From: "Steve Campbell" Subject: RE: COZY: Mounting the Canard Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 15:10:22 On Mon, 25 Nov 1996 15:49:08 -0500, DFinn7971@aol.com wrote... >Hello Everyone: > >I was thinking of mixing up some flox and smearing it over the pad. After >taping the lift tab with box sealing tape I was going to remount the >canard, reset the square and incidence and clamp the tabs to the pads. >After the flox sets up I should have a nice flat surface with accurate >incidence. Actually I did this in chapter 12. I had some difficulty sanding and/or carving the sides so that the canard would fit exactly the way I wanted it. I finally put a bead of flox down on top of the sides of the fuse and on the bulkhead, wrapped the canard (where it would touch the flow) in wax paper, and seated the canard the way I wanted it. After it set, the canard fit beautifully in position. I will be interested in hearing other people's opinions on this procedure. Steve **************************************** Stephen A. Campbell Associate Professor, EE University of Minnesota ***************************************** Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 16:28:15 From: JRaerocad@gnn.com (Jeff Russell) Subject: Re: COZY: Mounting the Canard Dick Finn wrote: >Would the flox deteriorate and cause the canard to loosen? >Is this a good idea? Does anyone have a better solution? This is what I have done on all of the canard airplanes I have built. Flox will work for a compression pad or it can be used to as a filler for things that don't quite fit. AeroCad Inc. Jeff Russell 1445 Crater Lane Yadkinville, NC. 27055 phone/fax 910-961-2238 E-mail: JRaerocad@gnn.com NEW homepage address: http://www.binary.net/aerocad Date: Mon, 25 Nov 1996 15:49:08 -0500 From: DFinn7971@aol.com Subject: COZY: Mounting the Canard Hello Everyone: After building the canard/elevators I put them aside to be mounted later. Later is now here. This weekend I layed up a pad of glass on F22 with the goal of shimming it out so that the canard is square to the fuselage centerline. I also set the incidence at that time. After setting the incidence the lift tabs had a little tilt in them so it was necessary to taper the pads. Unfortunetely I didn't get it quite right. The canard is square but the incidence is a teensy bit off. Further, there appears to be some irregularities (bumps) between the lift tab and the pad. In the interest of making it a perfect fit I was thinking of mixing up some flox and smearing it over the pad. After taping the lift tab with box sealing tape I was going to remount the canard, reset the square and incidence and clamp the tabs to the pads. After the flox sets up I should have a nice flat surface with accurate incidence. As many people would consider the canard a somewhat important part (i.e. flight characteristics would be adversly affected in the event that it fell off) I thought I'd ask for opinions. Would the flox deteriorate and cause the cnaard to loosen? Is this a good idea? Does anyone hasve a better solution? Thanks for your thoughts. Dick Finn Cozy mark IV #46 DFINN7971@AOL.COM Date: Sun, 29 Dec 1996 22:57:29 -0500 From: DFinn7971@aol.com Subject: COZY: Chap. 12 -- Canard Install Experiences Hello All, reporting in with a short digest of Capter 12 (Canard Installation) experiences. A week or two back I completed the installation of my canard and would like to pass on some thoughts. (NOTE: after completing this I've found my points are not in a good logical order--Sorry) Take them for what they are worth (my $.02). 1. Like many of you I have been skipping around the chapters. For various reasons (mostly space related) I held off on the canard installation till now. As it turned out, my reasons for delay were baseless. I strongly advise doing the installation after completing the elevators. It is significantly simpler to drill the holes in the bulkheads if the nose is not in place. It can be done but it is difficult. 2. Take a lot of care in assembling the fuselage. I spent a lot of time aligning the bulkheads and sides and it really paid off here. I was able to easily level the fuselage. I talked to one fellow who never was able to get the thing level front to back and side to side. This had an adverse effect on leveling the canard and setting the incidence. 3. In floxing the alignment pegs into the longerons it is necessary to mount the canard to hold them in perfect alignment. I ended up with flox getting into the CN2 bushings. The net effect was that the bushings were pulled out of the alignment tabs when I took the canard off--they were floxed onto the alignment pegs. I used a soldering iron to heat them up and soften the flox. They then slid right off and I cleaned up the pegs and re-mounted the CN2 bushings. If I had to do it over I would have vaselined the bushings first. 4. I used a syringe to squirt the flox into the holes in the longerons when mounting the alignment pegs. Worked great! 5. After lifting the canard on and off multiple times I attached a rope loop to the ceiling and extended it down to a few inchs above one end of the canard. Whenever I need to remove the canard I just lift one end and loop the rope over it. I go to the other end and just lift the canard up and swing it out of the way. That sucker is heavy and this makes it real easy to move around. 6. After building up a glass pad on F22 for the lift tabs I found that it still wasn't "dead on". I then covered the lift tab with box sealing tape and slathered some flox on the glass pad. I mounted the canard with the level and incidence properly set. Once the flox set up I had a perfect pad. 7. The plans called for the canard being within .1 inch of the cutout area in the fuselage side. The idea was to minimize air leaks. After I got the thing mounted I found the cutout was somewhat irregular. I ended up routing out the foam on the fuselage side about 1/4" deep. I then built up a .1" layer of Duct Tape (the handy man's friend) around the bottom of the canard right over the fuselage side. With preparations complete, I mixed up some flox and generously filled in the routed out area. When I re-mounted the canard it squished out the excess flox. I cleaned it up a bit then allowed it to cure. After cure I peeled off the duct tape and ended up with a perfect .1" gap. 8. In squaring the canard I found it difficult to hold one end of the measuring tape against the firewall and the other against the end of the canard. I'm a big guy but my reach is not even close. I ended up wrapping a piece of safety wire around the top half of the firewall aligned right over the centerline. I again used Duct tape to hold the wire snug against the firewall. I was able to easily hook the end of the tape under the wire and walk it out to the end of the canard. 9. The plans call for mounting nutplates to a rectangular piece of aluminum and glassing the assembly onto F22 to accept the bolts through the lift tabs. The drawings show this assembly to be made up of a nut plate mounted to a washer. I originally tried the washer but then realized that it could twist under the glass when the bolt was torqued. I ended up scrapping the washer and using the larger rectangular aluminum. 10. I think I saw this somewhere before on the mailing list but will pass it on again. When mounting the hinge pin for the elevators it is difficult to push it through the linges. I lightly vaselined the pin and attached it to my electric drill. With some help from my wife in positioning the elevators I was able to spin the pin in with only a small amount of difficulty. 11. DON'T FORGET TO CORRECT THE TEMPLATE FOR SETTING THE INCIDENCE. Nat's reminder came just in time, I had forgotten to do it earlier. Hope this is of assistance to some of you. Dick Finn Cozy Mark IV #46 DFINN7971@AOL.COM Date: Tue, 31 Dec 1996 02:09:17 -0500 From: CozyBldr@aol.com Subject: Re: COZY: Chap. 12 -- Canard Install Experiences In a message dated 96-12-29 23:01:24 EST, Dick Finn wrote: << 7. The plans called for the canard being within .1 inch of the cutout area in the fuselage side. The idea was to minimize air leaks. After I got the thing mounted I found the cutout was somewhat irregular. I ended up routing out the foam on the fuselage side about 1/4" deep. I then built up a .1" layer of Duct Tape (the handy man's friend) around the bottom of the canard right over the fuselage side. With preparations complete, I mixed up some flox and generously filled in the routed out area. When I re-mounted the canard it squished out the excess flox. I cleaned it up a bit then allowed it to cure. After cure I peeled off the duct tape and ended up with a perfect .1" gap. >> I'm now completing the area where the canard meets the fuselage but I read the plans that the .1" gap is around the elevator torque tube. What is everyone else using as a gap between the canard and the fuselage? It seems some gap is necessary to allow for expansion but .1" sounds too big. Anyone else with an opinion? Paul Stowitts Cozy Mark IV #200 From: Marc J. Zeitlin Subject: Re: COZY: Chap. 12 -- Canard Install Experiences (fwd) Date: Tue, 31 Dec 96 9:31:39 EST Dick Finn wrote: Paul Stowitts asks: >I'm now completing the area where the canard meets the fuselage but I read >the plans that the .1" gap is around the elevator torque tube. What is >everyone else using as a gap between the canard and the fuselage? It seems >some gap is necessary to allow for expansion but .1" sounds too big. Anyone >else with an opinion? I _THINK_ Dick was referring to the TT gap. I have about 0.015" to 0.030" clearance around the canard - this should be sufficient for any thickness buildup from paint or filler. I don't remember exactly what the canard gap should be, but I seem to remember the plans saying to use a shim under the canard when positioning it to ensure that there's _some_ clearance. Around the TT, I do have about 0.1". I figure that if I get too much air coming through when it's cold, I'll put some sort of soft gasket material on the inside against the TT to seal it. -- Marc J. Zeitlin Email: marcz@an.hp.com