Date: Wed, 25 Jan 1995 11:01:43 -0500 From: SidLloyd@aol.com Subject: Re: Plans change questions >#1: I noticed that the amount of 3/4" PVC foam that's used for the >front seat back has changed from 1 sheet of 32x48 to 1.5 sheets. >However this foam isn't used anywhere else in the plane and the single >sheet seems more than adequate for the seat back. What am I missing >here? I just used one sheet and it worked fine. >#2: In newsletter #38 there is a change to the position of the hole for >nose gear tube on F22. Its I.D. was reduced from 1" to 3/4" and stated >that it should be 'off center' but didn't say how much 'off center' or >in which direction. Anyone know the answer to this? I used the Oertel EZ-Lift electric system and just put the hole where it made sense. I also but in the electic speed brake retract system which allowed me to put a map pocket console between the seats. I'm going to use verniers instead of the throttle quadrant. Sid Date: Fri, 3 Mar 95 11:56:23 EST Subject: Re: Oertel EZ-Lift Sid; You stated on Jan 25: >I used the Oertel EZ-Lift electric system and just put the hole where it made >sense. Given that you're using a lot of stuff from Jeff Russell and that he sells a similar (at least according to him) system for retracting the nose gear for less money, why did you decide to go with the Oertel system? I heard $1100 vs. $700. What do you know that I don't? :-). -- Marc J. Zeitlin E-Mail: marcz@an.hp.com Date: Fri, 3 Mar 1995 19:30:14 -0500 From: SidLloyd@aol.com Subject: Re: Oertel EZ-Lift >Given that you're using a lot of stuff from Jeff Russell and that he sells >a similar (at least according to him) system for retracting the nose gear >for less money, why did you decide to go with the Oertel system? I heard >$1100 vs. $700. What do you know that I don't? :-). It should be what do you know that I don't? And the answer is: When I bought it, Jeff hadn't done his yet. I'm sure Jeff's will be fine! Sid Date: Sun, 5 Mar 95 21:40:56 EST Subject: Re: Oertel EZ-Lift >>Given that you're using a lot of stuff from Jeff Russell and that he sells >>a similar (at least according to him) system for retracting the nose gear >>for less money, why did you decide to go with the Oertel system? I heard >>$1100 vs. $700. What do you know that I don't? :-). > >It should be what do you know that I don't? And the answer is: When I >bought it, Jeff hadn't done his yet. I'm sure Jeff's will be fine! Geez, you know, that possibility never crossed my mind. Good to hear it though. I'll contact Jeff and ask about his setup. Thanks. Now that I look back, I see that Oertel has a rigid $800 version and a shock mounted $1100 version. I'll have to ask Jeff which kind his is, so I'm comparing oats to oats. Thanks again. -- Marc J. Zeitlin E-Mail: marcz@an.hp.com Date: Sat, 25 Mar 1995 02:26:02 -0500 From: Ewestland@aol.com Subject: Nose Gear Ratchet I'm getting ready to send my $38 off for the nose gear ratchet that is highly recommended in the newsletter, but before I did, I thought I would check with you guys. Has anyone else installed one yet and are you happy with it? Thanks, Eric From: Marc J. Zeitlin Subject: Nose Gear Ratchet Date: Mon, 27 Mar 95 9:17:01 EST > >I'm getting ready to send my $38 off for the nose gear ratchet that is >highly recommended in the newsletter, but before I did, I thought I would >check with you guys. Has anyone else installed one yet and are you happy >with it? >Thanks, And as a corollary to this, if you install one of the electric lifts (with manual override), is this ratchet still a good idea (or even possible)? -- Marc J. Zeitlin E-Mail: marcz@an.hp.com Date: Mon, 27 Mar 1995 15:41:57 -0500 From: SidLloyd@aol.com Subject: Re: Nose Gear Ratchet >And as a corollary to this, if you install one of the electric lifts (with >manual override), is this ratchet still a good idea (or even possible)? I have the Oertel lift and it comes with instructions on how to build a step-down gear for manually cranking down the electric lift. Even with the 2-1 gear it still takes 5 minutes of hand cranking. I think I'll keep an electric screwdriver in the plane... Sid Date: Wed, 29 Mar 1995 18:24:11 +1000 From: allana@interconnect.com.au (allana@interconnect.com.au) Subject: Re: Nose Gear Ratchet >I'm getting ready to send my $38 off for the nose gear ratchet that is >highly recommended in the newsletter, but before I did, I thought I would >check with you guys. Has anyone else installed one yet and are you happy >with it? >Thanks, > >Eric > > Being half way around the world from just about anywhere I decided to make my own nose gear retract ratchet. It works very nicely and is a definite improvement over no ratchet at all. I think it also looks a bit neater than the socket spanner head stuck to the back of the instrument panel (but I'm biased!). What I did was buy a ring spanner ratchet for about US$15. It was a 1/2" and 9/16" from memory. I cut it in half (so you get two ratchets for the price of one) and had a friend machine a long (about 2") aluminum nut that fitted inside the spanner and had a hole bored in it for the torque tube. I then bolted the spanner onto the forward face of the panel and extended the little switch that sets it in the desired direction of rotation so that the switch alone extends through to the back of the panel and is the only part visible (other than the handle). I will put two small bolts through the "nut" torque tube and handle to set it all in position once I finally line everything up. It works very well and at the moment is the only moving part on my whole plane so I'm quite chuffed with it and show it to all and sundry. By the time I figure in my time to make it I probably hasn't saved much $$$ but I guess its all part of the satisfaction of doing it yourself. Bottom line from all the canard drivers is definitely put in a retract ratchet of some sort - without it the nose gear has a tendency to work its way down all on its own. Have fun. Date: Thu, 13 Jul 1995 11:15:02 -0700 (PDT) From: Eric Westland Subject: Nose Gear Torque Tube In the latest Central States Newsletter, there was an account of an accident the nose gear caused injury when it came back through the fuselage during impact. The writer/pilot had installed an electric nose gear lift in a Vari-EZ and warned that if the plane had more forward speed, the gear mechanism could have become a destructive missile. As Cozy builders, we have this gear, manual or electric, centered between the front seats rather than between our legs like a Long-EZ. This article got me to thinking however what could happen with the 22" tube that connects the nose gear crank handle and the worm drive. Could this possibly be driven back into the passenger compartment in an accident? If so, how could this be minimized? Presently it is all installed according to the plans, less the Curtis Smith nose gear ratchet which is on order. What I am considering doing and want to bounce off of you are two ideas: 1) Cut out the middle section of the tube and place a larger diameter tube over the ends creating a tube that will "telescope" inwards. What I don't know is just how strong to make it so it telescopes, but is not so weak as to fail during normal operation. 2) Instead of placing the u-joint between the gear mechanism and the start of the 22" tube, why not put it in the middle of the tube and support it on the nose wheel cover? This way, it is already "bent" and would probably continue to do so in case of a crash. Anyhow, there's something for you to think about next time you are stuck sitting in a boring meeting. I am not going to change anything right away, can't anyways until I get my nose gear ratchet. Later, Eric 07 Sep 1995 19:17:17 -0400 (EDT) Date: Thu, 07 Sep 1995 19:17:17 -0400 (EDT) From: TEDBARROW@delphi.com Subject: Re: Vance, etc. X-Vms-To: IN%"marcz@hpwarhw.an.hp.com" Tom Ellis is a MarkIV builder that designed a nose gear unit similar to Aerocads but you can build it for about $300. It uses the Thompson- Saginaw motor like Aerocads I believe. Vance installed it in his before Sun n Fun this year. Details are in the CS newletter Apr or Jun. It replaces the Brock screw mechanism. But uses the four bolt holes in NG 30. Tom did a great job on this! Thanks Ted From: Marc J. Zeitlin Subject: Jack's tip #2 Date: Wed, 4 Oct 95 15:07:29 EDT Jack W. writes: > 2. I noticed that when my airplane was new the ground > handling was very good. After about 200 hrs and many > landings the airplane required exccesive braking effort > to make it change direction. This was traced to the nose > gear pivot casting bushings that wear out rapidly and cause > the nose gear to have excessive side play. This results in > poor ground handling, excessive brake wear and heat. > I replaced the bushings but the problem returned. > My final solution: Redesign the NG6 casting to allow it to > take tapered roller bearings. I have had this solution on my > plane for over a year with no more problem. I have quotes > for the tooling to make these, if interested EMAIL. -- Marc J. Zeitlin Email: marcz@an.hp.com Date: Wed, 4 Oct 1995 18:21:06 -0400 From: CCady@aol.com Subject: Re: Jack's tip #2 In a message dated 95-10-04 15:10:34 EDT, you write: >: Redesign the NG6 casting to allow it to >> take tapered roller bearings. I have had this solution on my >> plane for over a year with no more problem. I have quotes >> for the tooling to make these, if interested EMAIL. > > Does this replace the standard Brock NG-6 for the Long-Ez or Cozy? I have a E-Racer with the Long-Ez NG-6. Also I assume you can still use the Davenport shimmy damper setup? I might be interested if the price is not too high. But that never stopped me in the past so who know? :-) Cliff in Tampa Date: Mon, 23 Oct 1995 17:39:45 -0700 (PDT) From: Eric Westland Subject: Nose Gear Ratchet Forgive me for repeating this, but for the dozens of you that are new, you want to order Curtis Smith's nose gear ratchet that is mentioned frequently in the newsletters. Curtis wrote me as well as others that demand no longer justifies making the part anymore, but that if he gets 50 orders, he will make one more run. He charges $40 for everything and while you may be able to make one yourself, your time would be better spent having him do it. Info is in the newsletter, so if you are at all interested, I would get your check into the mail (he wil not cash it until production starts). Eric Date: Mon, 30 Oct 1995 00:26:35 -0500 From: COZYMK4@aol.com Subject: Brake Cylinder Chokes Mark 4 plans #90 is progressing well. I have gotten down to some serious building in the past one year. I have the plane on its wheels, the spar is perfect, and I finished the canard mounting per chapter 13, page 7 as of today. I am waiting on parts to complete the nose. The right wing foam is cut and micro / assembled in its jig and the shear web for that wing will be built in the next couple of days. The master brake cylinder mountings has been one of those hard areas for me since I don't do metal well especially since I don't have the tools for it. The drawing of the master cylinder choke that stradles the brake arm (Chapter 13, page 9, Figure 41) shows that it is 2 inches long, but the ones supplied with the Cleveland brakes are only 7/8 inches long. The choke slot is only 1/2 inch, which doesn't allow enough area for the brake arm to swing. Wick's had a forked rod end which has a long enough slot but is internal treaded for 1/4 inch - 28, rather than the 5/16 - 24 that would fit the Cleveland plunger rod. When I called Nat, he said that he hadn't recieved any calls on this problem and really didn't remember what he had done. He stated that many diffent arrangments are used and that he probably just had someone make his for him. He said it would be OK to improvise many different ways. I went to Van White for help. He is the originator of EAA chapter #19 here in Lubbock, TX, and has build and refurbished dozens of airplanes. We used his metal lathe on a 1/2 O.D. rod to hollw it out and tap the treads, and then a mill to cut the slot. My HARD job at home was to drill the holes in the tip. It seems to be perfect. Did anyone have a better idea? I reeaallyy don't think that I could do a whole metal airplane. Fiberglass is sooo much easier for me. I know that I am biased, but... I had the same canard problem, but with judicious sanding, I was able to get good canard travel and appearance. I thought that I had messed up on the fish-tail. Date: Mon, 30 Oct 1995 21:59:43 -0500 From: Danky01@aol.com Subject: Re: Brake Cylinder Chokes In a message dated 95-10-30 00:31:51 EST, COZYMK4 writes: >The master brake cylinder mountings has been one of those hard areas for me >since I don't do metal well especially since I don't have the tools for it. > The drawing of the master cylinder choke that stradles the brake arm >(Chapter 13, page 9, Figure 41) shows that it is 2 inches long, but the ones >supplied with the Cleveland brakes are only 7/8 inches long. The choke slot >is only 1/2 inch, which doesn't allow enough area for the brake arm to swing. Yes I had the same problem on mine. I had a local builder machine up some new ones. The new ones looked much the same as shown in figure 41. >When I called Nat, he said that he hadn't recieved >any calls on this problem and really didn't remember what he had done. This is a canned answer when Nat does not want to be bothered talking to you. > Did anyone have a better idea? Sounds like you got it covered to me. Good luck on your project. Kyle Dansie Cozy IV #86 Date: Thu, 16 Nov 1995 19:07:39 -0500 From: Marcnadine@aol.com Subject: Electric Nose Lift I started working on the Electric Nose Lift that Vance Atkinson designed and is now using in this Cozy. The April issue of The Central States newsletter had a full set of plans and instructions for puting the unit together. I have located most of the parts required to make the unit but am finding the machined parts a little expensive to have made in a Machine Shop. I was wondering if anyone else is working on this and is doing a better job at producing the machined parts. The unit is really nice. It has the power to lift one or more people in the front seats, the only weak point being the gear strut itself. I received a responce from Vance last week and he said he has over 100 cycles on the now and is working great. The unit also has a backup hand crank, just in case. The total cost should not be to much more than the system you can get from Brock. I think the unit can be a real back saver. When I was at the Porteville Cozy Fly-in resently I was supprised how heavy the nose is, and found It very hard to lift. J.D. at Infinity Aerospace has a $50 motor unit that attached to the current Brock system, but will only lift the nose with help. Marc N425CZ Date: Sun, 19 Nov 1995 16:43:37 -0500 From: COZYMK4@aol.com Subject: Rudder Pedal Movement I need some help from builders or fliers about the rudder pedals. I am working on the wings and rudder pedals at the same time, but the brakes are giving me some trouble. How far do the rudder pedals move in degrees or inches? I need to know so that I can adjust the brake cylinder throw and mount them in the best position. Also, on chpater 13, page 8, fig. 37, the 5/8" OD metal tube is only 1/4 inch from NG-30. But to get them apart from the hinge point bolt, I found out too late that you need at least a 1 inch clearance from NG-30 to pull the tube loose from the rudder pedal so that I can place the fiberglass reinforcement over the rudder pivot blocks. Now I have to saw the tubes off shorter while in the plane, or else break me perfect " :-)" 5 minute epoxy job mounting the rivet plate. Any advise, criticism, jokes would be appreciated! Kevin From: Marc J. Zeitlin Subject: MkIV nose fabrication (fwd) Date: Tue, 21 Nov 95 11:45:47 EST Ken Miller (not a mailing list member) writes: Chris Scida and I just finished contouring his canopy and nose section. I devised this method on my Long and it worked well for the MkIV, and I thought I would pass it on. Chris had already glassed his nose section per plans. when we foamed in the canopy rails and front cover, we realized that the transition area just in front to the canard would not look too good. The angles were wrong. This is what makes the Cozy and MKIV noses look boxy and flat, in most cases I've seen. What we did was de-skin the sides of the nose from F22 forward to the prefab nose cap, vertically from the bottom to the nose door. Next we foamed in the area normally occupied by the canard, and added foam on top of the nose door area to give the whole thing more height. We used pour in place foam instead of micro to bond the foam pieces. We then carved the whole thing to a nice, rounded shape. The canard cover is cut off after glassing, and hollowed to fit the canard. Use pour in place to attach it to the canard later. A better way to do it would be to glass only the bottom of the nose and leave the sides, top, canard cover, and canopy rails to be shaped and glassed at once. I would have added another 6" or so to the length of the nose to make it more pleasing, but that's me. If this explaination is not clear, just send me a note and I'll try to clarify. with SMTP (MailShare 1.0b8); Mon, 27 Nov 1995 20:39:30 -0600 From: "Daryl H. Lueck" "'cozy_builders@hpwarhw.an.hp.com'" Subject: RE: Rudder Pedal Movement Date: Mon, 27 Nov 1995 19:25:47 -0000 I have just received my quick build wing kits from AeroCad and they state that the rudder pedals should move about 5 1/2". Just a rough estimate. I'll measure the movement on my pedals as soon as I flip the plane over. I'm installing gear doors now and it's tough to get inside to measure. Daryl Date: Sun, 3 Dec 1995 08:17:14 -0500 From: KSPREUER@aol.com Subject: Re: Rudder Pedal Movement In a message dated 95-11-27 20:45:51 EST, you write: >I have just received my quick build wing kits from AeroCad and they state >that the rudder pedals should move about 5 1/2". Just a rough estimate. >I'll measure the movement on my pedals as soon as I flip the plane over. I'm >installing gear doors now and it's tough to get inside to measure. > > Daryl I checked in the owners manual for the original Cozy. It gives the travel for both the original and "optional high performance" rudders. The Mark IV uses the high performance rudders. It is measured at the bottom of the rudder at the trailing edge. This is the point that is furthest from the hinge line. It is 4.25" + or - .25". It is possible that the Mark IV is different but I doubt it. I don't have the Mark IV manual yet. Date: Mon, 4 Dec 1995 08:38:12 -0500 From: Phillip.Johnson@Lockheed.on.ca (Phillip Johnson) Subject: Re: Rudder Pedal Movement Keith Spreuer writes: > I checked in the owners manual for the original Cozy. It gives the > travel for both the original and "optional high performance" > rudders. The Mark IV uses the high performance rudders. It is > measured at the bottom of the rudder at the trailing edge. This is > the point that is furthest from the hinge line. It is 4.25" + or - > .25". It is possible that the Mark IV is different but I doubt it. > I don't have the Mark IV manual yet. I checked my POH for the MK IV this morning and it says 4.25" +/- 0.25", so I guess it's the same as the MK III. Phillip Johnson From: Marc J. Zeitlin Subject: Re: Rudder Pedal Movement (fwd) Date: Mon, 4 Dec 95 8:51:22 EST Phillip Johnson; > Keith Spreuer writes: > > > I checked in the owners manual for the original Cozy........... > > I checked my POH for the MK IV this morning and it says 4.25" +/- > 0.25", so I guess it's the same as the MK III. Unless I'm nuts (which I might be), the original question (and the still extant title of this thread) is "Rudder Pedal Movement", not "Rudder Movement". The RUDDER moves ~5"; what is the PEDAL motion? I visited Bob Misterka in Grafton (1/2 hr. from my house) yesterday, and looked at his pedals (among other things). There was about 3/4" of motion of the rudder pedals before they started to actuate the brakes. I didn't actuate the brakes, so I don't know how much they might move them - maybe Bob (or someone else with working pedals) can comment? -- _______________________________________________________________________ / Marc J. Zeitlin Email: marcz@an.hp.com \ | Patient Monitoring Division (PMD) HP Telnet: 1-659-3421 | | Hewlett Packard Voice: 1-508-659-3421 | | 3000 Minuteman Road Fax: 1-508-685-5371 | | Andover, Ma. 01810-1099 | | Mail Stop: MS-460 WWW: http://www.ultranet.com/~marcz/ | |_____________________ http://www-msy-me.an.hp.com/~marcz/ | | (c) copyright 1995 \ (HP Internal ONLY) | \______________________\________________________________________________/ From: "Dewey Davis" Date: Mon, 4 Dec 1995 09:45:55 -0500 "Re: Rudder Pedal Movement (fwd)" (Dec 4, 8:51) Subject: Re: Rudder Pedal Movement (fwd) On Dec 4, 8:51, Marc J. Zeitlin wrote: > Subject: Re: Rudder Pedal Movement (fwd) > Phillip Johnson; > > > Keith Spreuer writes: > > > > > I checked in the owners manual for the original Cozy........... > > > > I checked my POH for the MK IV this morning and it says 4.25" +/- > > 0.25", so I guess it's the same as the MK III. > > Unless I'm nuts (which I might be), the original question (and the still > extant title of this thread) is "Rudder Pedal Movement", not "Rudder > Movement". The RUDDER moves ~5"; what is the PEDAL motion? > > I visited Bob Misterka in Grafton (1/2 hr. from my house) yesterday, and > looked at his pedals (among other things). There was about 3/4" of > motion of the rudder pedals before they started to actuate the brakes. > I didn't actuate the brakes, so I don't know how much they might move > them - maybe Bob (or someone else with working pedals) can comment? I don't know if the three place is significantly different than the Mark IV. I started to reply to the original request a few days ago but declined since there might be some differences and I don't have my notes here with all the measurements I made originally. But since the issue is still open, here goes. I agree with the builder that this is a non-trivial problem. I remember wrestling with it for awhile on my own airplane. The constraints are; 1) The rudders must be no more than full deflection when the brakes are mashed down hard (We don't want any winglet stalls. That will cause a pretty wild ride) 2) There should be a significant rudder deflection before any brake action so that we can use the rudders for control and minimize takeoff distance. Most people mount the master cylinder actuator about halfway up the rudder pedal and the rudder cable near the top of the rudder pedal. The brakes should be very firm with about 3/4" piston movement with a well bled brake system and good pads, etc. But they can get mushy and take more than that if they wear and if air gets in the system. If you use the outside bellhorns on the rudder, I think you will need about four inches of cable pull to fully deploy the rudders to spec. If you don't have the wings built, you will have a hard time measuring this, and I don't remember my own measurements precisely. I have the numbers at home. I'll look it up to verify this, but I think it is about 4 inches. That means that the rudder pedal moves a little less than two inches at the master cylinder attach point, which means that there needs to be about an inch of free travel in the slot before the brakes are actuated. For what it is worth, the brakes 'feel' like they get actuated about halfway through the pedal motion from no defection to full deflection, and the total deflection 'feels' about 4 inches at the top of the pedal. I know this isn't the precise answer you were looking for. I have the real numbers at home in my builder's log. I'll post them tomorrow if no one else has the answer before then. Dewey (Smail3.1.28.1 #7) id m0tMesq-000Ue9C; Mon, 4 Dec 95 09:40 PST (Smail3.1.28.1 #2) id m0tMen8-000qE4C; Mon, 4 Dec 95 09:35 PST Date: Mon, 04 Dec 95 10:30:00 PST From: Brian DeFord Subject: Nose gear mechanism info I have noted in Nat's newsletter that he recommends a nose gear mechanism from Curtis Smith highly (a must have). Can anyone give some insight into what this is and is it an honest-to-goodness must have? I noticed in the archives that he may not be making any until he gets a large enough number of orders. Thanks, Brian DeFord Date: Tue, 05 Dec 95 08:04:27 EST From: MISTER@neesnet.com Subject: Re: Nose gear mechanism info Brian Deford writes: >>I have noted in Nat's newsletter that he recommends a nose gear mechanism from Curtis Smith highly (a must have). Can anyone give some insight into what this is and is it an honest-to-goodness must have? << Without some sort of detent arrangement, vibration will tend to jiggle the works and start the nose gear coming down by itself. What some builders have done is install a modified ratchet handle to provide an up and down locking mechanism. Curtis Smith takes a stock 1/4" (I believe) Craftsman ratchet, cuts off the handle and drills the appropriate sized hole in the 1/4" drive part to allow the crank tube to be inserted and pinned in place. One could do this work but there are hardened steel pieces which must be drilled. This can be tough to do. TO operate the nose gear you must first flip the little ratchet toggle to the proper side then crank your gear up or down. I have one of Smith's units on my 3 place. It was easy to install and works well. Since mine hasn't flown yet, I can't tell you about it's longevity, but it's quite rugged and should last a long time. My recommendation would be to get it from him rather than make your own. Bob Misterka N342RM From: "Dewey Davis" Date: Tue, 5 Dec 1995 08:18:33 -0500 "Nose gear mechanism info" (Dec 4, 10:30) Subject: Re: Nose gear mechanism info On Dec 4, 10:30, Brian DeFord wrote: > Subject: Nose gear mechanism info > I have noted in Nat's newsletter that he recommends a nose gear mechanism > from Curtis Smith highly (a must have). Can anyone give some insight into > what this is and is it an honest-to-goodness must have? I noticed in the > archives that he may not be making any until he gets a large enough number > of orders. > > Thanks, > Brian DeFord >-- End of excerpt from Brian DeFord If you don't get this mechanism you will need to build something else that serves the same function, which is to keep the nose gear from retracting inadvertently. On a bouncy runway, there is a fair chance of jostling the gear enough to have it go over center and retract at a most inconvenient time. I built my own out of a 1/4" drive craftsman socket wrench head. It works great, but if I had to do it over again, I would just buy it. I consumed two cobalt drill bits while building my own. That Craftsman steel is HARD. Dewey Date: Tue, 5 Dec 1995 10:25:32 -0500 From: RonKidd@aol.com Subject: Re: Nose gear mechanism info The must have is a Craftsman 3/8" ratchet head which has the handle removed. The ratchet body is drilled so the NG shaft can feed thru the head ( the shaft is pinned inside to the ratchet gear). The head is epoxied into the panel. When you engage the rachet switch it allows the NG crank to turn in only one direction. This keeps the NG mech. from creeping down in flight. Nat (on the orig. Cozy 3) had a rubber band from the NG crank to some post on the panel to do the same thing. VERY TACKY| The gear inside has been hardened by Smith, so it is well worth the money. Mine has worked flawlessly for 500 hours and will probably outlast the rest of the bird! Ron Date: Tue, 05 Dec 95 12:22:42 EST From: MISTER@neesnet.com Subject: RE:Nose Gear Mechanism Info >>Lee Devlin asks: Does the ratchet take the place of the crank/knob? If so, why is it better, because it has a longer moment arm?<< No, the rachet serves only as an up or down locking device for the mechanism. It is used to hold the crank in the full up or full down position and won't allow the mechanism to creep. The handle is cut off of the rachet and the remainder of the assembly is floxed or microed into the panel right behind the crank. It's just a neat (clever) way to do the job. Bob Misterka N342RM Date: Thu, 7 Dec 1995 22:48:13 -0500 From: CozyBldr@aol.com Subject: Rudder Pedals I have decided to attempt to build the rudder pedals (you know, the "educational" part of the building process) but I have run into a problem. The 1/2" x 1/2" x .065" 4130 steel is no longer available. I'm looking at using the .049" 4130 but I don't feel that thickness will give me enough material to tap. I thought I might weld nuts on the outside at each hole location instead. Does this sound reasonable or should I just give in and buy Brock's. I talked to Jeff at Aerocad but he's having a tough time finding someone to make his pedals. Any suggestions? Paul Stowitts Date: Sun, 10 Dec 1995 23:49:31 -0500 From: KSPREUER@aol.com Subject: Re: Rudder Pedals On the 3 place I had this type brake set up using these tube sizes. I found that there was considerable springyness from the co-pilot side. I would suggest going to the next size larger in diameter with the .065 wall thickness. From: "Dewey Davis" Date: Mon, 11 Dec 1995 09:13:54 -0500 Subject: Rudder Pedals On the subject of rudder pedal rotation: I measured my own and found that they rotate about 14 degrees before the master cylinder begins to actuate, and about 4 degrees further until the brakes are firm, for a total of 18 degrees. I also measured the rudder deflection vs cable pull and found a 4 to 1 ratio, i.e., the BOTTOM of the rudder moves 4 inches away from the winglet for every inch of cable pull. The rudder cable attach point is 6 inches from the rudder pedal pivot. So the rudder deflection at brakes firm is 4*6*sin18=7.42 inches. I can't remember whether the plans specify the rudder deflection from the top or the bottom of the rudder. If you measure from the top, then the equation above will have to modified accordingly. Dewey Date: Wed, 13 Dec 1995 22:49:16 -0500 From: Marcnadine@aol.com Subject: Heated Pitot Tubes in Cozy I'm working on the nose at this time and considering using a Heated Pitot. Has anyone installed one? Has is worked out? Aircraft Spruce sells a straght design with static build-in. Marc N425CZ