From: "The Wilenius Family" Subject: Fw: COZY: Holding layups in place with stretch plastic Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2000 17:37:38 -0500 I hadn't thought of using plastic wrap but I did use vapour barrier with the same effect. It's sort of like poor man's vacuum bagging in that it pushes down on the glassed area. I tried this on my IP with good success. What I did was staple the 4mil plastic vapour barrier to my table on one side of the IP and then stretch it across to the other side and staple it there. My anecdotal evidence was that, after applying epoxy in the quantity that I usually do I seemed to get more running off the part during the hairdryer / squeegee phase. I've only done this once but I certainly intend to try it again wherever it seems practical. regards, Dave Wilenius Plans #796 / Chapter 4 ----- Original Message ----- From: Muzzy Norman E To: Sent: Friday, January 14, 2000 4:56 PM Subject: COZY: Holding layups in place with stretch plastic > Just wanted to pass on a trick that I found. > > When I patched the spots where the nails were bondoed to the strut, I put on > the BID, then peelply, then wrapped the whole works with the clingy strecthy > plastic that they use for holding things together on pallets. I bought it > at a lumberyard. > > I just put the second 4 UNI layup on the center section (chapter 14), and > did the same thing to keep the glass tight against the spar. Work the peel > ply down tight, then wrap the entire spar from one end to the other with the > stretchy film. My wife pulled the peerl ply snug so as to not wrap any > wrinkled peel ply into the layup. When you come around the far side, you > need to put extra tension on the film, lay it down, then relax the tension. > That allows the film to pull the peel ply extra snug. > > When it is all done, there is nice even pressure on the glass to keep it in > contact with the spar. > > I have also used this plastic to wrap pieces of foam to use as clamping > blocks. It releases very well. > > I will post some pictures to my website over the weekend. > > Regards- > Norm Muzzy > Plans #750, Chapters 4-9 plus 14 complete, time to do some hotwiring! > http://home.forbin.com/muzzy/cozyweb From: Muzzy Norman E Subject: COZY: Chapter 10, 14, 19 Leveling Spar Tape in trough Date: Fri, 4 Feb 2000 09:27:56 -0600 The plans talk about cutting the bundles at an angle to avoid a bump or stairstep in the sparcap. I tried cutting at angles, trimming to different lengths, and it was a mess. Then I figured out an easier way to distribute the glass threads in the trough. Lay the tape in the trough and smooth it out. There should be enough resin from the previous layer to help tack it down. Remove the red thread and the cross stitching. Now, at one end, pull about one third of the bundles an inch or so towards the end. Go to the other end, pull a similar amount towards the other end. By varying where you stop with the bundle, you distribute the threads at both ends. Once you have the bundles distributed and straightened, you can wet them out, squeegee, and move to the next layer. I found that this process virtually eliminates any stairsteps. Regards- Norm Muzzy Chapters 4-10 &14 complete, elevators ready to skin... http://home.forbin.com/muzzy/cozyweb Date: Wed, 3 May 2000 17:32:10 -0400 (EDT) From: Dana Hill Subject: COZY: Layup strength General question, As far as carrying a point source (pull-out)load such as a seatbelt hardpoint, which layup is stronger, (example: the front seat shoulder harness anchors) a. applying the local UNI strips first then the overall BID over the shoulder rest foam, vs. b. applying the BID overall first and then the UNI strips maybe not significant difference? After all the reading I've done on composite construction/cozy archives, still don't have a feel for the answer to this. Thanks, D. Hill CZ IV #676