman" Organization: INFINITY Aerospace - http://www.flash.net/~infaero Subject: COZY: Re: Brake Master cylinders Hi Doug and All, >Which master cylinders are better. Nat calls out Cleveland 10-35 or MT MC-1?< If you use the Cleveland wheels and brakes (an excellent product, but does not have enough stopping force for your plane - see archives), use the Cleveland 10-35 (1/2" bore) or the MATCO MC-5 (5/8" bore - MATCO does not make the MC-1 anymore) master brake cylinders if you are going to have vertical master brake cylinders with reservoirs built into the top - both are fine products. If you are going to have horizontal master brake cylinders like many are doing, or remote reservoirs if mounting the MC-4 vertically, use the MATCO MC-4 (5/8" bore) master brake cylinders. If you use the MATCO 3 puck wheels and brakes you should use the MC-4 or MC-5 master brake cylinders for the 3 puck brake system needs a little more volume, hence the 5/8" bore. >Who carries the MT MC-1?< ACS, Wicks, we do, and see above. HTH. Infinity's Forever, JD From: cdenk@ix.netcom.com Date: Wed, 22 Oct 1997 22:15:58 -0500 (CDT) Subject: Re: COZY: Re: Brake Master cylinders J. D. Newman writes This may be a case of engineering data not honest, but I use the Cleveland Super Duty brakes, and master cylinders (mounted horizontal), frequently fly at 1900 lbs. gross, and have had no problems stopping, steering, or anything. Home airport has taxiway at 2000 ft., and stop before that 95% of the time. Made a dead stick landing into 3000 ft., have taxied considerable distances at airports from Sarasota, Fl, to Colorado springs with temp 87 degrees and no problems. If I would have problems at a distant airport, I stand a chance of finding the right parts. Date: Wed, 22 Oct 1997 20:44:58 -0700 From: "LCDR James D. Newman" Organization: INFINITY Aerospace - http://www.flash.net/~infaero Subject: COZY: Re: Brake Master cylinders Hi Carl and All, >>J.D. Newman writes This may be a case of engineering data not honest, but I use the Cleveland Super Duty brakes, and master cylinders (mounted horizontal), frequently fly at 1900 lbs. gross, and have had no problems stopping, steering, or anything. Home airport has taxiway at 2000 ft., and stop before that 95% of the time. Made a dead stick landing into 3000 ft., have taxied considerable distances at airports from Sarasota, Fl, to Colorado springs with temp 87 degrees and no problems. I didn't say the Cleveland Master Brake Cylinders won't stop Cozy, I said the Cleveland wheels and brakes - re-read my post! This, also, is a very, very old discussion topic - see the archives and the FARs (always a good idea before sharing). Call Cleveland and they will tell you the Super Heavy Duties are not enough (already been done by other builders, but feel free). You've just never really had to get on the brakes for a maximum effort stop. Clevelands are fine until you really really need to stop now. You can taxi all the way across the country with any brake. The engineering data comes from the factories and the FARs. If your calling me dishonest, you are really cruise'n . . . Thank you for sharing? >If I would have problems at a distant airport, I stand a chance of finding the right parts.< You will have no more difficultly getting MATCO parts than Cleveland parts at a distant airport - see archives. Infinity's Forever, EAA Member EAA Technical Counselor JD EAA Flight Advisor AOPA Member Test Pilot James D. Newman, President LCDR F-14 USNR ************************************************ INFINITY Aerospace Mailing Address: P. O. Box 12275 El Cajon, CA 92022 Shipping Address: 1750 Joe Crosson Drive, D-2 El Cajon, CA 92020 (619) 448-5103 PH & FAX ************************************************ Checkout our other products, Stick Grips, Retractable Main Landing Gear and the Infinity 1 If you want unlimited Internet access for only $8.25 per month, contact JD "It is the grain of sand in your shoe, not the mountain ahead, that wears you down!" Date: Sat, 25 Oct 1997 10:09:34 -0400 From: Jim Hocut Subject: COZY: Ch 13 - Nose Gear Door Actuator I'm going to be using a nosewheel gear door and would like to hear from others as far as how they've actuated the doors. I took pictures of a Cozy at OSH (sorry - can't remember the name for credit giving) of a sytem that was quite elegant. Being mechanically challenged, if I'm going to build it elegant is out. The word for the day is simplicity. Thanks Jim Hocut jhocut@mindspring.com Date: Sat, 25 Oct 1997 20:43:20 -0400 From: Paul Burkhardt Subject: Re:COZY: Ch 13 - Nose Gear Door Actuator I constructed my door using two panels, narrower in the front than in the back. I hinged the doors to the side with standard hinge material. The hole in the fuselage is rectangular ( aside from the narrowing in the front) I placed several paper towels over the wheel assembly and then covered with plastic before glassing. The closing mechanism is just a simple spring which is located at just the right point across the path of the castor assembly. As the gear comes up it catches the spring and then closes the doors. The doors are held shut by the spring tension. Upon opening wind keeps the doors open due to the narrowness of the door opening. On the ground the spring keeps the doors pointing perpendicular The paper towels give a little breather room for tire expansion etc. It has two small humps but comforms fairly good along the fuselage. I havent tested this yet, however I got the idea from another builder and I believe I've heard of it being used by others. My concern is that the spring isnt strong enough and the doors might open in flight a little causing increased drag. Paul Burkhardt by post.larc.nasa.gov (8.8.6.1/pohub4.2) with SMTP id HAA03210 for ; Mon, 27 Oct 1997 07:34:20 -0500 (EST) Date: Mon, 27 Oct 1997 07:32:34 -0500 From: Paul Krasa Subject: Re: COZY: Ch 13 - Nose Gear Door Actuator At 10:09 10/25/97 -0400, Jim Hocut wrote: >I'm going to be using a nosewheel gear door and would like to hear from >others as far as how they've actuated the doors. The word for the day is simplicity. The best gear door I have seen is the one from way back in Central States. It is very simple with a spring between the doors. When the wheel is retracted, it contacts the spring thus closing the door. Paul Krasa Long EZ 214LP Date: Mon, 27 Oct 1997 08:43:59 -0500 From: Jim Hocut Subject: Re: COZY: Ch 13 - Nose Gear Door Actuator Paul Krasa wrote: > >The best gear door I have seen is the one from way back in Central States.... I had it brought to my attention that the April '97 issue of Central States had an article on this. Turns out this was pretty much like what others have described here, and it has some real good illustrations. Jim Hocut jhocut@mindspring.com From: Mark Beduhn Subject: COZY: Nosegear Retract Gear Date: Tue, 28 Oct 1997 15:38:55 -0600 I broke the brock gear on my nosegear retract assy today and recall that = a more durable replacement has been identified. Could someone please = send me the mfg and the part # so I can order one. =0DThanks=0D=0DMark Beduhn=0DCozy IV N494CZ=0D=0DPS In the meantime I = will rotate my current gear 180 degrees so I can keep flying. I have = 19.2 hours flown off (nearly half way there!). Date: Sat, 01 Nov 1997 17:33:01 -0800 From: "LCDR James D. Newman" Organization: INFINITY Aerospace - http://www.flash.net/~infaero Subject: COZY: Steerable Nose Wheel Hi Bruce and All, >Bruce Elkind wrote: >I'm hoping for a steerable nose wheel some day as I believe this could enhance our overall performance.< Yes it would, to all canards. We are nearing completion of the drawings for my steerable, or castering, oleo nose strut system, that will use a Lamb size (~11" diameter) tire, pick up a 4 seat 2200 lb. GW canard with full gas, 4 people and baggage, and will just drop in to the present NG-30 of all canards - that's the goal. The prototype and production run is funded. Already have test aircraft arranged. The whole system will cost about $800 to $1000+, and will weigh the same as, probably less than, the present system in vogue. I will let you all know when we are in production. Let us know ASAP if you are interested. Have already started a list. Infinity's Forever, EAA Member EAA Technical Counselor JD EAA Flight Advisor AOPA Member Test Pilot James D. Newman, President LCDR F-14 USNR ************************************************ INFINITY Aerospace Mailing Address: P. O. Box 12275 El Cajon, CA 92022 Shipping Address: 1750 Joe Crosson Drive, D-2 El Cajon, CA 92020 (619) 448-5103 PH & FAX ************************************************ Checkout our other products, Stick Grips, Retractable Main Landing Gear and the Infinity 1 If you want unlimited Internet access for only $8.25 per month, contact JD "It is the grain of sand in your shoe, not the mountain ahead, that wears you down!" by m5.boston.juno.com (queuemail) id RNF25789; Fri, 07 Nov 1997 17:53:05 EST Subject: COZY: NG53 NOSE GEAR From: mbeduhn@juno.com (Mark W Beduhn) Date: Fri, 07 Nov 1997 17:53:05 EST People, Now I am begging! Brock wants $51.50 for the flat NG53 retract gear (which I recently broke). I know that someone out there knows the diameter and pitch (better yet the Boston Gear part #) so I can replace it with a stock gear. Please help me find a better gear! The Brock gear is weak...and expensive. Thanks, Mark Beduhn Cozy IV N494CZ From: Marc J. Zeitlin Subject: COZY: NG53 NOSE GEAR (fwd) Date: Fri, 7 Nov 97 18:28:33 EST Mark Beduhn wrote: >Now I am begging! Brock wants $51.50 for the flat NG53 retract gear >(which I recently broke). I know that someone out there knows the >diameter and pitch (better yet the Boston Gear part #) so I can replace >it with a stock gear. Please help me find a better gear! The Brock gear >is weak...and expensive. Mark, how'd you ever manage to finish that airplane by yourself! :-). Just yanking your chain - here's what I've found: On the COZY MKIV plans, in Chapter 13, page 3, the NG53 gear is listed as: Boston Gear part # CD1145 (machining is required) >From a web search, looking for "Boston Gear", Boston Gear is located at: Boston Gear 14 Hayward Street Quincy, MA 02171 (617) 328-3300 Fax (617) 479-6238 In the COZY archives for this year, in the "chap_13.txt" file, Jack Wilhelmson alludes to the fact that the Brock gear is a cast iron one, and that Boston Gear sells a bronze one. Here's the quote from Jack: The cast iron gear has a solid face, but the bronze gear is cored out to save material. To use it two added parts are needed and a small amount of machining must be done to the gear. I did this ten years ago and I have never had a failure and I have taxied the airplane with the gear partially extended. I talked to Brock about doing this but he gave his standard answer. No changes unless approved by the designer. So, I'd recommend calling Boston Gear, getting the pitch and diameter of the CD1145 gear, getting the part # for the equivalent bronze gear, getting in touch with Jack to figure out what the mysterious other parts are (if they're not obvious from looking at the two different gears when you have them), modifying what you need to, and then report back to us here on exactly what you need and what you did. All of this information was available via the COZY plans, the mailing list archives and a web search engine - no magic involved. Good luck with the retrofit - let us know what the answers are. -- Marc J. Zeitlin Email: marcz@an.hp.com Date: Fri, 07 Nov 1997 22:23:14 -0500 From: "Steven D. Sharp" Organization: I'm organized - if I can only find it Subject: Re: COZY: NG53 NOSE GEAR (fwd) Marc J. Zeitlin wrote: > > Mark Beduhn wrote: For what it's worth, the BOSTON gear CD1145 (item code 63516) is a 50 tooth double thread 3.125 p.d. 3/8 bore. The bronze replacement is BOSTON number D1145 (item code 13706). The gear needs to be bored to 1/2" and the hub projection neeeds to be turned off. The gear has 6 webs that need to be filled with flox and the four screw holes have to be drilled thru the flox. Cost is about $40 - Marty Kansky can confirm. The info on the gears came from BOSTON catalog 100 page A71. I have modified 3 gears so far, one for me and 2 for fellow builders - easy stuff. As I said, for what it's worth. Steve Sharp cozyiii@earthlink.net by m5.boston.juno.com (queuemail) id HHE17370; Sun, 09 Nov 1997 07:01:51 EST Subject: Re: COZY: NG53 NOSE GEAR (fwd) From: mbeduhn@juno.com (Mark W Beduhn) Date: Sun, 09 Nov 1997 07:01:51 EST Marc Zeitlin wrote: > >Mark, how'd you ever manage to finish that airplane by yourself! :-). >Just yanking your chain - here's what I've found: > Boston Gear part # CD1145 (machining is required) C'mon Marc Give me a break! I never said I was a computer wiz. Every time I ask MajorDomo a question, He (it?) sends me back a message telling me I'm an idiot because I didn't phrase it right or something. Anyway, were not on speaking terms right now if you know what I mean. Thanks for the info, that is exactly what I needed to know! Mark Beduhn Cozy IV N494CZ - Flying (no computer on board, and MajorDomo can't have a ride) Date: Sun, 09 Nov 1997 10:17:51 -0800 From: Stetson Elliott Subject: Re: COZY: NG53 NOSE GEAR (fwd) Steven D. Sharp wrote: > The bronze replacement is BOSTON number D1145 (item code 13706). The > gear needs to be bored to 1/2" and the hub projection neeeds to be > turned off. The gear has 6 webs that need to be filled with flox and > the > four screw holes have to be drilled thru the flox. Filling the holes with flox may sound like a mickey-mouse way to modify the Boston gear, but this very method was suggested by RAF in CP38-5, so it has the blessing of the "master". -- Stet Elliott flyez@earthlink.net Long-EZ N321EF by m10.boston.juno.com (queuemail) id KDL19701; Mon, 10 Nov 1997 10:18:03 EST Subject: COZY: Re: [canard-aviators] NG53 NOSE GEAR From: jcwauford@juno.com (James C. Wauford) Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 10:18:03 EST Aircraft Spruce sells the Boston Gear @ $29.80, CD-1145, but you have to modify it by cutting off the boss, filling the webs with flox, and drilling the mounting holes. See CP # 21, page 6 for details. Jim Date: Mon, 10 Nov 1997 11:52:03 -0500 From: "Steven D. Sharp" Organization: I'm organized - if I can only find it Subject: Re: COZY: Re: [canard-aviators] NG53 NOSE GEAR James C. Wauford wrote: > > Aircraft Spruce sells the Boston Gear @ $29.80, CD-1145, but you have to > modify it by cutting off the boss, filling the webs with flox, and > drilling the mounting holes. See CP # 21, page 6 for details. > > Jim The CD 1145 is a CAST IRON gear according to the catalog Steve Sharp cozyiii@earthlink.net From: RGCardinal@aol.com Date: Thu, 20 Nov 1997 10:10:06 -0500 (EST) Subject: COZY: pitot heat masts Hello all; Was wondering if anyone, especially those already flying, unearthed a good source for heated pitot masts. I'm seeking one that is nose mountable, as per the plans. It should be a straight mast, with the heating element end that can be removed from the mounting barrel. And it should be relativly small. No need for something that one can do chin ups on. I've looked in all the normal catalogs without success and am hoping that someone might have suggestions. Thanks for the assist and happy building to all. Robert Kittler SN 589; ch 13 From: wkasty@ix.netcom.com Date: Tue, 9 Dec 1997 11:26:29 -0600 (CST) Subject: COZY: Chapter 13 Gear Doors Hi Group, I've been working on the nose gear doors described in the CSA newsletter. The article says to use flathead rivets to attach the 5 Bid doors to the hinges. Has anybody used this method? What type of rivets would this be? Would AN3 screws be a better bet? Bill Kastenholz wkasty@ix.netcom.com From: Marc J. Zeitlin Subject: COZY: Chapter 13 Gear Doors (fwd) Date: Tue, 9 Dec 97 13:29:53 EST Bill Kastenholz writes: >...... The article says >to use flathead rivets to attach the 5 Bid doors >to the hinges. Has anybody used this method? >What type of rivets would this be? Any of the rivets in the plans that are called "flush". These would be the Avex 1604 series or the Cherry BSC-44 series. >...... Would AN3 screws be a better bet? Kind of big, and you'd need nutplates. The rivets should work fine, if you can find them. -- Marc J. Zeitlin Email: marcz@an.hp.com by x14.boston.juno.com (queuemail) id QjL28546; Tue, 09 Dec 1997 16:24:47 EST Date: Tue, 9 Dec 1997 16:25:16 EST Subject: COZY: Gear Doors From: gmellen@juno.com (George J Mellen Jr.) Bill Wrote: > I've been working on the nose gear doors >described in the CSA newsletter. The article says >to use flathead rivets to attach the 5 Bid doors >to the hinges. Has anybody used this method? >What type of rivets would this be? Would AN3 screws >be a better bet? Bill, I used MS20426AD3 countersunk solid rivets. I drilled and countersunk the 5 ply glass door and riveted directly to the piano hinge. I spaced the rivets every other knuckle of the hinge. This arrangement has never flown, but appears to be very secure. George Mellen gmellen@juno.com